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stvski80085

Oil filter/cooler setup for small engines

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stvski80085

This just looks like a neat idea. I know it's overkill but still think it's cool.  Could do this on a small K series.

Steve

 

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ebinmaine

Interesting thought process..

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HyperPete
Posted (edited)

Interesting.

For fun, I did a rough tally of the cost of parts for the oil cooler setup (and similar for some since they were unavailable) and the pre-tax cost is around $250.

Pretty steep for a $379 predator engine!

 

Parts Used on This Build Predator 420cc - https://bit.ly/3qHtMdR 34mm Mikuni Kit - https://bit.ly/2V4WmZa Stage 2 - http://bit.ly/34iuHpg Top Plate - http://bit.ly/2NDP1fT Oil Drain Line - https://amzn.to/3BTEynp M12 Battery Mount - https://amzn.to/374XxgH Pump - https://amzn.to/3zZ1gsP Oil Filter Housing - https://amzn.to/3i5pv29 Oil Filter - https://amzn.to/2Vi7moK Check Valve - https://amzn.to/3yeXmLJ Clear Filter - https://amzn.to/3f81DJj Oil Cooler - https://amzn.to/3BPJidI Merch & Events - http://bit.ly/33YbmtO

Edited by HyperPete
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ri702bill
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, HyperPete said:

Pretty steep for a $379 predator engine!

But.... all the hardware is transferable to a different engine if it tosses a rod...

What I really need to see is the disected spin on filter after 25 hours of running. That should be entertaining!

Edited by ri702bill
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Wayne0

You gotta' run a small engine pretty hard to need that. Interesting concept, but a fools errand. IMO

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stvski80085
Posted (edited)

I just thought it was interesting. I will not do it unless someone gave me all the parts.  I can change the oil monthly and it take years to add up to that.  I only need a quart.  I agree that it would be cool to check the filter and see what it actually picks up.
steve

Edited by stvski80085
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HyperPete
Posted (edited)

When I looked at the parts list for the guy's entire build, I kind of "understood".  He's running a $500 cam, rod, & flywheel on a $379 engine.  Plus other "upgrades".  For a go-cart.

Heck, I say throw a Hayabusa engine on the go cart and REALLY crank it up!

 

EDIT:  This one is "only" 400 HP.  He has an 800 HP version, too.

 

Edited by HyperPete
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RED-Z06

Ive run oil temp probes on older splash lubed engines back when i had a few digitron and mycron setups laying around.  I think one of the hardest working engines is a power washer, they run continuously at near 100% load, i probed a few engines across a few brands and found, yeah the oil gets hot but i struggled to get it up into the normal range, it needs to regularly get over 212⁰ to cook off moisture,  but needs to stay under 275⁰ to avoid thermal breakdown.  Now, a filter is never a bad thing, definitely kudos for the filter, which on its own provides some oil cooling.

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ri702bill
6 hours ago, stvski80085 said:

it would be cool to check the filter and see what it actually picks up.

Exactly. If the pleats in the media are still squeaky clean after 25 hours, it was a total waste of time & money... but, if it looks like it is full of coffee grounds, well done....

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RED-Z06
7 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Exactly. If the pleats in the media are still squeaky clean after 25 hours, it was a total waste of time & money... but, if it looks like it is full of coffee grounds, well done....

You really never want to see anything in a filter, you'll see a few random flecks of metal, totally normal...but if you're seeing accumulated sludge and chunks of stuff you have a serious problem, like the oil is getting over 325⁰ and cooking off, or you're going hundreds of hours between changes.

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clueless

On those OHV engines just run full syn, they run a bit cooler and the oil change is a least doubled. I don't change the oil in my 13hp generator which runs at least 20 hours a day after one of those hurricanes but every 72 hours, and it looks like it just came out of the bottle. I haven't done it but I'm sure it could go at least 100 hours. Now it does run on propane, which will keep any engine oil much cleaner.   

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