Dino Wheels

[Racinbob 11,808]

I was going to save this for Dino Part 6 but wanted more opinions before I paint the Dino sheet metal. My first time on a HVLP spray gun. I used a mix of 12oz of gloss white, 4oz of gloss almond and 3oz of mineral spirits. I set the pressure at 60psi. Even at the max sprayer setting I felt that I should have had more paint flow but it was doable. I did the backside first for practice. I had a few spots pop up almost like there was a tiny drip of water. I did get a couple runs but it was the backside. The front was going better until I had a sprayer malfunction. The upper pin on the trigger fell out. A quick fix then the sprayer clogged up. I totally forgot to use a strainer so that was probably why. I'm thinking I definitely need to put a water strainer and a regulator at the gun end of the hose. I had 75' of air hose on it so it would be easier to control the actual gun pressure. The water separator is probably a no brainer. The front side of the wheels turned out pretty good and the backsides are acceptable. I'll show some constraint and not mess with removing the tire protection until the paint drys. I usually do that too soon and end up touching the wet paint. 

Any dos or don'ts guys?

 

Edited April 24 by Racinbob

[WHX?? 50,973]

4 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

wanted more opinions

@Achto

[Pullstart 65,090]

1.  I’ve never used a paint gun.

 

2.  I could be totally wrong.

 

3.  75 psi sounds very high.  I am under the impression that 20 psi or so is a desired setting for a good spray.

 

4.  It’s awesome that you’re trying this out!

[953 nut 58,565]

I've never used the HVLP gun so know nothing about the pressure they work best at.

Thinning the paint is something that everyone has their own formula for. I mix the paint and then hold the stir stick above the pot, If it drips for more than three seconds I add a bit more reducer until I reach that point. Two light coats a few minutes apart is much better than one heavier coat.       

I have a home made water separator set-up. The air line from the compressor goes to a twenty foot piece of copper tubing that is coiled in a five gallon bucket filled with water and a water separator attached to the outlet. from there I use a 3/8 PVC air hose to get near the work and a 1/4" hose to the gun.

[Achto 29,016]

2 hours ago, Racinbob said:

I definitely need to put a water strainer and a regulator at the gun end of the hose

 

I have a pressure regulator and a filter connected directly to my gun. Keeps water out & allows me to control the pressure with out walking back to wall. I'm guessing you have a gravity feed gun, the tip pressure does not need to be as high as one would think for good atomization, 30 to 40psi at the gun inlet on my gun, might be higher on yours. Best just to experiment on a scrap piece. As far as reduction, you really should not have to change the reduction from a standard siphon feed to HVLP. 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/oilwater-separator-68246.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/125-psi-air-flow-regulator-with-gauge-62695.html

 

[squonk 42,955]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

1.  I’ve never used a paint gun.

 

2.  I could be totally wrong.

 

3.  75 psi sounds very high.  I am under the impression that 20 psi or so is a desired setting for a good spray.

 

4.  It’s awesome that you’re trying this out!

Yes HVLP means low pressure and high volume.  Also get your water separator and filter  as far away from the compressor as you can. 

 

For small jobs I paint with the Rustoleum paint /clear method I've explained many times. Comes out good with nothing to clean up. I use a TIP Tools turbine HVLP set up when I do a major paint project. Sounds like a vacuum cleaner running and I can paint anywhere there is 110 volts 

 

Edited April 24 by squonk

[Racinbob 11,808]

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

3.  75 psi sounds very high.  I am under the impression that 20 psi or so is a desired setting for a good spray.

 

I'm not sure 20 is enough but it does seem that (I was at) 60 is too high.

 

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Thinning the paint is something that everyone has their own formula for. I mix the paint and then hold the stir stick above the pot, If it drips for more than three seconds I add a bit more reducer until I reach that point. Two light coats a few minutes apart is much better than one heavier coat.       

 

Gadzooks! I was close to three time that. I thinned at +/- 20% based at Rusty's info. It sounds like I need to go thinner.

 

45 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

I have a pressure regulator and a filter connected directly to my gun. Keeps water out & allows me to control the pressure with out walking back to wall. I'm guessing you have a gravity feed gun, the tip pressure does not need to be as high as one would think for good atomization, 30 to 40psi at the gun inlet on my gun, might be higher on yours. Best just to experiment on a scrap piece. As far as reduction, you really should not have to change the reduction from a standard siphon feed to HVLP. 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/oilwater-separator-68246.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/125-psi-air-flow-regulator-with-gauge-62695.html

 

 

Again, apparently, I'm too high. Research, research, research...........and I still get it wrong. 

Do you use the drip method to determine reduction Dan?

Those exact two HF items are already on my list for my next trip there.

 

44 minutes ago, squonk said:

Yes HVLP means low pressure and high volume.  Also get your water separator and filter  as far away from the compressor as you can. 

 

For small jobs I paint with the Rustoleum paint /clear method I've explained many times. Comes out good with nothing to clean up. I use a TIP Tools turbine HVLP set up when I do a major paint project. Sounds like a vacuum cleaner running and I can paint anywhere there is 110 volts 

 

I'm planning on connecting the regulator and separator directly to the spray gun. Your Rusty rattle can spray/clear is outstanding. I have now done it several times and grin each time.

 

Great info guys! Thanks and keep it coming. I've got a few smaller pieces to continue practicing on. I'm just hoping I can get the major stuff to come out good. 

[Achto 29,016]

1 hour ago, Racinbob said:

Do you use the drip method to determine reduction Dan?

 

I always mix in accordance to the instructions on the can. The acrylic enamel that I use is 2 parts paint, 1 part reducer, hardener is mixed 16 : 1 as per instructions. 

 

NOW. If you really want to dial in your viscosity, then you can purchase a viscometer. This will help you ensure that your paint will have the correct viscosity every time.

 

One example.

https://www.amazon.com/Viscosity-Viscometer-Sprayer-Stainless-Finishes/dp/B0C1GHLC9Q/ref=asc_df_B0C1GHLC9Q?mcid=bd1be041733a3d1cb500187826f0f001&hvocijid=466981541635189204-B0C1GHLC9Q-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=466981541635189204&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019452&hvtargid=pla-2281435177818&psc=1

[oliver2-44 10,456]

Since your using oil base enamel I encourage you to add some of the Majic brand hardener you can get at tractor supply.