Teddy da Bear62 64 #1 Posted Saturday at 06:59 PM (edited) Hello again guys and gals! Today's project is removing an Ark 550 loader from one of my D-250's. Can you say "Ark loader"? (Mr. Rogers tone) I've never taken it off since purchase. I have the stands for it, but they are 6 to 8" taller than the place it fits on the tractor. I thought "no problem! I raise it with a jack". Big problem! As I raise it? The upright wants to move backwards toward the fiberglass fender! It's not stable. I put a couple of bolts back through the uprights to stablize it on the tractor while I figure this out. In the meantime I came to ask you all if there is a tried and true safe method to removing the loader? I know you like photos, so here is one of the stands which illustrates the difference in jack height vs. the tube on loader (where it slides into). If it were me designing the stand? I would have made it only an 1" taller than where it sits on the tractor. Not much to lift and I could roll the tractor right out from under it without an engineering feat of magic. That is a 50 ton bottle jack. I don't believe in falling short! Edited Saturday at 07:05 PM by Teddy da Bear62 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,681 #2 Posted Saturday at 07:32 PM 30 minutes ago, Teddy da Bear62 said: I will make it only an 1" taller than where it sits on the tractor. There, I fixed it for you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,969 #3 Posted Saturday at 07:58 PM It's my understanding you use the loader hydraulics to lift it off the tractor. Lock the bucket into something then curl it so the uprights come off the sub-frame mount and you can put the stands in. Then remove the pump etc. Then the opposite procedure to mount it back on the tractor again. Mount the pump and use the hydraulics again. Maybe mount a piece of angle steel to the wall of a garage or shed or find something heavy enough the bucket blade can slide under. Procedure is probably in the manual too 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,681 #4 Posted Saturday at 09:06 PM Does it have to be as high as the stands to clear the front tires? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddy da Bear62 64 #5 Posted Saturday at 09:07 PM 1 hour ago, wallfish said: It's my understanding you use the loader hydraulics to lift it off the tractor. Lock the bucket into something then curl it so the uprights come off the sub-frame mount and you can put the stands in. Then remove the pump etc. Then the opposite procedure to mount it back on the tractor again. Mount the pump and use the hydraulics again. Maybe mount a piece of angle steel to the wall of a garage or shed or find something heavy enough the bucket blade can slide under. Procedure is probably in the manual too Didn't get a manual with it. And loader is not operational as the main lift cylinders are leaking badly. I now answered my own question. Stand are that tall as tractor needs clearance for the front tires as it backs away. Any kits available to rebuild the cylinders? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,295 #6 Posted Saturday at 10:03 PM Is there a Hydraulic Sales / Service facility near you that deals with construction equipment?? Could be short money. My FIL's last WH was a D250 that came with an Ark FEL and a 60" cutting deck. I recall him using the overhead chainfall to assist in removal & re-assembly of the FEL... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,633 #7 Posted Saturday at 11:11 PM Any good Hydraulic Shop should have the seals/o-rings or can redo them for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddy da Bear62 64 #8 Posted Saturday at 11:50 PM 38 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said: Any good Hydraulic Shop should have the seals/o-rings or can redo them for you. Not a whole lot in my area. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,589 #9 Posted Saturday at 11:53 PM My loader is not an ARK but when I pulled mine off i used 6 X 6 cribbing to hold the bucket up and had a 8 foot 2 X 6 spanning several roof trusses above the uprights and lifted them with a come-along. This gave me ample clearance to back out from under the loader. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,969 #10 Posted yesterday at 12:33 AM 3 hours ago, Teddy da Bear62 said: Didn't get a manual with it. Didn't need to, just download one off here 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddy da Bear62 64 #11 Posted yesterday at 12:46 AM 12 minutes ago, wallfish said: Didn't need to, just download one off here Thank you! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,609 #12 Posted yesterday at 01:18 PM On my D200 you put the supports stands in the tubes on the loader. The stands will have to be angled to the back. Then you stand on the tractor and lift up using the cross brace of the loader (Goes between the two side towers). as you lift the stands will swing forward until they are vertical The let the loader down to sit on them. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddy da Bear62 64 #13 Posted yesterday at 03:15 PM 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: On my D200 you put the supports stands in the tubes on the loader. The stands will have to be angled to the back. Then you stand on the tractor and lift up using the cross brace of the loader (Goes between the two side towers). as you lift the stands will swing forward until they are vertical The let the loader down to sit on them. Excellent idea! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddy da Bear62 64 #14 Posted yesterday at 03:22 PM I'm going to say something that may offend a few wheel horse owners and ark loader owners .... I have been watching posts for rebuilding these lift cylinders. What the hell is the big secret? It seems the o rings and wipers would have already been specified in some post here. This isn't frickin rocket science! Logic dictates that ARK specified a brand and part number for each o ring and wiper, orrrrrr....they bought the cylinders off the shelf and installed them. But somebody here has had to rebuild their own cylinders at one time or another. Why are the sizes or part numbers not specified in the posts? (I haven't come across them). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,609 #15 Posted yesterday at 03:38 PM No secret just never had to rebuild one. The cylinder from my big tractor I just took it to the professionals.. Pretty sure ARK used standard o rings ...measure what is in there. Take the wiper to a hydraulics place... They probably have them on hand. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites