PTO PROBLEM

[Blackhood Bill 722]

Is there any maintenance that needs to be done on a PTO I have circled the area in green. I was tilling the it came unlocked on the left side. Put it back in place put belt back on in proper location then went to till again and the PTO now won’t turn. This is on a 1984 c 145 auto kohler engine. Had no trouble until today.

 

Edited June 28 by Blackhood Bill
Spell correction

[ebinmaine 72,191]

Interesting timing.  

 

We need to disassemble a couple here too.  

 

I know there's bearings in there. 

 

We need to know how to reinstall and adjust as well.  

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 72,191]

This is a thread I'd saved awhile back. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Blackhood Bill 722]

Do you need to grease the PTO any at anytime? It’s been ran many times no problems including winter time with snow blower and never a problem until today.

[squonk 43,599]

First thought is the clutch disc failed. There is an inner and outer bearing and an inner seal in the pulley K B Horse parts has all new parts and they are top quality. The clutch disc is better than original. 

 

Edited June 28 by squonk

[Handy Don 13,847]

The bearings in the PTO shell and throwout can be lubed easiest if it is disassembled. Note, though that a good high-heat grease, applied VERY sparingly is the way to go. Grease that runs out of the bearing and onto the clutch surface will quickly ruin the clutch face. 

[Racinbob 11,906]

We can't see the clutch surface for wear but I'd suspect after 40 years or so it's pretty wore out. I just recently freshened up the PTO on Dino, a 78 C-121. I picked up a new outer bearing and inner seal from NAPA. The inner roller bearing was dirty but looked OK.

 

 

I decided just to clean and regrease. I think it would be near a miracle to remove it without damage so I blocked off the outer opening and flooded it. It cleaned up really good so I simply put it back together and should be good for another 47 years. I also put the best clutch plate I had on it. The plate on the Reborn B-80 was fairly new and I don't need a PTO on that one. Dino will likely get used for the leaf blower and who knows what else down the road.

 

 

 

I went ahead and set the PTO on the B-80 so it's always 'engaged' so there's no bearing movement. 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 72,191]

10 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

set the PTO

 

 

Speaking of which...

Is there a particular way to set proper adjustments once the PTO has been removed and cleaned and rebuilt? 

 

Certain tension? 

 

[JoeM 8,243]

Somewhere I remember something about having ten thousands gap in the clutch to face area when disengaged. Might be a good starting point.

I like running the engagement rod up trough the cam lever. Gives a little more throw and won't pop out of engagement as easy. 

If your clutch is covered with grease a good cleaning with brake clean helps too.

Of course the older clutches have rivets and it is easy to tell wear. The bonded newer ones can be run longer or until the rod is out of adjustment.

 

[peter lena 9,217]

 @Blackhood Bill   personally find the repetition of this  problem to be amazing , 12 related bearings , and their lack of correct  specific  hi temp lubrication , at every stage , sloppy lever start area , only ads to the , issue , personally , no screaming clutch , smooth easy engagement / wind up  very quiet  / easy .  HINT , ITS NOT ONE THING , ITS EVERYTHING  .  pete

[Racinbob 11,906]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

Speaking of which...

Is there a particular way to set proper adjustments once the PTO has been removed and cleaned and rebuilt? 

 

Certain tension? 

 

 

I've never seen anything about it but there probably is. I just go by feel. Engaged firmly but not forced. I don't want any clutch slippage. I mow through some pretty heavy stuff at times and with the deck belt adjusted properly every once in a while, a combination of the grass/weeds and ground speed will cause a little chirp of the drive belt. Not much and I back down immediately but the clutch holds firm with no slippage. 

[ebinmaine 72,191]

1 hour ago, JoeM said:

Somewhere I remember something about having ten thousands gap in the clutch to face area when disengaged. Might be a good starting point.

I like running the engagement rod up trough the cam lever. Gives a little more throw and won't pop out of engagement as easy. 

 

 

That measurement on some here is so tight it would make it so I couldn't engage the clutch. 

I'm wondering if I have bent linkage on certain machines.  

 

 

[JoeM 8,243]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

That measurement on some here is so tight it would make it so I couldn't engage the clutch. 

yeah now that i think about it 

i got it confused with the PTO brake. ten is the clearance recommended there 

 

i just do the clutch by feel. and make sure it’s not slipping 

[peter lena 9,217]

@JoeM  

notice first photo , added washers / lube on PTO LEVER START ?  that firmes up eliminates wobbly  engagement start , eliminate sloppy original TRUNION , linkage aera , went over the original  3/8 x 16 threading  with a 3/8x24 fine thread die nut , screw heim joint  right over it , magical / smooth lever engagement . notice spring on pto outer swing arm clip? , that goes down to hitch pin clip on frame mount ?  eliminates sloppy  linkage noise , enhances function , have this set up on 3 horses , no isues at all , pete 

[lynnmor 7,764]

The brake pad on the PTO is adjusted to .012" clearance with the PTO engaged with the hope that the implement will stop rotating with the PTO disengaged.  The rest is just a balancing act where you adjust for no clutch slippage but not too tight.  Remember that the force you put on the clutch is pushing on the thrust bearing in the engine, so excessive force can cause wear or damage.  Common sense is the only good answer. 

[Lee1977 7,169]

The Wheel Horse manual says 1/16"  between the clutch disk and clutch plate. I usually run mine around 1/8" I don't care if it doesn't stop right away.