cleat 7,702 #101 Posted October 12 Valve covers and bolts bead blasted and painted. Sealing washers cleaned and sanded smooth. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #102 Posted October 20 Valves were pulled and lapped until a nice contact pattern was established. Valve clearance set (0.005 intake, 0.013 exhaust) I used this stepped feeler gauge set that makes it so easy, just use the stepped down part to set gap and the thicker part should not fit in. I use these thin wrenches to adjust the tappets. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #103 Posted October 20 Valve covers installed and bolts torqued to 18 in/lb I used this 1/4" drive torque wrench and these gaskets. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #104 Posted October 20 Block cleaned and degreased. I did not scrape too much as I was afraid of scratching it. Head bolt threads were chased with a tap to be sure they were clear for proper torque. Head bolts and gaskets ready. Head bolts were lightly oiled both on the threads and under the head then the head was loosely bolted on. Head was then torqued to 60 in/lb then 120 in/lb then to final torque of 160 in/lb following the sequence in the engine manual. 2 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #105 Posted October 27 Terry's fantastic decals came in today for both this 416 and the 42"RD deck I refurbished this past summer. My tractors would be so incomplete looking without Terry's decals. Thanks again Terry. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,709 #106 Posted October 27 Niiiiice!! 7 minutes ago, cleat said: My tractors would be so incomplete looking without Terry's decals. Thanks again Terry. Absolutely agreed! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 2,111 #107 Posted October 27 3 hours ago, cleat said: Terry's fantastic decals came in today for both this 416 and the 42"RD deck I refurbished this past summer. My tractors would be so incomplete looking without Terry's decals. Thanks again Terry. Definitely, I’m on my third tractor with decals coming from him. I wouldn’t go anywhere else. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #108 Posted November 1 Hood-stand plate and console decals punched and applied. 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #109 Posted November 2 Hood-stand plate decals fully applied. Hydraulic control handle grip decal applied after filing the grip nice and smooth where the decal goes (it had slightly raised areas where the old lettering was). 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 10,607 #110 Posted November 2 As for me, my favorite part of any restoration is applying the decals. Really just finishes it off and says you’re done ✔️ 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 15,798 #111 Posted November 3 4 hours ago, c-series don said: As for me, my favorite part of any restoration is applying the decals. Really just finishes it off and says you’re done Me too. You finally see how it all comes together once the stickers go on! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 2,111 #112 Posted November 3 6 hours ago, c-series don said: As for me, my favorite part of any restoration is applying the decals. Really just finishes it off and says you’re done ✔️ Same here, it almost is like putting a cherry on top. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #113 Posted 10 hours ago (edited) Today I thought I might as well fix up the wire harnesses for the tractor and engine. I use these sealed 9 pin connectors that I sourced on ebay. They are the same as the OEM connectors but use seals on the wires and a gasket between the connectors. 9 pin connector cut off of engine harness. One new terminal installed. All new terminals installed. 9 pin connector on engine harness complete. Of course I removed the charge wire from the 9 pin and routed it to the battery cable connection at the starter solenoid through a sealed 30A fuse. Now onto the tractor wire harness. here is the way the 9 pin looked when removed. 9 pin on tractor harness replaced. Now I modified the wire harness to suit me. Seat switch has been removed due to my getting my butt off of the seat on steep hills so I can't use it. Neutral switch has been removed because my foot control returns to neutral position automatically Parking brake switch has been eliminated because I can't push down the foot control pedal with it on anyways. Here is the harness complete and ready to be installed. Edited 10 hours ago by cleat 1 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,709 #114 Posted 5 hours ago 4 hours ago, cleat said: Here is the harness complete Super clean and neat. Very nice work. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,020 #115 Posted 4 hours ago Nice work but too much electrical stuff for a garden tractor... 20 WHs no 520s 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #116 Posted 3 hours ago 47 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Nice work but too much electrical stuff for a garden tractor... 20 WHs no 520s This one is a 416 so definitely a simpler harness with only an hour meter and a volt gauge. I must admit that the GT1600 and 312 harnesses are simpler yet. The 520's are a bit more complex but I do like looking at all the gauges. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
