Teddo 56 #51 Posted July 2 Thanks for the input, guys. I'll wait till it's put together and treat the seal replacement as dessert! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,274 #52 Posted July 2 An excellent reason to install seals at the end...if you put them in early and then later something happens and you have to take it back apart...you will be sliding the shafts through the seals an extra few times. Use this manual along with videos to put together...Section V. Some good information in here...like tourquing the hi/low bolt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddo 56 #53 Posted July 2 Thanks Dino. I actually have this manual on the bench. I dismantled the tranny using this. I guess I should have read ahead, eh? I still have yet to pull the old ones out. I'm curious- Have you every heard of tapping the old seal in(if there is room ) and adding a new seal on top of it. I had an old timer tell me that's what he does if he's got room for the new seal. In fact, I saw him do this on a small engine's crankshaft after the engine was rebuilt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 937 #54 Posted July 3 hi teddo, when doing the double seal trick, try filling the cavity between the seals with grease. otherwise the outer most seal 'runs dry'. overtime this will create a slight wear groove in the shaft. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddo 56 #55 Posted July 3 mrc, have you known anyone that has done this to the WH axle shafts? I looked today and there is not much room to drive in the existing seal to the needle bearing-maybe 1/8". About the width of the seal. I can't say I've seen any topics on this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddo 56 #56 Posted July 6 (edited) I put everything back together Friday after putting in the new shift fork. I don't remember any issues alongt the way. Followed the manual then I would stop and have a coffee and watch more of stevasaurus in his videos and get tutoring and some laughs at that. I didn't have trouble getting the detent balls in. I used a 1'8" punch and once it was holding I switched to a small 1/8" screwdriver and that allowed the detent bolt and shift forks to slide past easier. I made sure not to forget to put the HI-LO fork in the slot of the linkage. I had a bit of trouble getting the case halfs together but it turned out to be the two pilot stubs on each case half and not the shafts. Once I discovered that, a simple twist let it drop on. I ended up broaching a new keyway slot on one of the hubs and hubs went on well after some nice polishing of the shafts. Seals went on easy. I did tape up the Woodruff key slots before installing seals. I had run my thumb across one ane got a nice slice in my thumb so I thought it smart to tape them. I only installed one seal instead of doubling them up.. Not enough room for two unless I pushed the outboard needle bearings in a bit, so I opted not to mess with those. I put it on the tractor last night and went over it today, checking all the bolts and going over the list and putting the tranny fluid in. I fired it up this afternoon, took it for a spin around the house and checked all the gears under power. All is good. Before I put the new HI-LO fork in I took it over to a welding instructor at our local college who reinforced it for me as well as repaired the broken one. Now I have a spare. Thanks to all who chimed in to help and to Master Stevasaurus whose videos I nearly memorized and enjoyed watching. He really is human. Edited July 7 by Teddo spelling 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,775 #57 Posted July 7 for the great update. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
