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cleat

Got another one. A 416 this time.

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cleat
1 minute ago, Bill D said:

Now would be a good time to reinforce that area.   I make some reinforcement pieces using 1.5" x 2" angle stock.

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I did that to one of mine that had the bolting locations completely broken off.

This is on a 520-8 but those crack spots are the same.

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Any that I have welded then bolted back together using large thick fender washers underneath have never cracked again.

 

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cleat

Hoodstand welds ground flat then entirely sanded.

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Hoodstand primed.

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cleat

Belt guard painted.

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Left side cover painted.

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Lower steering shaft painted.

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Fender painted.

Of course the wind came up and blew some tree bits into the paint.

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cleat

Hoodstand bottom side painted.

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cleat

Hoodstand painted.

754721221_Hoodstandpainted1.JPG.ddcfdf6c0f3622a15e02e2a8442d6de6.JPG

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cleat

Started taking engine apart for cleaning.

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lynnmor
2 hours ago, cleat said:

Started taking engine apart for cleaning.

 

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This would be a great opportunity to clean out the carburetor, inspect the intake manifold for leaks, glass bead and paint the exhaust, decarbon the heads and adjust the valves.

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Bill D

Also consider running an extra wire from the battery positive on the starter directly to the voltage regulator.   This takes the load off of the 9 pin connector.   Also consider using a Packard connector in place of the 9 pin connector.   Only 7 wires are used on a 416.  I used a 5 pin and 2 pin Packard connector to fix a burnt 9 pin on one of my 416H's. 

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cleat
4 hours ago, lynnmor said:

This would be a great opportunity to clean out the carburetor, inspect the intake manifold for leaks, glass bead and paint the exhaust, decarbon the heads and adjust the valves.

Yep.

All that and more will happen once the engine is cleaned up.

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cleat
25 minutes ago, Bill D said:

Also consider running an extra wire from the battery positive on the starter directly to the voltage regulator.   This takes the load off of the 9 pin connector.   Also consider using a Packard connector in place of the 9 pin connector.   Only 7 wires are used on a 416.  I used a 5 pin and 2 pin Packard connector to fix a burnt 9 pin on one of my 416H's. 

I convert every Onan engine wiring that way.

The 9 pin will get replaced with a new rubber sealed one.

I keep the 9 pin because that way I can swap engines around at will.

I have never had an issue with one after replacing with new and getting the charge current removed from it.

 

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cleat

Back side of flywheel painted.

Magnets are masked and center hole plugged as I don't want paint there.

 

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cleat

Flywheel painted and masking removed.

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Flywheel hardware bead blasted and painted as required.

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Edited by cleat
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cleat

Degreased and cleaned engine.

It will be a lot easier to finish the disassembly now.

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ebinmaine
4 hours ago, cleat said:

Degreased and cleaned

Forgive me if I missed this but what's your general procedure there?

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cleat
3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Forgive me if I missed this but what's your general procedure there?

First I removed all the tins and the flywheel and clean them separately.

Then all openings get covered so I don't get decreaser or water into the engine.

 

After that I carry the engine outside and put it up on saw horses. 

 

Then it gets heavily sprayed with engine degreasing spray and after that soaks in I give heavily greasy areas a scraping and brushing to loosen up all the Grease.

 

You may need to do this several times until you are happy that the Grease is now soft and not stuck to the engine any more.

 

Then get out a water hose and blast away the degreaser and hopefully loose Grease and dirt.

 

I then give the engine a good spray of soap (I used spray nine on this one) and let that soak in for a couple of minutes then give it a good rinsing.

 

After it dries, it should look fairly clean.

 

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Bill D

What year is this tractor?  Does it have the plastic flyball spacer with the tab?  If not, do you plan to upgrade to a metal one while it's apart?

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lynnmor
4 hours ago, cleat said:

After it dries, it should look fairly clean.

 

Now you should put a drop of penetrating oil on every fastener, repeat several times per day for a few days.

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cleat
7 hours ago, Bill D said:

What year is this tractor?  Does it have the plastic flyball spacer with the tab?  If not, do you plan to upgrade to a metal one while it's apart?

 

It is a 1996 model.

I am not sure on the governor.

I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me.

If it acts up I will replace it then.

I have never had one fail yet.

Good to know there is a fix if needed though.

 

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cleat
4 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Now you should put a drop of penetrating oil on every fastener, repeat several times per day for a few days.

 

I have already loosened the exhaust and intake bolts.

No issues with this tractor.

 

However, I know where you are coming from as I have had two Onan's in the past with broken exhaust bolts and drilling a steel bolt out of aluminum is no fun.

 

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Bill D
2 hours ago, cleat said:

 

It is a 1996 model.

I am not sure on the governor.

I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me.

If it acts up I will replace it then.

I have never had one fail yet.

Good to know there is a fix if needed though.

 

I've changed that spacer.   Not a bad job.  Nice to have an engine with an easy to repair governor. 

 

I'd recommend upgrading to grade 8 bolts for the intake and exhaust.   A healthy dose of silver never seize is a good idea as well. 

 

 

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lynnmor
7 hours ago, cleat said:

 

It is a 1996 model.

I am not sure on the governor.

I figure it has worked for the last 29 years, it should be fine for me.

If it acts up I will replace it then.

I have never had one fail yet.

Good to know there is a fix if needed though.

 

I have had one fail some years ago.

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