earlleecliffton 37 #1 Posted September 11, 2009 i want to put 240 lbs per wheel ,will that be hard on the drive train? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #2 Posted September 11, 2009 That much weight will limit all wheel spin and make it easier to break something. That just my opinion it's worth what you payed for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
earlleecliffton 37 #3 Posted September 11, 2009 its for pushing snow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,130 #4 Posted September 11, 2009 That's a lot of weight for pushing snow, I use the WH 50# weights with chains and it works just fine. 480lbs is a lot of extra weight and I would have to believe that it would put some strain on the drive line just to move it all the time? Just a suggestion, if the snow fall is that big, maybe a snow blower is a better choice? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #5 Posted September 11, 2009 I have 75lb on each wheel on my plow tractor and that is more than plenty, my snowblower tractor has 50lb weights and does just fine. I also think you would be putting alot of strain on the trans and axles, and the key in the hubs, plus the power just to turn that much weight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #6 Posted September 11, 2009 I agree with the others, I plowed last year with 50 lbs of washer fluid in each rear tire, using turfs with chains. And only 160 lbs in the seat.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W9JAB 156 #7 Posted September 11, 2009 :hide: WOW, you must be one skinny butt dude, Also you must need to push alot of snow, Do you have the room to move it? You may want to rethink that and look for a blower! Just one of my hair-brain thoughts :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
earlleecliffton 37 #8 Posted September 11, 2009 thanx for input. i think ill cut it back to 240. and no no im 5,5 220 myself. just want show neiborhood what a real tractor will push. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,981 #9 Posted September 11, 2009 thanx for input. i think ill cut it back to 240. and no no im 5,5 220 myself. just want show neiborhood what a real tractor will push. None of my business, but even that much weight may have you pushing around a broken plow blade... Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raider12 13 #10 Posted September 11, 2009 With that much weight I would bet you would have to at least replace the key in the axles more offten than you will want too. And that is NO FUn when your in snowup to your butt and the tractor won't move underit's own power. I have 50# on each of my wheels and when plowing snow, I will usually sheer one off each winter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GlenPettit 1,714 #11 Posted September 11, 2009 Don't forget to put some of the weight on the front wheels (mainly for steering, keeping the blade down, and for control), 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
st_croix_tractors 0 #12 Posted September 11, 2009 What size tractor we talking about here earlleecliffton? Sometimes adding any extra weight to the tires will cook a trans. in minutes, Some cases 480lb may not be enough, my 2060 has 500lb in the back and thats a 9100lb tractor. Personally I wouldn't add any wheel weights to any garden tractor. In my opinion The weight should be added to the machine not the axle. Adding weight to a 1" axle only puts more pressure on the gears and bearings. Once you cook a bearing either the gear shaft end or bearing housing is junk. Pretty unlikely you will notice the vibration of the shaft slopping around in the housing or see the bearing dust in ur trans oil unless you split your trans. on a weekly basis. I split and repair and mod trans. on a average of 2 a week and have for 8 years. Ive seen my share of broken pinon gears, stripped bull gears, stripped axle gears and broke, and cracked axle housings, and webbing. If you need more traction than maybe you could choose a more aggressive lug tractor tire. Or perhaps chains. I use chains on my b-80 with no wait I'm 190lb and I have no trouble moving snow. Just try to keep in mind when plowing snow or working your tractor, "somethings got to give" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
earlleecliffton 37 #13 Posted September 11, 2009 its a raider 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 13 #14 Posted September 12, 2009 Unsprung(wheel) weight is the BEST place to have it.Sprung weight adds strain to wheel bearings or bushings and also at attatchment points between the frame and the trans. Some weight is good,more is better(most times) but too much can add to any damage caused by ramming around with a snow blade.....and you WILL . Most people believe weight causes problems but what actually happens is you lessen the tendency to lose traction before running out of power and then you find the weak link.....transmission gears,clutches,belts,snow blade frames etc. So to answer your original question,no,lots of weight(unsprung) will not tear up your drive train,the increase in traction will. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,981 #15 Posted September 12, 2009 its a raider 10 The Raider 10 had the 10 pinion differential in the tranny. You most definitely don't want the kind of weight you're talking about on that machine. As Rick said "Something's gotta give", and chances are it will be that differential- but only if you use all that weight. The differential in your tractor was designed to be limited slip, so a set of chains will probably be all you ever need. May even surprise you a bit. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
st_croix_tractors 0 #16 Posted September 12, 2009 Here is a 440lb 1965 655 with a 8hp briggs. No wait added other than the push plow and the front sway bar for the plow. There isn't a corn field around in the coldest day in feb. that will stop this horse. I bash snowbanks in 3 high and all you see is a white out. You don't need weights, get your self a set of chains and throw a case of beer on the hood, crank her up to 2800-3000rpm and enjoy yourself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #17 Posted September 12, 2009 Earl looks like your getting some good advice here. 200+ pounds per wheel is doable & I have seen GT's with that on them. Mostly in the pulling crowd. But....when something lets go it's going to be ugly & you also have to remove all that weight before it can be fixed. I have a set of 22" tires...the size thats stock on some B & 300 series. They are filled with a solid silicone rubber like material & give just like air in a tire, but weight in at 100 pounds a piece. I have a good set of two link chains on them & they give me all the traction I need for "controlled" snow removeall/plowing. Traction adding weight is a great idea & works.....but no need to over do it. Assumeing your 240 pound weights are sectional & not just one peice..."hate to mount those on 12" wheels!"...start with a more modest weight with some good chains & work your way up. I'm guessing 50 to 100 pounds a wheel are all you'll need weather filling or bolt on weights. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 133 #18 Posted September 12, 2009 Earl I'm with the others here, add a good set of chains and work your way up. Have you used this to plow before makeing you think you need more weight? There has been alot of discusion on here about what kind of tires to use and everyone seems to like something differant. I use lug tires with chains and do show the neiborhood what a Wheel Horse is all about. Hate to see you hurt your horse so good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
earlleecliffton 37 #19 Posted September 12, 2009 thanx for all the inputs. no i havent used it to plow yet . my first wh,have wanted one for a long time .just want too be ready when snow gets here .would like to not use chains if i dont have to Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,909 #20 Posted September 12, 2009 i want to put 240 lbs per wheel ,will that be hard on the drive train? I have 30lbs on the front and 50lbs on the rear this is a great combo. this does not tell the tractor where to go with this set up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,909 #21 Posted September 12, 2009 Here is a 440lb 1965 655 with a 8hp briggs. No wait added other than the push plow and the front sway bar for the plow. There isn't a corn field around in the coldest day in feb. that will stop this horse. I bash snowbanks in 3 high and all you see is a white out. You don't need weights, get your self a set of chains and throw a case of beer on the hood, crank her up to 2800-3000rpm and enjoy yourself. nice pick!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #22 Posted September 13, 2009 One note to remember, your tractor is probably a fair bit heavier without any added weight than anything the neighbors might have anyway. I've got both my 1277's set up with liquid-filled front/rear tires as well as weights on all 4 tires (bolt-on) . Yes, I've had key problems in the rear but keep a tight eye on them constantly. Been doing a lot of dirt work with both of them and they are quite literally unstoppable. Already got one blade bent up a bit , nothing serious yet but it will need to be repaired before winter. Also, bent the snot out of my 40" mid-mount grader blade since I ran a solid lift link on it and can literally lift the front axle off the ground with down pressure. This kind of stress leads to frame cracks and both are getting inspected nearly every time they go out to work. I don't mind so much since I have the tools/ability to repair them , but if the ground work needed is too heavy I just get someone with a bigger machine to handle it . I have never, even this last winter needed any help plowing snow, I can build mounds so large the local city dumptruck can't move them once they freeze. Just add a pair of weights, maybe some chains and you won't believe what that 10hp will move. Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #23 Posted September 13, 2009 would like to not use chains if i dont have to If I had to choose, I think I'd go for chains before weight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
st_croix_tractors 0 #24 Posted September 13, 2009 Thanks T1257 That horse is a blast sometimes i forget its a tractor. My buddies come over with there 4x4 atv's and i can ride a longer wheelie on my tractor than they can on atvs Notice the hand clutch? Yeah i removed it from the peddle and made it so i can reach it when i flip it over lol I use lug tires with chains and do show the neiborhood what a Wheel Horse is all about I can build mounds so large the local city dumptruck can't move them once they freeze That's comical!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim_M 178 #25 Posted September 13, 2009 would like to not use chains if i dont have to If you're worried about doing damage to pavement with your chains, you might consider trying rubber tire chains. I've never used them so I can't say how well they work, but I'm sure someone here has tried them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites