Got another one. A 416 this time.

[lynnmor 8,288]

3 hours ago, cleat said:

 

Nope, not even close.

 

Looks like you need to jump start your OCD, the 25 fuse is in backwards and there is a debris on the fuse block.  

[cleat 8,148]

16 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Looks like you need to jump start your OCD, the 25 fuse is in backwards and there is a debris on the fuse block.  

Ha Ha

 

That will be fixed when the wire harness is officially installed. 

😃

[Handy Don 15,313]

23 minutes ago, cleat said:

That will be fixed when the wire harness is officially installed. 

😃

Mighty glad to hear that! 

[cleat 8,148]

Transmission dipstick tube ready to be installed.

 

 

Transmission dipstick tube liquid Teflon applied.

 

 

Transmission ready for tube to be installed.

 

 

Transmission tube screwed in then tightened using a 7/8" crowfoot wrench, extension, and ratchet.

 

 

Transmission dipstick and silicone grease ready to be applied.

 

 

Transmission dipstick silicone grease applied to rubber seal.

 

 

Transmission dipstick installed.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Hydraulic valve control handle assembly ready to install.

 

Tractor ready for Hydraulic valve control handle assembly to be installed.

 

Hydraulic valve control handle 5983 nyliner bushings installed.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Spirol pin partly installed into the control rod bracket after a light coat of never seize was applied.

Make sure pin is installed just almost to the point of entering the center hole but not quite.

 

Towels placed down to protect paint.

 

Hydraulic valve control handle slid through top nyliner then control arm slid on.

 

Control arm aligned to hole in control handle then a screw of proper diameter was installed to locate proper location.

 

Control arm spirol pin pushed in using vice grips.

Do not hammer pin in because that may damage the nyliner bushing.

 

Lift bar and pin ready to install.

 

Lift bar and pin installed.

 

Control rod bracket ready to install.

 

Control rod bracket installed.

Make sure it is in correct position to hold handle down when installed.

I also put a little grease on the control rod where it passes through the control arm.

 

Control rod spring ready to install.

 

Control rod spring installed after a light coat of never size applied to control rod threads.

Spring nut tightened just enough to eliminate free play but ensure spring does not bottom out when control handle pushed fully forward.

 

Hydraulic valve assembly fully installed.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Fuse block contacts cleaned.

 

Fuse block contacts greased with white lithium grease (that grease will be used on all wire harness connections).

 

Rest of wire harness connectors greased.

 

Wire harness ready to be installed.

 

Tractor ready for wire harness to be installed.

 

Edge trim ready to be installed to bottom of front cover.

 

Wire harness fished under front plate and roughly in position.

 

Fuse block bolted to bracket.

 

Relay connector bolted to front plate.

 

Fuse block and relay connector installed.

 

Throttle cable clip ready to be installed.

 

Ground wires and throttle clip bolted down also PTO switch wire connected.

 

Wire harness routing also showing edge trim installed.

 

Wire harness clipped to hoodstand.

 

Wire harness fastened to battery support.

 

Wire harness fastened to battery support also taillight wire clipped to hoodstand.

 

Taillight wire passed by hydro and fastened to hydro control plate.

 

Wire harness installed.

 

Fuses and start relay installed.

Note there are only two fuses because the charge fuse is now to be inline by the starter motor solenoid.

 

 

 

Edited December 20 by cleat

[cleat 8,148]

Indicator board ready for assembly.

 

Indicator wire harness bolted to bracket.

 

Indicator wire harness socket greased.

This is the whit grease I used.

 

Indicator board assembled.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Indicator board ready to be installed.

 

Tractor ready for indicator board to be installed.

 

Indicator board installed.

 

Indicator board plugged in.

Wire harness will be properly orientated once all connections are made.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Indicator lens and bushings ready to install.

 

Indicator bushings installed.

 

Indicator lens and bushings installed.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Indicator test switch ready to be installed.

 

Indicator test switch inner nut installed and tightened.

 

Indicator test switch back washer installed.

 

Indicator test switch installed.

I will plug this in once final wire harness connections are made and the throttle cable is installed.

 

Indicator board and test switch installed.

 

Edited December 21 by cleat

[cleat 8,148]

Hood stand plate ready to assemble.

 

Headlight switch installed onto hood stand plate.

 

Ignition switch installed onto hood stand plate.

 

Volt gauge installed onto hood stand plate.

 

Hour meter installed onto hood stand plate.

This is the original hour meter from this tractor but I put a piece of black tape over the Toro name (I hope it stays on).

 

Edited Monday at 02:13 PM by cleat

[cleat 8,148]

Hood stand plate sat aside for now.

 

Edge trim ready to be installed to top of console.

 

Edge trim installed to top of console.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Hood latch ready to install.

Rivets are 1/8" x 0.3" long.

 

Hood latch top rivet loosely installed IE pulled in most of the way but not all the way using the rivet gun.

 

Hood latch lower rivet installed fully then the top rivet fully installed.

This ensures that the latch can be properly aligned and both rivets will easily be installed into the holes.

Same procedure followed for the other side.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Engine wire harness ready to install.

All push on connectors greased.

 

Engine ready for wire harness.

 

Engine wire harness plugged into oil pressure switch and clipped into place.

 

Engine wire harness loosely connected to starter motor solenoid.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Tapped and blew out intake and exhaust mounting holes.

Screwed a bolt in and measured max thread engagement.

Intake 0.70"

Exhaust 0.60"

 

Best bolt length for mounting the intake to block that I have on hand is 2" (that gives me about 0.55" of thread engagement).

 

I will figure exhaust bolt length when I go to install the muffler.

 

 

[lynnmor 8,288]

3 minutes ago, cleat said:

Tapped and blew out intake and exhaust mounting holes.

Screwed a bolt in and measured max thread engagement.

Intake 0.70"

Exhaust 0.60"

 

Best bolt length for mounting the intake to block that I have on hand is 2" (that gives me about 0.55" of thread engagement).

 

I will figure exhaust bolt length when I go to install the muffler.

 

I believe that the thread depth varies, I always use a bottom tap to get them as deep as possible.  That cast aluminum strips easily so I want the maximum amount of thread.

[cleat 8,148]

43 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I believe that the thread depth varies, I always use a bottom tap to get them as deep as possible.  That cast aluminum strips easily so I want the maximum amount of thread.

 

Yep, that is what I did.

 

[cleat 8,148]

Spare carb I had kicking around from a 416 I bought with a bad engine.

This is the non-emissions carb that I use on all of my Onan engines.

 

The 416H in this thread is a 1996 so it came with the emissions carb that I am not going to use.

 

Carb is taken as far apart as I need to (I hope) for cleaning.

 

[WHX?? 53,446]

May not be a big deal but a wear mark on the pulse hose .... 

[cleat 8,148]

16 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

May not be a big deal but a wear mark on the pulse hose .... 

 

Well, I can't take a chance on that hose failing or kinking so I replaced it as per WHX??.

New hose may look the wrong length in the picture but it is exactly the same as the original.

 

 

Edited 8 hours ago by cleat

[lynnmor 8,288]

7 hours ago, cleat said:

 

Well, I can't take a chance on that hose failing or kinking so I replaced it as per WHX??.

New hose may look the wrong length in the picture but it is exactly the same as the original.

 

 

 

I always leave that hose a couple of inches too long and then cut it to length at final assembly.  The extra length makes assembly easy and then I can look inside to see how it lays before cutting to length.  The length is very important to keep the hose away from everything.