sqrlgtr 1,128 #26 Posted October 9 On 9/10/2025 at 4:54 PM, RJR49 said: Started pulling apart this afternoon. I started with the carb. It was welded to the block. At least it seemed that way. It took a chisel and several blows from a jammer to break it loose. When I took the bowl off I was shocked at how clean it was. I don't remember when Ethanol was put in gas but I'm willing to bet that this one has never seen it I will goes as far and say that I will buy you a brand new chiiinisium carb if you would let me have that one and want even charge you for shipping . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,869 #27 Posted October 9 15 hours ago, RJR49 said: You are probably correct. I did have a Chinese line , filter, and shut off valve but I didn't use them. Instead I went with NAPA. Of course those may be Chinese as well. Please consider dropping “Chinese” from your vocabulary of adjectives. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 159 #28 Posted October 9 Ok, but wondering why? Just stating facts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gasaholic 336 #29 Posted October 9 44 minutes ago, RJR49 said: Ok, but wondering why? Just stating facts. I've seen some excellent quality coming from China - It all depends on the manufacturer's specs and quality control - Same factory can turn out 100% precision with few if any flaws as can turn out 50/50 crapshoot quality stuff - it all depends on the buyer of the production run. there's any number of high quality components that get spec'd out from those factories (and a portion of the rejects that don't pass quality control standards often become "grey market" factory seconds you find on Amazon mixed in with "slap it together and ship it" quality where there's little if any quality control checks performed which is why you can buy a $15.99 "clone" carb of a $129 OEM carburetor with both coming out of the same factory.) So "Chinesium" can be equally as good (or bad) as anything you can buy made elsewhere (including in USA) I'd replace "Chinese" with "off brand clone" and you'd have a bit more accuracy . Same way that back in the 1970's and 1980's people had the same opinion of Japanese products (and "made in Hong Kong" items too)- Your Apple iPhone could be among those things made in China... Clone parts these days can also come from India, Pakistan, Vietnam, and Mexico, among others that can be as good as (or as bad as) any "Chineseium" parts you can buy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 159 #32 Posted October 11 (edited) I thought this was broken but it seems that they changed the way the battery tray retains the battery. Gone are the threaded rods. Now the side is angled. Can anyone post a picture of what I'm missing Edited October 12 by RJR49 Misspelled word Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 159 #33 Posted October 14 I figured out the battery hold down. Toro still has the parts available for $50.00! Fifty bucks for three wires and some nuts and washers seemed excessive so I bent some threaded rod and made my own. I could see an obvious leak in the left axel seal. I wasn't to worried about it until I looked closer and saw the misalignment. I've never pulled a hub. What am I in for? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 12,589 #34 Posted October 14 1 hour ago, RJR49 said: What am I in for? As wet as it looks you may get lucky and it will come off without much trouble. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,565 #35 Posted October 14 3 hours ago, RJR49 said: I wasn't to worried about it until I looked closer and saw the misalignment. Could be the casting was machined off center or it could be a bad axle bearing. With the rear end jacked up try moving the wheel up/down and front./rear, if there is movement the axle bearing is bad and the transaxle will need to be opened up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,764 #36 Posted October 14 5 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Could be the casting was machined off center or it could be a bad axle bearing. With the rear end jacked up try moving the wheel up/down and front./rear, if there is movement the axle bearing is bad and the transaxle will need to be opened up. If it's the bearing and the axle isn't damaged, a new bearing can be driven in just driving the old bearing farther in toward the diff. Plenty of empty axle in there where the old bearing won't hurt a thing. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,565 #37 Posted October 14 7 minutes ago, ineedanother said: new bearing can be driven in just driving the old bearing farther in toward the diff. Plenty of empty axle in there where the old bearing won't hurt a thing. The fact that something CAN BE DONE doesn't mean it should be done. There are lots of bits and pieces of the old failed bearing that can become wedged between the teeth of two gears and bring you to an expensive halt. If a job is worth doing it is worth doing it correctly. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,764 #38 Posted October 15 3 minutes ago, 953 nut said: The fact that something CAN BE DONE doesn't mean it should be done. There are lots of bits and pieces of the old failed bearing that can become wedged between the teeth of two gears and bring you to an expensive halt. If a job is worth doing it is worth doing it correctly. I suppose that's true, but for a worn bearing that can be replaced without splitting the case and all that goes along with that, I think it's a viable option. I wouldn't recommend driving in a bearing that is rusted and frozen or breaking apart and I think common sense could be applied in that case. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 11,023 #39 Posted October 15 4 hours ago, RJR49 said: I wasn't too worried about it until I looked closer and saw the misalignment. I've never pulled a hub. What am I in for? That misalignment may mean the bearing is shot. Jack it up and see if it moves up/down right left. If it moves more than a very tiny about the bearing or shaft is worn and a new seal will not last. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,076 #40 Posted October 15 (edited) Well maintained axle bearings don't fail. If it has then i would suspect lack of maintenance, no low oil, water in the tranny etc. If so then the other bearrings in the tranny are also suspect. Open it up... Edited October 15 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 159 #41 Posted October 15 (edited) I was sure, when I saw how off center the axel was that I was facing a major problem. But, look at the picture. The axel is off center on this side! I'll have to check but I don'tthinkthat my other C-160 is like this. Given that it's almost 50 years old I guess that I should be impressed that it's doing as well as it is but it seems that the battery tray was holding the fan gear in place. When I took the tray out the steering went. Edited October 15 by RJR49 Forgot to insert picture Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 159 #42 Posted November 3 Two steps forward and one step back. After taking Ebinmains advice I tried to start it. Unbelievablyafter all these years it runs like a new motor.....well except maybe some exhaust leak around the pipe nipple before the muffler. So I jumped on to go for a ride. I could crawl faster. The rod that goes through the linkage to the transmission is frozen solid. If I leave the bolt out that secures the rod it will probably work fine but I would rather no do that. I soaked it in Liquid Wrench, hammered on the end next to the drive belt, grabbed the rod with vise grips and hammered on a large adjustable wrench I used on the large nut. Once again any ideas would be appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 159 #43 Posted November 4 I'm trying with the idea of grinding off the tab that prevents the rod from turning and cutting the rod. I'm thinking that would allow me to pull the assembly and put it in my press. Thoughts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,764 #44 Posted November 4 On 11/3/2025 at 4:42 PM, RJR49 said: Two steps forward and one step back. Once again any ideas would be appreciated. Patience...that would be my suggestion. I tend to lean toward less pounding and cutting on things until I give them a good chance of getting freed up with penetrating oil. You say it has sat for maybe 15 years. Soak it. Then soak it again, and again. That, along with gentle leverage is often better than hammering IMO before you end up taking another step back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 159 #45 Posted November 5 Probably good advise. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 1,001 #46 Posted November 5 the white plastic/nylon cam plate is not supposed to be lubricated Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 159 #47 Posted November 7 It occurs to me that maybe I'm doing this wrong. I believe that once you remove the bolt holding the tab that the rod inside the spring should just pull out. I've tried Liquid Wrench and a hammer. I've tried loosening the large nut and am about to resort to cutting it out. Before I go cutting it can you guys confirm that there isnt something else I should be removing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
