1975 C160 Auto

[pfrederi 18,713]

How have you tested for spark?  Neon tester or a jump the gap type?    Get a new H-10 ( or better get an NGK   B-6L) plug put a jumper wire battery to + Coil terminal and crank   (leave condenser off)

Edited Saturday at 06:30 PM by pfrederi

[Krice58 20]

I just used one of the inline see through spark tester with the little light, I’m assuming that’s the neon style. I’ll have to try jumping the wire when I get home later. It did have spark when I first started working on it, but ever since I redid the wiring, I’ve got nothing. Checked all the pto switch connections, brake switch, it’s getting power to coil and solenoid. It’ll crank all day, but no spark. I replaced points and condenser, set points to .020. 

[squonk 43,939]

Did you clean the new points? Power has to go on and off at the coil - terminal (wire to points) whilst cranking. If it doesn't you won't have spark

[Krice58 20]

27 minutes ago, squonk said:

Did you clean the new points? Power has to go on and off at the coil - terminal (wire to points) whilst cranking. If it doesn't you won't have spark

I’ll check this when I get home. Thanks 

[pfrederi 18,713]

Those testers will frequently flash but there is no spark at the plug.  Has happened to me several times     Some plugs will fail under compression...(Champion I am talking about you !!)  Get a new plug.

 

These tester (B&S) are more reliable

 

[953 nut 60,348]

On 8/15/2025 at 5:25 PM, Krice58 said:

Points and condenser are newer, no corrosion buildup.

Even a new set of points can have a protective coating on the contacts that needs to be removed. With the condenser disconnected is there sparking at the points when the engine is attempting to be started? 

[Krice58 20]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Even a new set of points can have a protective coating on the contacts that needs to be removed. With the condenser disconnected is there sparking at the points when the engine is attempting to be started? 

After cleaning, I am getting some spark and popping from the carb. Some white smoke, but no start. 

[953 nut 60,348]

Having spark is a major step in the right direction, now we need to be sure the spark occurs at the correct time. Your points gap sets the ignition timing so the next step is to "static time" your ignition. Most videos on the subject use a multimeter for this, I prefer a test light because it will get your attention faster.

 

 

[Krice58 20]

👍

Edited Sunday at 05:45 PM by Krice58

[Krice58 20]

8 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

Gonna work on this when the wife gets home.

6 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Having spark is a major step in the right direction, now we need to be sure the spark occurs at the correct time. Your points gap sets the ignition timing so the next step is to "static time" your ignition. Most videos on the subject use a multimeter for this, I prefer a test light because it will get your attention faster.

 

 

 

[Krice58 20]

She is running and driving! Hydraulics work, transmission seems okay. Thank you everyone for the help!

Edited Sunday at 10:01 PM by Krice58

[953 nut 60,348]

27 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

running and driving! Hydraulics work, transmission seems okay. Thank you everyone for the help!

            And you learned a lot along the way and we created a thread that others can benefit from.     Winner all around.