tvr383 0 #1 Posted September 15, 2009 I amtrying to fit a 48 inches side discharge,unknown brand,meant to rig under the tractor.Very clean and solid deck apparently meant for a 23 hp sears tractor of the late 70s. My tractor is a 1973 18-auto that has a front mule .So today I realized that my deck is meant to turn CLOCKWISE!! So that was probably a vertical shaft tractor arangement.Now my kohler is a horizontal shaft motor and because of this the belt once deviated under the tractor will run the deck's pulley counterclockwise. My question is:where the original (5-1220) 48 inches side discharge deck meant for clockwise or anticlockwise? If they were clockwise my installation is incomplete I guess...maybe I'm short of another part? I could fix te rotation direction crossing over under the belt midway between the deck's pulley and the mule but then a friction of the belt sections happens. Hopefully I am not getting clearly how the whole system functions and you fellows could shed some light! thanks. P.S. I took some pictures but cannot attach any as they ae too larg..trying to figure how to fix this also! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #2 Posted September 15, 2009 Hi, To help to understand better my problem of adapting an odd mowing deck to my 1973 18-automatic wheelhorse I will try attaching few pictures to this message. Referring to my longer yesterday message about this matter you will have a more complete wording of the bug. Simply said nobody can tell me if the older mowing deck meant for the more usual D serie tractor,like D-160,D-180,D-200, were clockwise turning or counterclockwise? Attached Image Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
defed 0 #3 Posted September 15, 2009 i don't even know which way the decks spin, but you should be able to tell by looking at the blades. they have to turn into the sharp side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sawhorse 0 #4 Posted September 16, 2009 Maybe a flat idler could be used to keep the belts from rubbing. The flat idler would attach near the pulley on the left on the back of the mule drive and deflect the belt coming off that pulley downward. If you find a setup that works we would all like to see it! Many of us have considered the same thing. :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #5 Posted September 16, 2009 Maybe a flat idler could be used to keep the belts from rubbing. The flat idler would attach near the pulley on the left on the back of the mule drive and deflect the belt coming off that pulley downward. If you find a setup that works we would all like to see it! Many of us have considered the same thing. Jon, Congrats ...you understand my problem! The idea you suggest came to my mind also...there are two goals to achieve,with some kind of deflector,create distance between the two crissed crossing belt sections and align the incoming section to the right hand side pulley of the mule as if let to it it would tend to jump that said pulley! See we managed to built a simple system to hook up the deck (quick coupling style) and were just about to build-in the use of the hydro to lift up or down the deck....now that's when that booboo showed... That deck is a solid one and I'll do my best to hook it up... Adding a picture of it underneath. Attached Image Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #6 Posted September 16, 2009 another pic of it...nobody to identify it? Attached Image Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daemon2525 5 #7 Posted September 16, 2009 That is a sears deck. For the older ss15, etc about a 1970's model. Edit. Ooops.I guess that he already knew that from the first post. What was the question????? LOL!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #8 Posted September 16, 2009 That is a sears deck. For the older ss15, etc about a 1970's model. Edit. Ooops.I guess that he already knew that from the first post. What was the question????? LOL!!!!! Thanks. I had been told it is a Sears but wasn't sure of the source.With the additional information concerning wich sears tractor it was meant for I should find more infos out of the net about it all...you wouldn't know wich model number or name was given to this deck? Would have it been called a craftman or sears then? thanks again. Ron. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daemon2525 5 #9 Posted September 16, 2009 I am going to guess at sears model 917.253592 http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirec...omponent%20list I collect WH tractors, but my neighbor collects Sears. edit: another link http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirec...omponent%20list Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 605 #10 Posted September 16, 2009 From what I can see from your picture, you have a D-180 tractor. The Kohler 18 is mounted with the PTO to the front. All small engines I have seen have a CCW rotation looking at the PTO side. This means that the pulley turns down on the left side facing the front of the tractor. You don't have to cross the belt, just run the belt straight back and around the mower base pulley and it will be turning clock wise. You are making a problem you don't have. Getting the base lined up to keep the belt on is your biggest problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #11 Posted September 16, 2009 From what I can see from your picture, you have a D-180 tractor. The Kohler 18 is mounted with the PTO to the front. All small engines I have seen have a CCW rotation looking at the PTO side. This means that the pulley turns down on the left side facing the front of the tractor. You don't have to cross the belt, just run the belt straight back and around the mower base pulley and it will be turning clock wise. You are making a problem you don't have. Getting the base lined up to keep the belt on is your biggest problem. Don, My tractor is a 1973 18-auto wich is similar to the D-180 indeed.Normally the motor should be a 18 HP K-482 but mine has K-582 cast into the cylinder block wich is a 23 HP motor. Could very well be the 482 a CCW engine but mine rotates CW!! To be sure we're talking same language lets say I see the PTO pulleys rotating CW when I'm standing in front of the tractor looking at the PTO.And because of this rotation once passed under ,through the mule pulleys,then I have a CCW deck rotation and that doesn't suit a right hand discharge deck. Installing a second mule type arrangement behind the deck's pulley that would be a belt tensionner at same time should get my deck/tractor functionning. thanks, Ron. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #12 Posted September 17, 2009 Could very well be the 482 a CCW engine but mine rotates CW!! So that would mean your tractor backs up when you move the direction control lever forward? :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #13 Posted September 17, 2009 So that would mean your tractor backs up when you move the direction control lever forward? Well guys thousands excuses and thousand thanks because you are right and I am wrong!!!! It turns CCW!I think what happenned is the PTO pulleys ,while PYO is dissengaged turn slightly CW because of some physics effects I can't explain....just back from the garage and this time Ilet my finger touching the outside of the pulley and got the proof in the pudding. Now all I have to do is find a belt and buid a tensionner and get mowing before snow hits! About the belt is it adviceable to use the adjustable type of belt or not?It is kind of stiffer thand a standard belt and wonder if it will twist as easy? thanks again. Ron. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #14 Posted September 25, 2009 Not sure what you mean by an adjustable belt. In the long run you will want a "OPE type" belt also known as a "Dry" belt or a "aramid" reinforced belt. :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #15 Posted September 25, 2009 Not sure what you mean by an adjustable belt. In the long run you will want a "OPE type" belt also known as a "Dry" belt or a "aramid" reinforced belt. Adjustable in length I meant. Its an industrial product,so not frequently encountered ,in hardware stores.It consists of many independat link that interlock between themselves so you can adjust the desired length.I carry this on my commercial fishing boat ready to replace any belts that would break down. But since my initial post I have found the belt size my adapted deck needs and it is 105 inchesx5/8.So I got such a belt but I guess (by the price 30.00) cdn dollars,it is not anything special you refered to. I guess the aramid reinforced type is for longevity am I right? thanks. Ron. P.S.I got the deck functionning but still am short a few final adjustements.Question:My deck has two narrow wheels in the back and none in front altough there are two glidders on each side constitued by two pieces of HD flat bar that,I guess,are meant to support the deck somewhat while cutting....Should necessarely the rear wheels be in contact while cutting? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #16 Posted September 25, 2009 I wondered if that was what you meant. I have always wondered about those multi-link belts. So I take it they work well? Do tell more. I assume they are replacing typical "fan belts" in the applications you have used them for? Yes, the aramid (AKA kevlar Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #17 Posted September 26, 2009 I wondered if that was what you meant. I have always wondered about those multi-link belts. So I take it they work well? Do tell more. I assume they are replacing typical "fan belts" in the applications you have used them for? Yes, the aramid (AKA kevlar Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #18 Posted September 26, 2009 Well, since you have a spool of the stuff it makes perfect sense to make a test belt with the adjustable belts. Once you are sure the size is right then measure it and order a proper OPE Aramid belt. If you ask at the hardware store they may even have the OPE belts - some do but not all. When I make something up measure a tape measure and then run a cheap fractional belt from the hardware store. If it fits then I buy an OPE belt and keep it as a spare till the cheap belt dies. Good luck wth your project. It looks promising! :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites