Wayne0 985 #1 Posted April 18 On replacing my front wheel bearings, I see the new ones are sealed. I did the "Greasy Pete" thing and popped the seals. One was almost empty! On to my question. The bearings are sealed, but there are grease fittings on the wheels. ???. I had greased them in the past, but now see no sense in it. Did WH have open bearings at one time and just kept the fittings? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,979 #2 Posted April 18 I'm only speculating here. As you know, Wheel Horse was well known for using "Standard Parts" whenever possible. That's why we can still get a lot of the bearings and seals without issues. It's possible that the wheels they were buying were outfitted with a grease fitting by the company that made them and even though Wheel Horse didn't need a grease fitting that was financially the best option. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,049 #3 Posted April 18 Greasable open type bearings are Old School. Go to the sealed versions - grease fitting is kept for nostalgia... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 985 #4 Posted April 18 (edited) On another note, my tie rods are sloppy as hell. I see some have replaced them with heim joints. What size should I order? Eric? BTW the spindles are fine. Edited April 18 by Wayne0 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,979 #5 Posted April 18 36 minutes ago, Wayne0 said: On another note, my tie rods are sloppy as hell. I see some have replaced them with heim joints. What size should I order? Eric? BTW the spindles are fine. If the hole in the spindle and the hole in the steering sector under the tractor are both still nice and round. Not oval or egg-shaped. Order 3/8 heim joints from McMaster Carr. If any of the holes is/are worn, order 7/16 joints instead. Bore out the holes just a touch. I've been getting double males with grease fittings in the middle. Right hand thread all across. The only issue is getting the shaft in between all of that stuff correct. It's been awhile since I've done it and I don't remember the measurements. I've had friends from here on Red Square make up different Center sections for me. If you have a lathe, your golden. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 13,893 #6 Posted April 18 (edited) Depending on your use of the tractor, I say pop the inner seals and use the grease fitting. Especially so for workers! Just as you said, today's bearings have very little grease in them. What is there will dry out in a season or less and the bearing will head immediately onto the long road to failure. My rule: Nothing today is bult to last. Act accordingly! Maintenance free? Horse hockey! Lifetime fill? Double horse hockey! No need to change the oil? Avoid this triple fecal slinger at all costs! You get my point. Applies nicely to sealed bearings. Edited April 18 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 985 #7 Posted April 18 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: If the hole in the spindle and the hole in the steering sector under the tractor are both still nice and round. Not oval or egg-shaped. Order 3/8 heim joints from McMaster Carr. If any of the holes is/are worn, order 7/16 joints instead. Bore out the holes just a touch. I've been getting double males with grease fittings in the middle. Right hand thread all across. The only issue is getting the shaft in between all of that stuff correct. It's been awhile since I've done it and I don't remember the measurements. I've had friends from here on Red Square make up different Center sections for me. If you have a lathe, your golden. No lathe, but I'm pretty resourceful! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 985 #8 Posted April 18 I assume threaded rod would work? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,104 #9 Posted April 18 @Wayne0 any bearing I get is usually searched for in the wide seal type , so its an easy lucas green clean out and regrease , another vital thing about front wheel bearings is to get some HILLMAN MACHINE BUSHINGS , 3/4 x 1-1/4 , have both 14 and 18 ga for a snug / solid rotational fit , hillman # s are 882394 18 ga and hillman # 882395 14 ga , have also gone over to heim joints on my steering years ago , don,t have a violent or off road set up , so have been experimenting with durability for years now with a 3/ 8 threaded rod set up , zero issues or failures , like a drop of SUPER LUBE on the heim joint ball , long use bearings with a polyurea green grease , like decks and mule drives , have never shown a failure point . the slow initial spin up is still the same quiet smooth way when first done . pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,979 #10 Posted April 18 23 minutes ago, Wayne0 said: I assume threaded rod would work? Yes it would. And in fact if you don't necessarily like the look of the threaded Rod as your tie rod mechanism you can surround it with a piece of tubing. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
