Got another one. A 416 this time.

[cleat 8,374]

20 hours ago, Bill D said:

I'd consider replacing the tin retaining nut for the choke cable with a 3/8-24 keps nut.  Much sturdier installation. Also, consider drilling the rivet out on the throttle lever pivot and replace it with a bolt and nut to allow adjustment of the throttle lever tension.  I do that on all my tractors.

 

I thought about that but the nut seemed to tighten up fine.

I did replace that stamped nut for a regular fine thread nut on the GT1600 project last year because the stamped one would not tighten.

 

Throttle if anything is too tight so I left it for now.

I usually replace the rivet with a bolt and nyloc nut as well.

This is one I tore down and bolted up  a while ago.

 

Edited January 5 by cleat

[cleat 8,374]

Fuel line ready to install.

 

Fuel line fed through from rear into rough position.

 

Fuel line installed to pump inlet.

 

Fuel line fastened in place.

It looks like it touches the fender support bracket in the pics but it does not.

 

[cleat 8,374]

Fuel shutoff valve disassembled and cleaned.

O ring on the stem seems fine but I will replace it later if it drips.

 

Old cracked bushing that I pulled out of the tank.

This was not leaking last summer, I don't know why.

 

Fuel shutoff valve ready to be installed with new bushing.

All valve threads were lightly lubricated with silicone grease.

 

Fuel tank ready for bushing to be installed.

 

Fuel valve bushing installed into fuel tank.

I just pushed this in dry.

 

Fuel shutoff valve installed into new bushing.

I just moistened the valve where it enters the bushing with a tiny bit of soapy water to help it slide in.

 

[cleat 8,374]

Fuel tank ready to install.

Tank has had the bottom threaded bolting locations cleaned out with a bottoming tap.

Fuel tank has been treated with "back to black".

 

Fuel tank slid into position.

 

Fuel tank bolted into place.

 

Fuel line cut to proper length then connected to tank shutoff valve.

 

Fuel tank and line assembly complete.

 

This is the tool I use to cut fuel line.

I like a nice square cut and this tool delivers.

 

Edited January 5 by cleat

[lynnmor 8,384]

No fuel gauge in cap for this model?

[cleat 8,374]

6 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

No fuel gauge in cap for this model?

 

Nope, this is the cap it came with,

I normally wire in a fuel gauge but I am out of tanks with sender units.

This tractor will likely see limited use so not an issue.

 

[cleat 8,374]

PTO pivot plate ready to be assembled.

 

Bolt and washer installed into PTO pivot plate bushing.

 

PTO pivot plate bushing greased.

 

PTO pivot plate bushing assembly installed into engine bracket.

 

PTO pivot plate greased.

 

PTO pivot plate assembled and bolt torqued to 30 ft/lb.

 

[cleat 8,374]

Muffler ready to install.

 

Muffler gaskets used.

 

Engine ready for muffler to be installed.

 

Muffler gaskets sat in place.

 

Muffler bolted into place and torqued to 120 in-lb.

Bolt threads have a coat of never seize.

 

PTO pivot plate assembly ready to be installed.

I used 1-1/4" bolts to maximize thread engagement into engine block.

 

Engine ready for PTO pivot plate assembly to be installed.

 

PTO pivot plate assembly installed and torqued to 20 ft/lb.

 

Muffler and PTO pivot plate fully installed.

 

[cleat 8,374]

Colonoscopy was done yesterday, they just cut out 3 benign polyps.

It is good to be able to eat again.

 

Anyways, back to tractor work today.

 

PTO hoop ready to install.

 

PTO hoop ends and clip greased.

I did this both for ease of operation and to hopefully reduce or eliminate paint damage during installation.

 

PTO hoop installed.

 

[cleat 8,374]

PTO clutch plate ready to be installed.

 

PTO clutch plate slid onto bearing race and bolt holes aligned.

 

PTO clutch plate retainers inserted into bearing race groove then bolts partly threaded in.

 

PTO clutch plate bolts torqued to 96 in/lb.

 

Wife caught me torquing the PTO clutch plate bolts.

 

[cleat 8,374]

This was done last summer.

 

PTO pulley assembly ready to install.

 

PTO inner bearing and seal greased with full synthetic EP220.

 

PTO inner bearing race lightly greased.

 

PTO pulley slid onto bearing race.

I had to rotate and gently slide it on to let the air out that wanted to push it off again.

 

PTO pin installed.

 

PTO trunion screwed onto lightly greased rod.

 

PTO trunion installed into pivot plate after screwing it in just enough that the clutch engages with a little tension.

This may need to get adjusted again later once an implement is hooked up.

Note the washer under the hairpin clip, I may even put in a thicker one to take up all excess play.

 

PTO in disengaged position.

Note the gap between the pulley and clutch.

 

PTO in engaged position.

Note that the pulley is tight to clutch plate.

 

[cleat 8,374]

Hood stand plate speed nuts ready to install.

 

Hood stand plate speed nuts installed.

 

Hood stand plate wiring connected.

 

Hood stand plate stainless steel screws ready to install.

 

Hood stand plate installed.

Screws have a light coat of never seize.

 

Tractor hoodstand wiring complete.

No wires are contacting any moving parts.

 

[lynnmor 8,384]

51 minutes ago, cleat said:

This was done last summer.

 

 

 

 

Why does this look like the nose is straight instead of tapered?  Is it just an optical illusion?

[cleat 8,374]

9 pin connectors greased and plugged together.

It is a hard push to get them to latch because of the rubber gasket.

 

Voltage regulator hooked up.

 

Engine wire harness complete.

 

[cleat 8,374]

21 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Why does this look like the nose is straight instead of tapered?  Is it just an optical illusion?

 

It is tapered.

 

[lynnmor 8,384]

1 minute ago, cleat said:

 

It is tapered.

 

 

OK, it just looked strange on the view posted.

[cleat 8,374]

Exhaust covers and air deflector ready to be installed.

 

Engine ready for exhaust covers to be installed.

 

Right exhaust cover tucked under side cover as it was originally.

 

Right engine lifting lug loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers.

Both lifting lug bolts have never seize applied to threads.

 

Left engine lifting lug loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers.

Note the exhaust cover is on top of the side cover on this side.

 

Both engine lifting lugs loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers.

 

Air deflector sat on muffler and loosely bolted to exhaust covers.

 

Chrome muffler cover attached loosely with the two center screws.

 

Chrome muffler cover attached to muffler with all 6 screws, this also firmly attaches the air deflector to the muffler.

Note, all screws have never seize on the threads.

 

Air deflector bolts tightened making sure that there is no contact between the exhaust covers and the intake manifold.

 

Exhaust covers and air deflector installed.

 

[cleat 8,374]

Foot control pedal assembly ready to install.

 

Foot control rod end ready for Heim joint.

 

Foot control rod end Heim joint jamb nut screwed on fully.

 

Foot control rod end threads greased.

 

Foot control rod end Heim joint screwed on fully (this will be adjusted later).

 

Foot control pedal slid onto shaft.

 

Foot control pedal retainer installed .

Retainer is just a large nut drilled out and a set screw added.

 

Heim joint bolted to foot pedal.

 

Heim joint bolted to foot pedal with temporary non locking nut (a nyloc nut will be installed once final adjustments are complete).

 

[cleat 8,374]

Lift. PTO, and Tach grips ready to install.

 

Mid tach latch ready for grip to be installed.

 

Mid tach latch grip installed.

 

PTO lever ready for grip to be installed.

 

PTO lever grip installed.

You will note that the grips used are the older style as I don't care for the larger new style ones.

 

Hydraulic valve control handle ready for grip to be installed.

 

Hydraulic valve control handle silicone applied to retain grip.

 

Hydraulic valve control handle grip installed.

 

[cleat 8,374]

Throttle knob ready to install.

I like the T style knobs the best.

 

Hair dryer used to heat knob for easier installation and so knob does not crack.

This little hair dryer is used a lot in the shop whenever I feel the heat gun might cause damage.

 

Block of wood and dead blow hammer used to tap knob into position.

 

Throttle knob installed.

 

Edited Sunday at 06:33 PM by cleat

[Handy Don 15,624]

Looking good, there!

For the last one I replaced, I put a dab of hot glue in the knob slot before tapping it back onto the lever arm.

Edited Sunday at 04:48 PM by Handy Don

[cleat 8,374]

Battery tray and drain tube ready to install.

 

Battery drain tube sat into place and slid into clip under tractor.

 

Battery tray sat into place.

 

Battery drain tube connected to battery tray.

I heated it a bit with a hair dryer to help it slide on easier.

 

Battery drain tube clipped into place under tractor.

 

Battery hold down assembly ready to install.

 

Battery hold down rods have rubber sleeves installed so the rods don't slip down out of place when not connected to the battery hold down.

These are just pieces of rubber vacuum tubing.

 

Battery hold down rods hooked into place on each side of battery tray.

 

Battery ready to install.

 

Battery clamped into place.

 

Battery terminal hardware ready to install.

 

Battery installed.

 

 

[cleat 8,374]

Engine oil used. I added 1.6 liters of oil.

I have already installed a Motorcraft FL-400S filter on the engine.

This filter seems to meet all the required specs and should be decent quality.

Also cheaper than the NAPA gold filter.

 

Ready to add fluid to hydro.

There is around 3.5 liters of oil in this jug.

 

Funnel used to add fluid to hydro.

 

Funnel installed into hydro dipstick tube.

Note that the filter not installed yet so air can escape to aid in fluid flow into hydro.

 

After I added the 3.5 liters of oil I am now ready to install the filter.

Hydro filter ready to install.

 

Hydro filter gasket lightly oiled.

 

Hydro filter installed.

 

I then cranked over the engine with the choke and throttle wide open and spark plugs not installed so it cranks as easy as possible

I cranked the engine until the oil light went out indicating oil filter was filled and engine was getting oil pressure.

 

Also while cranking I activated the hydraulic lift up and down to purge air out of that system

I then pushed the foot pedal forward and reverse to bleed air out of the hydro motor while cranking.

 

Seems like a lot of cranking but this went quickly and starter never got hot.

 

After this I checked fluid levels and just had to add maybe 1/4 liter of oil to hydro and engine oil is perfect.