cleat 7,562 #76 Posted September 18 1 minute ago, Bill D said: Now would be a good time to reinforce that area. I make some reinforcement pieces using 1.5" x 2" angle stock. I did that to one of mine that had the bolting locations completely broken off. This is on a 520-8 but those crack spots are the same. Any that I have welded then bolted back together using large thick fender washers underneath have never cracked again. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #77 Posted September 18 Hoodstand welds ground flat then entirely sanded. Hoodstand primed. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #78 Posted September 19 Belt guard painted. Left side cover painted. Lower steering shaft painted. Fender painted. Of course the wind came up and blew some tree bits into the paint. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #79 Posted September 19 Hoodstand bottom side painted. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #80 Posted September 19 Hoodstand painted. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #81 Posted Monday at 01:09 PM Started taking engine apart for cleaning. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,009 #82 Posted Monday at 03:44 PM 2 hours ago, cleat said: Started taking engine apart for cleaning. This would be a great opportunity to clean out the carburetor, inspect the intake manifold for leaks, glass bead and paint the exhaust, decarbon the heads and adjust the valves. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,328 #83 Posted Monday at 07:59 PM Also consider running an extra wire from the battery positive on the starter directly to the voltage regulator. This takes the load off of the 9 pin connector. Also consider using a Packard connector in place of the 9 pin connector. Only 7 wires are used on a 416. I used a 5 pin and 2 pin Packard connector to fix a burnt 9 pin on one of my 416H's. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #84 Posted Monday at 08:25 PM 4 hours ago, lynnmor said: This would be a great opportunity to clean out the carburetor, inspect the intake manifold for leaks, glass bead and paint the exhaust, decarbon the heads and adjust the valves. Yep. All that and more will happen once the engine is cleaned up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #85 Posted Monday at 08:28 PM 25 minutes ago, Bill D said: Also consider running an extra wire from the battery positive on the starter directly to the voltage regulator. This takes the load off of the 9 pin connector. Also consider using a Packard connector in place of the 9 pin connector. Only 7 wires are used on a 416. I used a 5 pin and 2 pin Packard connector to fix a burnt 9 pin on one of my 416H's. I convert every Onan engine wiring that way. The 9 pin will get replaced with a new rubber sealed one. I keep the 9 pin because that way I can swap engines around at will. I have never had an issue with one after replacing with new and getting the charge current removed from it. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #86 Posted Tuesday at 12:11 PM Back side of flywheel painted. Magnets are masked and center hole plugged as I don't want paint there. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #87 Posted Wednesday at 12:00 PM (edited) Flywheel painted and masking removed. Flywheel hardware bead blasted and painted as required. Edited Wednesday at 02:49 PM by cleat 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #88 Posted Thursday at 12:18 PM Degreased and cleaned engine. It will be a lot easier to finish the disassembly now. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,948 #89 Posted Thursday at 04:52 PM 4 hours ago, cleat said: Degreased and cleaned Forgive me if I missed this but what's your general procedure there? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #90 Posted Thursday at 05:05 PM 3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Forgive me if I missed this but what's your general procedure there? First I removed all the tins and the flywheel and clean them separately. Then all openings get covered so I don't get decreaser or water into the engine. After that I carry the engine outside and put it up on saw horses. Then it gets heavily sprayed with engine degreasing spray and after that soaks in I give heavily greasy areas a scraping and brushing to loosen up all the Grease. You may need to do this several times until you are happy that the Grease is now soft and not stuck to the engine any more. Then get out a water hose and blast away the degreaser and hopefully loose Grease and dirt. I then give the engine a good spray of soap (I used spray nine on this one) and let that soak in for a couple of minutes then give it a good rinsing. After it dries, it should look fairly clean. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,328 #91 Posted Thursday at 06:18 PM What year is this tractor? Does it have the plastic flyball spacer with the tab? If not, do you plan to upgrade to a metal one while it's apart? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,009 #92 Posted Thursday at 09:36 PM 4 hours ago, cleat said: After it dries, it should look fairly clean. Now you should put a drop of penetrating oil on every fastener, repeat several times per day for a few days. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #93 Posted yesterday at 01:58 AM 7 hours ago, Bill D said: What year is this tractor? Does it have the plastic flyball spacer with the tab? If not, do you plan to upgrade to a metal one while it's apart? It is a 1996 model. I am not sure on the governor. I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me. If it acts up I will replace it then. I have never had one fail yet. Good to know there is a fix if needed though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,562 #94 Posted yesterday at 02:01 AM 4 hours ago, lynnmor said: Now you should put a drop of penetrating oil on every fastener, repeat several times per day for a few days. I have already loosened the exhaust and intake bolts. No issues with this tractor. However, I know where you are coming from as I have had two Onan's in the past with broken exhaust bolts and drilling a steel bolt out of aluminum is no fun. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,328 #95 Posted yesterday at 04:17 AM 2 hours ago, cleat said: It is a 1996 model. I am not sure on the governor. I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me. If it acts up I will replace it then. I have never had one fail yet. Good to know there is a fix if needed though. I've changed that spacer. Not a bad job. Nice to have an engine with an easy to repair governor. I'd recommend upgrading to grade 8 bolts for the intake and exhaust. A healthy dose of silver never seize is a good idea as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,009 #96 Posted yesterday at 09:19 AM 7 hours ago, cleat said: It is a 1996 model. I am not sure on the governor. I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me. If it acts up I will replace it then. I have never had one fail yet. Good to know there is a fix if needed though. I have had one fail some years ago. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites