Yet another foot control fabrication

[Bill D 2,137]

32 minutes ago, cleat said:

When this tractor gets it's overhaul I will be removing the column shift lever and the safety neutral switch

 

I feel safe doing this because the tractor now reverts to neutral unless you are pushing on the foot pedal.

 

This foot control shows installation with a column shift tractor.If you have a motion control that is between your legs then you will be unbolting and removing the motion control lever from the motion cam.

The neutral safety switch is mounted on the shift plate and will need to either have the switch taped down or the wires jumpered in order for the tractor to start (purple and light blue in the case of a 520).

 

Important....do not run the tractor with the neutral safety switch bypassed until you are absolutely sure the tractor returns to neutral with the foot pedal released.

 

Another option I have been toying with is wiring the parking brake switch into the start circuit so tractor will only start with brake locked on.

I jumped the neutral safety switch out on my 416H since I'm the only user and my pedal design also returns to neutral automatically. 

 

The easiest modification would be to install a neutral safety switch as found on older hydros such as the GT1800, C175, etc. The square hole is already punched out in the hoodstand.  This requires you to depress the brake pedal to start the engine.  This is the same switch used on the 8 speeds for the clutch interlock switch.  Simply splice in some wires to extend the wiring to reach the switch.  A new switch is available online.  It's a common refrigerator fan switch with normally open contacts.  There's also a universal option with both NO and NC contacts.

Edited April 22 by Bill D

[cleat 7,123]

6 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Curious... not a hydro guy, but I assume need for adjustment periodically or if it comes out if adjustment, should a safety switch not be maintained?

Once the neutral position is set I have never had one move out of position.

If it got a little out of adjustment and the tractor was started worst case would be that it might creep ahead or back slowly.

 

[cleat 7,123]

6 hours ago, Bill D said:

I jumped the neutral safety switch out on my 416H since I'm the only user and my pedal design also returns to neutral automatically. 

 

The easiest modification would be to install a neutral safety switch as found on older hydros such as the GT1800, C175, etc. The square hole is already punched out in the hoodstand.  This requires you to depress the brake pedal to start the engine.  This is the same switch used on the 8 speeds for the clutch interlock switch.  Simply splice in some wires to extend the wiring to reach the switch.  A new switch is available online.  It's a common refrigerator fan switch with normally open contacts.  There's also a universal option with both NO and NC contacts.

 

I have two 8 speed machines so I know about the switch you are talking about.

The hydro tractor brake linkage is quite different but I see the square hole down low on the left side where a switch could be added.

Some day I will do some playing around with this idea.

 

 

I often wondered why the brake rod had that flat plate on it, I guess now I know.

 

Thanks for the idea.

 

I guess a guy could even add brake lights to the rear fender if inclined.

 

 

[Wayne0 1,027]

On 4/22/2025 at 4:26 PM, cleat said:

 

I have two 8 speed machines so I know about the switch you are talking about.

The hydro tractor brake linkage is quite different but I see the square hole down low on the left side where a switch could be added.

Some day I will do some playing around with this idea.

 

 

I often wondered why the brake rod had that flat plate on it, I guess now I know.

 

Thanks for the idea.

 

I guess a guy could even add brake lights to the rear fender if inclined.

 

 

My Work Horse has a switch there.

[cleat 7,123]

Can you post some pictures. 

 

Do you need to press the brake pedal to start it?

 

[cleat 7,123]

Angle iron bracket for auto center lever made up.

The one in the tractor currently works properly, I am mainly showing it's construction.

 

Here are the plans to make this.

 

 

 

[cleat 7,123]

Auto centering bracket bead blasted, painted , and is now ready to assemble.

 

Auto centering bracket assembled.

 

Cam pivot lever bead blasted and painted.

 

Reverse pedal final grinding complete.

Pedal was then bead blasted and is now ready for paint.

 

[cleat 7,123]

Foot pedal and plate bead blasted.

areas where plate and pedal make contact have been painted.

Plate bolted to pedal with an old bolt and nut. This is because plate is a tight slip fit onto the pedal and will damage paint if installed later.

Foot pedal and plate assembly is now ready for paint.

 

[cleat 7,123]

Foot pedal control rod ready to be assembled.

 

Heim joint and lock nut installed.

 

Cotter pin, washers, and hairpin clip installed.

 

Control rod assembled.

[Bill D 2,137]

Beautiful work.  What did you use to make those bends in the rod?

[cleat 7,123]

I had the rod clamped in my bench vise then heated red hot using map gas torch and bent by hand ( not touching the hot spot of course ).

[cleat 7,123]

Foot pedal and plate painted and final bolted together ready for grease fitting to be installed.

 

Foot pedal grease fitting installed.

Pedal is now complete with the exception of the reverse pedal that can be bolted on later.

 

[cleat 7,123]

Reverse pedal painted and complete.

 

[cleat 7,123]

Here is the complete foot pedal assembly.

 

[cleat 7,123]

Here is a video showing how the pedal returns to neutral automatically.

 

 

Here is a video showing the foot pedal in operation.

My lovely wife filmed this for me.

 

 

Note that this is with the pedal not yet painted.

Edited May 12 by cleat

[Bill D 2,137]

Beautiful work as always! 

 

Would you mind measuring the travel from neutral to full reverse and neutral to full forward?  I'm tinkering with some of my pedal designs and could use this information if you don't mind sharing. 

 

Also, did you have to grind out the notch in the control cam to keep it from hitting the fitting coming out of the hydro pump when in full reverse?  I've had to do this on both of my 416H's.

[cleat 7,123]

The foot control I have been showing in this last build is currently all apart for painting and will get re-installed when the tractor gets rebuilt.

However, here are measurements from a foot control I built a couple of years ago that is virtually the same.

 

Here is the neutral measurements.

I measured from the bottom edge of the fender as shown.

 

Full reverse.

 

Full forward.

 

If the cam block is hitting going into reverse then you need to lengthen the control rod by unscrewing it a turn or two.

You can then set neutral by adjusting the eccentric at the rear end.

 

[cleat 7,123]

I have a couple of these to sell as well.

Here is the link to the classified ad.

 

 

[Bill D 2,137]

12 hours ago, cleat said:

I have a couple of these to sell as well.

Here is the link to the classified ad.

 

 

If I wasn't having so much fun building my own hydro pedals, I would definitely buy one of your kits.   Fabulous job as always. 

[ebinmaine 71,248]

Beautiful work Cleat. Very impressive.  

[cleat 7,123]

Here is the installation instructions for Matt's kit which is similar.

 

Wheel Horse Hydro Foot Pedal Instructions.pdf

 

Wheel Horse Hydro Foot Pedal Instructions Early version.pdf