Got another one. A 416 this time.

[cleat 7,641]

More parts sanded and primed.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Parts painted.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Mid tach plates painted.

 

Front tach housing painted.

 

Hydro pulley painted.

 

Seat lift bracket painted.

 

Misc hardware, headlight clips, and hydro dipstick painted.

 

PTO pulley bell painted.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Idler pulley one coat of paint.

 

Lift bar primed.

 

Rear hitch primed.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Idler pulley fully painted.

 

Lift bar painted.

 

Rear hitch painted.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Front wheels with tires just removed.

 

Front wheels wire brushed, sanded and put on a rod for painting.

 

Front wheels primed.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Front wheels have first coat of silver paint applied.

After paint dries for a while I will loosely mount the tires and complete the painting.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Rear fender was bent by the PO to fit oversize tires.

 

Fender straightened to the best of my ability (I am no body man).

 

[cleat 7,641]

New seal installed into PTO pulley.

 

New thrust bearing and stub shaft installed into PTO pulley.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Installed tires onto front wheels.

Valve stem hole is taped off as it will get installed after wheels have the final coat of paint and clear applied.

 

Started sanding fender.

 

[ebinmaine 74,405]

19 minutes ago, cleat said:

fender

 

 

How are you finding the sheet metal to be overall? Looks pretty straight.

[cleat 7,641]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

How are you finding the sheet metal to be overall? Looks pretty straight.

Rust and paint wise, the best I have ever bought.

The rear fender was bent out to fit the oversize ATV tires the PO had fitted.

I straightened it the best I could and it now looks good.

 

[cleat 7,641]

I used a little spot putty on the small remaining dimples on the rear fender.

Block sanded until as flat as I could get it.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Bottom of rear fender painted.

 

One coat of clear applied.

Bottom will just get one coat.

 

[Brockport Bill 2,036]

very impressive !!!!!!

do you do all bloc hand sanding? or do you use any power sanders or grinder sanding discs etc? When convenient, could you post a photo or tell us the light redish primer paint product you use? thanks

[Bill D 2,355]

Beautiful work as always.   How do you mount the tires without scratching the rims?

[ebinmaine 74,405]

5 hours ago, Bill D said:

Beautiful work as always.   How do you mount the tires without scratching the rims?

 

I'm figuring either wizardry or The Force. 

[johnnymag3 2,587]

Self Etching Red Oxide Primer is what everyone uses....it goes on well and is better under red Paint  

 

It is available anywhere.

[cleat 7,641]

10 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

very impressive !!!!!!

do you do all bloc hand sanding? or do you use any power sanders or grinder sanding discs etc? When convenient, could you post a photo or tell us the light redish primer paint product you use? thanks

 

Thanks, most of the sanding is done with a 5" random orbital and 120 grit paper.

Loose paint and rust is removed using a grinder with a wire wheel.

 

I just block sanded the spot putty because the power sander would have just removed it all.

 

The light coloured spots you see is the remaining spot putty filling in the little dents that I could not fully hammer out.

 

This is the spot putty I used.

 

As mentioned above, I use regular red oxide primer.

 

Edited September 17 by cleat

[cleat 7,641]

9 hours ago, Bill D said:

Beautiful work as always.   How do you mount the tires without scratching the rims?

 

Thanks you.

I use one of these small tire changers.

 

To help with damage and make the tire install easier I do a few things:

1) As you can see from the pictures above, the tire tool has a rubber ring on the bottom side. Be sure this is used and is clean and smooth.

2) I cut a piece of rubber and pit it between the rim and the metal plate that goes above the rim to clamp it into the tire tool.

3) The rim can now be mounted into the tool making sure the side with the valve is up.

4) Wrap the top edge of the rim with a couple layers of electrical tape (be sure to wind on the tape in the same direction you will be turning the tire installation tool).

5) Put dish soap on the electrical tape and inside edge of the tire to make things slide easier.

6) Put the tire in the sun for a while to warm it up and make it slightly more pliable.

7) you should be able to push one side of the tire onto the rim by hand with both the tire and the rim slippery with soap.

8) Now for a little trick, using two clamps like this one. squeeze one side of the tire and it should then be easy to get the squeezed side down and into the recess by the tire valve.

 

9) Make tire the tire installation tool is free from burrs or sharp edges then lube the tape on the rim, the tire bead and the installation too where it will contact the tire and the rim and following the instructions with the tool you should be able to pop the tire on.

10) remove the tape and hopefully there will be minimal damage to the rim paint.

 

I always count on at least a little scratching so the final coat of paint is done after the tire is mounted.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Front tires masked off and a final coat of silver paint applied.

 

Two coats of clear applied.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Front wheels masking removed.

Now to let them dry for a few days before the next step.

 

[cleat 7,641]

Valve stems installed into front wheels then tires inflated to 12 PSI.

These will now be set aside until they get installed.

 

 

[cleat 7,641]

Fender primed.

Primer is still wet in these pics.

I used a 1.8mm HVLP spray gun set at 28 PSI with the primer thinned and hardener added.

 

Belt guard primed.

This is a Belt guard I had here already as it was already punched for ventilation and also it does not have the stud for the plastic belt cover.

I do not plan on using the plastic belt cover.

 

Got the hoodstand cracks welded up.

I have never yet got a Wheel Horse that did not have these cracked or completely broken off.

 

 

Edited September 18 by cleat

[Bill D 2,355]

1 hour ago, cleat said:

Fender primed.

Primer is still wet in these pics.

I used a 1.8mm HVLP spray gun set at 28 PSI with the primer thinned and hardener added.

 

Belt guard primed.

This is a Belt guard I had here already as it was already punched for ventilation and also it does not have the stud for the plastic belt cover.

I do not plan on using the plastic belt cover.

 

Got the hoodstand cracks welded up.

I have never yet got a Wheel Horse that did not have these cracked or completely broken off.

 

 

Now would be a good time to reinforce that area.   I make some reinforcement pieces using 1.5" x 2" angle stock.