Sunny Burger 16 #1 Posted August 24 Hello, I went to unwind this evening by mowing my back 40 and my wheel horse 312-8 classic wouldn't start. Popped the hood and this wire harness disintegrated upon touch. Am I correct in assuming this is connected to my PTO lever somehow, and my motor won't start unless my pto os "off?" Any suggestions on a repair? Thanks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,664 #2 Posted August 25 These diagrams should help. When one switch makes a connection the other switch breaks a connection. The wiring is likely OK. It is the wire holders that have failed and these were still available from Toro last time I checked. The terminals themselves can be removed from the holders and inserted in new. If you need help on how to change them let us know. Connector body https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-111498/ 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,394 #3 Posted August 25 @Sunny Burger staring right at you , see it ? rusty PTO lever end , rusty cotter pin , thats the starting point on making the pto lever set up work seamlessly , would get some penetrating oil going , then aerosol red grease , you can probably stack 3/8 " of flat washers and lube to make that solid / smooth , lever should be snug to side of dash siding . have also added a heim joint to the threaded rod end , with an over cut to 3/8x 24 die nut , heim joint screws right on , eliminates the sloppy original set up . this is what you want , gold mine for improvement , yo are right there .pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,621 #4 Posted August 25 37 minutes ago, Sunny Burger said: Am I correct in assuming this is connected to my PTO lever somehow, and my motor won't start unless my pto os "off?" Unfortunately the plastic connection holders do become brittle over time. If you have as multi meter you can find out which half of the stacked switches is closed with the PTO OFF and connect the purple and tan wires to those terminals. The Orange and dark Blue wires will, go to the half that is open with the PTO OFF. Put some tape around them to protect from shorting out and then when you inish mowing call TORO for new connector sleeves. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,598 #5 Posted August 25 2 hours ago, Sunny Burger said: Hello, I went to unwind this evening by mowing my back 40 and my wheel horse 312-8 classic wouldn't start. Popped the hood and this wire harness disintegrated upon touch. Am I correct in assuming this is connected to my PTO lever somehow, and my motor won't start unless my pto os "off?" Any suggestions on a repair? Thanks. This is how the wiring is connected on my 416. Colors are slightly different but hopefully may help you. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sunny Burger 16 #6 Posted August 25 11 hours ago, gwest_ca said: These diagrams should help. When one switch makes a connection the other switch breaks a connection. The wiring is likely OK. It is the wire holders that have failed and these were still available from Toro last time I checked. The terminals themselves can be removed from the holders and inserted in new. If you need help on how to change them let us know. Connector body https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-111498/ Some of the metal clips have lived their best life and are no longer usable. I'm guessing I need to get some wire clips and learn how to solder? Do I really need the connector body or can I just slip the wires witn new connectors back on the switch? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gasaholic 333 #7 Posted August 25 8 minutes ago, Sunny Burger said: Some of the metal clips have lived their best life and are no longer usable. I'm guessing I need to get some wire clips and learn how to solder? Do I really need the connector body or can I just slip the wires witn new connectors back on the switch? Thanks. Your metal clips, are also known as Packard Terminals - Ther are available from some places such as McMaster-Carr , however they are the uninsulated terminal type and they do need a specialized crimping tool to crimp them properly on bright, shiny bare copper wire. The connector body's primary purpose is to provide insulation and wire organization - keeps terminals connected to the right pins of the switch, and insulates them from each other and external contact. you CAN wire things up without the connector bodies with plain old insulated solderless terminals, however you also need to ensure the terminal ends (female spade) are well insulated (You can sometimes find them with fully insulated ends, though, or use shrink tubing after crimping them in place) Plus without the stabilization of the connector body , they will tend to fail more often due to being able to move independently and shudder/shake around on switch pins and wear out prematurely. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,621 #8 Posted August 25 https://www.delcity.net/store/wire-connectors-quick-splices/packard-56-series-electrical-connectors/female-terminals/ 13 minutes ago, Sunny Burger said: Do I really need the connector body or can I just slip the wires witn new connectors back on the switch? You can replace the old connectors with new ones, they are a Packard 56 connector. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,394 #9 Posted August 25 @Sunny Burger realise my suggestions are not specific to your issue, but the commonality of issues , sure are ! what I have done is to correct / improve original issue , then go back and make the transition. removing a repetitive problem , has turned into , a regular thing for me . changes have been fault free , and also easier to use . my main hint to ideas , is to study INTENDED FUNCTION . then enhance that ! sloppy lever , connection ? firm up , with washers , enhance every stage of intended engagement. example is original , TRUNION CONNECTION . does not like any ANGULAR CHANGES , FIX ? tried a related HEIM JOINT , THE 360 , ENGAGEMENT SMOOTHNESS , ELIMINATES THE ISSUE . available in both open end and bolt stud , screw on , also very durable , add a drop of hydraulic oil , to the ball swivel , and its effortlessly smooth / easy . I also REROUTE WIRING , and cable wrap them , eliminate tight bends , and heat . good luck , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sunny Burger 16 #10 Posted September 1 OK, I have made a bit of progress. My WH was built in 1995. It is a 312-8. YGT 264-6. Model # 72042. Serial # 5900409. I ordered some packard 56 terminals - two sizes because I am unsure of the current wire gauge. I also ordered some crimpers. I got out my multimeter (not much experience with that particular tool) and with the PTO lever engaged (meaning my mower is cutting grass), this circuit is open (multimeter beeps): When my PTO lever is disengaged (my mower is not doing anything), this circuit is open (multimeter beeping): The top switch is silent no matter the position of the PTO lever. RepairClinic.com says the 111498 connector body does not fit my mower. I think they are lying to me. It looks like the right fit. Can anyone confirm? (Repair clinic is half the price) Also, what gauge wires am I working with? As always, thank you for all the help, I appreciate this site and this set of humans greatly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,664 #11 Posted September 2 9 hours ago, Sunny Burger said: OK, I have made a bit of progress. My WH was built in 1995. It is a 312-8. YGT 264-6. Model # 72042. Serial # 5900409. How many tractors do you have? A 312-8 is not a 264-6 which is what a model 72042 is. Two totally different tractors. Your switches look like they are from a 312-8. This is the pto switch for the 264-6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sunny Burger 16 #12 Posted September 2 I was having a little trouble myself, figuring this stuff out, since this was the original paperwork. 14 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: How many tractors do you have? A 312-8 is not a 264-6 which is what a model 72042 is. Two totally different tractors. Your switches look like they are from a 312-8. This is the pto switch for the 264-6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,664 #13 Posted September 2 Guess that is why the Repair Clinic said it is the wrong part. It is wrong for a 264-6 model 72042. Just a wild guess but use tractor model number 31-12K801 for a 1990 312-8. Your tractor is not older than that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,621 #14 Posted September 2 19 hours ago, Sunny Burger said: with the PTO lever engaged (meaning my mower is cutting grass), this circuit is open (multimeter beeps): The beeping tells you there is continuity ( power will be able to go through the switch) meaning the switch is closed, no beeping is open. 9 hours ago, Sunny Burger said: was having a little trouble myself, figuring this stuff out, since this was the original paperwork. Is your engine's crankshaft vertical or horizontal? The 312 would be horizontal and the 264 would be vertical. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,664 #15 Posted September 6 If you post all the numbers off the engine ID decal we may be able to determine the exact model number of the 312 tractor. Does it have a hydro transmission or an 8-speed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
