UNBOUND 60 #1 Posted May 28 My newly aquired 65 lawn ranger is not charging. I am getting .7 volts a/c across the two stator wires.Not sure if its the stator or something else. Since it has been converted to battery ignition that may be part of the problem. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,169 #2 Posted May 28 This thread is the manual for your engine, it may provide some answers. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,838 #4 Posted May 29 14 hours ago, UNBOUND said: My newly aquired 65 lawn ranger is not charging. I am getting .7 volts a/c across the two stator wires.Not sure if its the stator or something else. Since it has been converted to battery ignition that may be part of the problem. Charging and ignition systems are separate systems except for the battery. What engine are we dealing with? Original Tecumseh? When testing the voltage, are you putting the meter leads on both wires -- "across the two stator wires". Use the + lead to the wire and the black to ground. The manuals posted may provide a trouble shooting guide to ohm out the charging coils 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 60 #5 Posted May 29 The engine is the original tecumseh H60-75117d. A previous owner has replace the original coil with a canister coil. In doing so they might have done something to the charging system. In a video I watched he attached the meter leads across the two stator wires and got 32 vac. I assumed that would be the same on this engine. I do know that the charging and ignition systems are seperate but they are mounted in same location. According to the manual I am testing correctly as it has the 3 amp dc alternator with rectifier panel. I should be getting 35 vac at 3600 rpm. At this point I may have to pull the flywheel and see whats in there. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,169 #6 Posted May 29 2 hours ago, UNBOUND said: pull the flywheel and see whats in there Using an ohm meter check each lead to ground to see if either (or both) is shorted to ground. Now check for resistance across the two leads to see if there may an open in the wiring or stator, there should be a slight resistance of one ohm or so. Seems like that is the next step if the resistance reading doesn't come out good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 60 #7 Posted May 29 With my ohm meter set at 200, I get 39.0 on one wire 0 on other. Nothing across the 2 wires. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,169 #8 Posted May 29 Time to take a look under the flywheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 60 #9 Posted May 29 Whats confusing me now is that none of the Tecumseh stators show 2 red wires. I think I read somewhere it should be 3 amp. I wouldnt even bother with it except for the fact that coil needs battery power to work, thus draining the battery as it runs. I am not sure a 3 amp stator will keep up with that coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,386 #10 Posted May 30 In 1985 the 310, 312 and 314 Kohler powered models use a 3 amp unregulated but rectified by a diode charging system to power the battery ignition and charge the battery for electric start. They used another stator winding to power the lights using the AC current produced without rectifying or regulating. The lights will work with AC or DC power. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 60 #11 Posted May 30 That is like the system that I have, so should be ok if I can get it to charge. I have been pricing stators and they are not cheap. I may switch it back to mag coil which wont need battery power to work. I have a parts engine I can use which ran but smoked some. The photo is the diode or rectifier panel I have. The original diodes have been replaced and the fuse seems to be in the wrong location. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 60 #12 Posted May 30 Found the problem, broken wire on one of the charging coils. Broke a bolt off trying to remove ign module. Not going to try the other bolt At this point I may just replace the original coil. I am pretty sure the remaining bolt should hold it in place. The battery will only need to start the engine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 60 #13 Posted May 31 I switched it back to mag coil and its running darn good.I attached the wire from the good charging coil to the diode panel and it appears to be charging the battery. As it was running with my meter on the battery the voltage was slowly going up. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites