Starter/ Gen wire repair

[wallfish 18,087]

Has anyone successfully repaired a broken positive wire to the post in a starter generator?

Not sure If that old wire will clean up enough that solder will stick to it or not.

Maybe solder a clean new piece of wire on the stud and use a crimp splice to the existing wire? Or solder the terminal directly to the stud?

Maybe drill and tap a #10 hole into the stud with a crimp terminal on the wire? 

[squonk 43,808]

56 minutes ago, wallfish said:

 

Maybe solder a clean new piece of wire on the stud and use a crimp splice to the existing wire?

the wire? 

Never done it but it sounds like a good plan. Take that stud right out where you can get to it good. Then get Mr.Soldering Gun out and solder it and finish it off with Mr. Heat Gun and some heat shrink. ( That is if they are not still fighting about who's hotter! 

 

Fast forward to 19:25 

 

Edited Sunday at 06:10 PM by squonk

[Handy Don 14,061]

Plenty of kits for refurbishing the starter generator will include a new stud.

Here is an example. Just be sure to get the right kit for your model. 

[adsm08 3,237]

@wallfish

 

I've had to do the repair you are proposing. I had one sent out to be rebuilt, and it came home with a stud that was damaged in transit (by me, not the rebuilder's fault). I tore open another one that was not working and stole a stud and soldered it exaclty as proposed.

 

The one thing I ran into was that I couldn't get any of my soldering equipment hot enough to do the job well, so I got one of those "wind-proof" butane grill lighters and had by son hold some extra heat over the work spot while I worked it with the iron.

 

Two years at least, and that unit still starts and charges.

Edited Sunday at 07:29 PM by adsm08

[ri702bill 9,411]

John - remove the stud, clean the soldered area and re-tin that area. Clean & tin the wire. Reassemble stud??? The housing may be too much of a heat sink. Anyway with both pretinned, the actual soldering should be easier.

[adsm08 3,237]

22 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

John - remove the stud, clean the soldered area and re-tin that area. Clean & tin the wire. Reassemble stud??? The housing may be too much of a heat sink. Anyway with both pretinned, the actual soldering should be easier.

 

 

I agree. I should have mentioned, I did the repair out of the housing.

[wallfish 18,087]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Plenty of kits for refurbishing the starter generator will include a new stud.

Here is an example. Just be sure to get the right kit for your model. 

I still have the same problem with connecting the old wire to a stud with a new stud. A new brush kit was ordered as the old ones were worn down to a nub. But, everything else with bearings and bushing were all tight and good.

 

So I chose to solder a ring type "solderless" connector to the stud. If they are ground just a little the copper is exposed plus a course surface should adhere better. The advantage is this could be done outside of the starter housing at the vice. Then crimp the crimp end of it to the wire which was still inside the housing.

Found the solder, found the flux, found the torch and found fingers will get burnt on hot stuff! LOL

I tried to get the magnet with the wire out too but those flat head screws that hold them on are a problem. I assume there is thread locker in there so even tried heating it up, but still a no go. Soooo, I was able to strip the insulation back a little and crimp it inside the housing, then mount the stud. 

 

17 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

John - remove the stud, clean the soldered area and re-tin that area. Clean & tin the wire. Reassemble stud??? The housing may be too much of a heat sink. Anyway with both pretinned, the actual soldering should be easier.

That old wire was so oxidized the solder wouldn't sick to it. I couldn't get the magnet it's attached to out in order to get better access to clean the wire braid which would've been easier 

 

[squonk 43,808]

About the only thing I ever saw work on those magnet/coil screws was a hand impact driver

[adsm08 3,237]

2 hours ago, squonk said:

About the only thing I ever saw work on those magnet/coil screws was a hand impact driver

 

I had an impact driver that the bits went into a 3/8th drive bit holder, so you could use sockets on it too. The driver sucked, but you could put the bit holder, and the bits, on an impact gun. That was awesome, and got those screws right out.