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John c

Blade Hub ?

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John c
Posted (edited)

Anybody familiar with this style blade hub >

 

It looks like it has/is splined to the spindle shaft. Any pointers on removing it, my first thoughts would be a 3 jaw puller some heat and penetrating oil

 

 

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Edited by John c
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nylyon

That is all one piece, and is removed by removing the pulley from the top.  Once the pully is removed the entire shaft (the large hex on down) comes out of the bearings pretty easily.  Tough part, usually, is getting the pulley off on the top.  If it’s the ¾” shaft, those are keyed and come out pretty easily, the metric ones can be very difficult.

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John c

Thank you Karl........The pulleys are 3/4" with the keyway and in pretty bad shape where the belt held moisture on them.  

20250813_110753.jpg.0de0b83a03baa70769f3d79c4f10dbbc.jpg

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nylyon

Pop the pulley off, careful not to bend the pulley.  Once that is off a very light tap and that shaft will slide out of the bearings.  On the bottom side there is a spring clip, you can remove that, bang our the bottom bearing, then the top can be banged out as well.

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peter lena

@JOHN C.  thats easy , get 2 wonder bars  ,slide  one , with curved bottom edge , right on top of  deck to spindle bolt ,and another one just opposed  same way penetrating oil  , push bars away from each other , lift right off . the snug fit of the bar right up against the center of the spindle , gives you a perfect easy leverage point . no pulley damage at all . if you are doing the bearings , and you should , use lucas x tra hd green chassis grease , clean out original  grease  , even in new bearings , walmart  5$  extreme temp 550  flash point , polyurea rated , done all my decks , no bearing whine , also do the related mule drive bearings . that way all rotational  deck bearings  are done , you can also do the  pto cone bearings  inner needle , minimum grease , outer sealed bearing , napa . get back to on a  added pulley for the back of deck belt  , take the bounce out of it , give me a shout , I know where you are , decks are cake . pete   

,  

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JoeM
13 hours ago, John c said:

pretty bad shape where the belt held moisture on them.

I have saved a few of the rusted ones using a flap disc on a 4 1/2 grinder. With the spindle out of the deck in a vise I just allow the pulley to spin while holding the wheel on the v surfaces. holding it on and off alternating sides. sometimes just a simple wire wheel will do the job as well. 

After it is cleaned up if there are groves worn in belt surface of the pulley, pretty much is not going to work well and needs replaced.

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peter lena

@John c  perfect  lift off  pulley picture , 2 wonder bars , short curled end , will just slide on bolt top under pulley , also make sure  bar end is tight up against the  pulley hub ? strongest part of pulley , and solid leverage advantage . done this a number of times . another thing I do is to detail  function , do a grease , change out , eliminate  bearing whine , also add a 3"  flat idler pulley , on the back side of  the spindle pulley belt ?  long unsupported belt bounce , helps bearing failure ,   belt push back , once I started gaining  gaining on details , just kept going .  IMG_0352 (1).JPG

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John c

Pete,  Do you have a picture of the added pulley you're talking about

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John c

One of my existing pulleys is too far gone to be reused. Best I can find the correct part number for that pulley is 106072, can anybody confirm that ? 

unnamed (1).jpg

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nylyon

That would be my guess for the pulley as well.

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peter lena

@ john c   p icture was there , cannot  find it now .  just added that idler pulley , in the middle of  deck  hitch lift area , 3" flat idler  pushes  in toward  front of deck , about an inch  was a perfect belt control point , single hole in deck  for  mount , elastic lock nut  to insure  solid mount , that would be on the bottom edge side of  this picture .  can't recover  it , pissed , pete

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gwest_ca

Looks like the 106072 is still available from Toro but shop around.

If the original top nuts had a nylon insert you can eliminate the key and use a regular lock washer and regular nut. A healthy does of Never-seize on the shaft will help next time.

This change was made to the last series of spindles with the key eliminated. The direction of rotation helps keep the nut tight. There is a service bulletin explaining this change.

Do you know the model number of the deck?

 

Pulley

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-106072

 

Service bulletin

 

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peter lena

@JOHN C.  found it 1672791539_IMG_0353(1).JPG.e1e15996839dadf2f71b4934b61594f3.JPG  look in background  here and see the flat idler pulley . eliminated belt bounce , pete , always looking for  more 

 

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John c

Pete that 2 pry bar trick is the way to go to get pulleys off..

 

I wasn't expecting this 2nd piece on the back side of the driven pulley, it was keyed, but the pulley wasn't, but it looked like maybe at some point it was, the inside of the bore showed signs of having been touched up. All three spindle shafts and clean and smooth at the pulley. I'll take the spindles off and apart over the weekend

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Not much different after all these years

 

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peter lena

@John c  glad that worked for you , hiding in plane site ! the other thing i added was a 3 " flat idler pulley on rear deck side of the  spindle pulley belt , its long unsupported  run is a perfect spot  , about in the middle of belt , under deck lift frame , drilled a hole just enough  deflexion to angle the belt and eliminate bounce . to the bearings . 3/8 bolt elastic lock nut . went after areas with  repetitive issues . will have to get a  picture  fix it site going . the deck detailing and lucas XTRA HD  grease , in every cleaned out bearing , makes for very quiet / smooth running .  my grandson is a c-130 -j  crew chief  , USMC . get back to you , pete  

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John c
Posted (edited)

The drive pulley on this deck is in 2 pieces, and I can't figure out why. Has something broken off or missing. 

 

Any of you guys have any experience with a pulley such as this ?

 

Thanks

 

 

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Edited by John c

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