cleat 7,702 #76 Posted September 18 1 minute ago, Bill D said: Now would be a good time to reinforce that area. I make some reinforcement pieces using 1.5" x 2" angle stock. I did that to one of mine that had the bolting locations completely broken off. This is on a 520-8 but those crack spots are the same. Any that I have welded then bolted back together using large thick fender washers underneath have never cracked again. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #77 Posted September 18 Hoodstand welds ground flat then entirely sanded. Hoodstand primed. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #78 Posted September 19 Belt guard painted. Left side cover painted. Lower steering shaft painted. Fender painted. Of course the wind came up and blew some tree bits into the paint. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #79 Posted September 19 Hoodstand bottom side painted. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #80 Posted September 19 Hoodstand painted. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #81 Posted September 29 Started taking engine apart for cleaning. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,105 #82 Posted September 29 2 hours ago, cleat said: Started taking engine apart for cleaning. This would be a great opportunity to clean out the carburetor, inspect the intake manifold for leaks, glass bead and paint the exhaust, decarbon the heads and adjust the valves. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,367 #83 Posted September 29 Also consider running an extra wire from the battery positive on the starter directly to the voltage regulator. This takes the load off of the 9 pin connector. Also consider using a Packard connector in place of the 9 pin connector. Only 7 wires are used on a 416. I used a 5 pin and 2 pin Packard connector to fix a burnt 9 pin on one of my 416H's. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #84 Posted September 29 4 hours ago, lynnmor said: This would be a great opportunity to clean out the carburetor, inspect the intake manifold for leaks, glass bead and paint the exhaust, decarbon the heads and adjust the valves. Yep. All that and more will happen once the engine is cleaned up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #85 Posted September 29 25 minutes ago, Bill D said: Also consider running an extra wire from the battery positive on the starter directly to the voltage regulator. This takes the load off of the 9 pin connector. Also consider using a Packard connector in place of the 9 pin connector. Only 7 wires are used on a 416. I used a 5 pin and 2 pin Packard connector to fix a burnt 9 pin on one of my 416H's. I convert every Onan engine wiring that way. The 9 pin will get replaced with a new rubber sealed one. I keep the 9 pin because that way I can swap engines around at will. I have never had an issue with one after replacing with new and getting the charge current removed from it. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #86 Posted September 30 Back side of flywheel painted. Magnets are masked and center hole plugged as I don't want paint there. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #87 Posted October 1 (edited) Flywheel painted and masking removed. Flywheel hardware bead blasted and painted as required. Edited October 1 by cleat 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #88 Posted October 2 Degreased and cleaned engine. It will be a lot easier to finish the disassembly now. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,710 #89 Posted October 2 4 hours ago, cleat said: Degreased and cleaned Forgive me if I missed this but what's your general procedure there? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #90 Posted October 2 3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Forgive me if I missed this but what's your general procedure there? First I removed all the tins and the flywheel and clean them separately. Then all openings get covered so I don't get decreaser or water into the engine. After that I carry the engine outside and put it up on saw horses. Then it gets heavily sprayed with engine degreasing spray and after that soaks in I give heavily greasy areas a scraping and brushing to loosen up all the Grease. You may need to do this several times until you are happy that the Grease is now soft and not stuck to the engine any more. Then get out a water hose and blast away the degreaser and hopefully loose Grease and dirt. I then give the engine a good spray of soap (I used spray nine on this one) and let that soak in for a couple of minutes then give it a good rinsing. After it dries, it should look fairly clean. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,367 #91 Posted October 2 What year is this tractor? Does it have the plastic flyball spacer with the tab? If not, do you plan to upgrade to a metal one while it's apart? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,105 #92 Posted October 2 4 hours ago, cleat said: After it dries, it should look fairly clean. Now you should put a drop of penetrating oil on every fastener, repeat several times per day for a few days. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #93 Posted October 3 7 hours ago, Bill D said: What year is this tractor? Does it have the plastic flyball spacer with the tab? If not, do you plan to upgrade to a metal one while it's apart? It is a 1996 model. I am not sure on the governor. I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me. If it acts up I will replace it then. I have never had one fail yet. Good to know there is a fix if needed though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #94 Posted October 3 4 hours ago, lynnmor said: Now you should put a drop of penetrating oil on every fastener, repeat several times per day for a few days. I have already loosened the exhaust and intake bolts. No issues with this tractor. However, I know where you are coming from as I have had two Onan's in the past with broken exhaust bolts and drilling a steel bolt out of aluminum is no fun. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,367 #95 Posted October 3 2 hours ago, cleat said: It is a 1996 model. I am not sure on the governor. I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me. If it acts up I will replace it then. I have never had one fail yet. Good to know there is a fix if needed though. I've changed that spacer. Not a bad job. Nice to have an engine with an easy to repair governor. I'd recommend upgrading to grade 8 bolts for the intake and exhaust. A healthy dose of silver never seize is a good idea as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,105 #96 Posted October 3 7 hours ago, cleat said: It is a 1996 model. I am not sure on the governor. I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me. If it acts up I will replace it then. I have never had one fail yet. Good to know there is a fix if needed though. I have had one fail some years ago. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #97 Posted October 11 Cylinder heads cleaned then bead blasted. They are nice and flat. Cylinder head bolts and washers bead blasted and painted. Bolt threads have not been blasted or painted. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 2,111 #98 Posted October 11 On 8/22/2025 at 12:59 PM, davem1111 said: I'm sure all of us here have well-founded faith that you will put it all back together again, as good as new or likely, better. I’m leaning toward better. 😁 I’m looking forward to how this build progresses. If it’s anything like the others it’ll be awesome. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #99 Posted October 11 Muffler painted with high temp paint. It looks very shiny now but should dull down as the paint dries. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,702 #100 Posted October 11 Footrests and pads wiped down with contact cleaner to ensure a clean surface for the adhesive to stick to. Footrests masked off where adhesive is not required. Footrests and pads sprayed with two coats of 3M 90 adhesive. When adhesive had dried to a slightly tacky state I removed the masking and carefully applied the pads. I use the little roller shown to firmly set the pads into the adhesive and remove any air bubbles if any are present. Pads are fully installed. 2 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites