Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
sunbelthorse

Great Uncles 953

Recommended Posts

sunbelthorse

Hey I just bought a 953 @ my uncles estate sale. It didnt run at first but after a little valve coaxing (pushing with a hammer), and carb clean it fired right up. As far as I can tell it has the original seat, and it came with the belly mower and sickle bar. Can anyone give me some 953 history/value etc. Im trying to post a picture with this. looking forward to keep it as a family heirloom.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MikesRJ

First, :scratchead:

Value depends on its physical condition and what someone else is willing to spend on it. See this post for details.

As for history; it was one of the last "Round Hoods" made and was a 1963 model. The details can be found in the following PDF's:

Round Hoods Part I

Round Hoods Part II

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Raider12

:scratchead: :hide:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
sunbelthorse

Thanks for the parts listing. I think its pretty original has the black and white seat all the side covers etc. Lights are still intact. At this point my only issue is it will go into all gears but at too high an RPM it will kick out unless I hold it in place. Any thoughts?

:scratchead:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MikesRJ

Thanks for the parts listing. I think its pretty original has the black and white seat all the side covers etc. Lights are still intact. At this point my only issue is it will go into all gears but at too high an RPM it will kick out unless I hold it in place. Any thoughts?

:scratchead:

As far as the transmission popping out of gear, I would suspect a bad shift fork or gear internal to the transmission. Not necessarily impossible parts to find, but it will take some searching. If you are going to rebuild the machine, a complete rebuild of the transmission would not be too difficult. I also have the manual for that transmission and it can be downloaded here: (Transmission Manual).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
sunbelthorse

Worked on the tractor a little bit tonight. I was pleasantly surprised to find a sandwhich bag with the bolts for my side covers. I was wondering if anyone knows the correct drive belt size for the transmission on this tractor. Also I found that when I turned on the lights they all the sudden got very bright and then I assumed burned out as test light confirmed. Any ideas?? Thanks for the help in advance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lane Ranger

A copy of the wheel horse 953 manual is linked on this site under the Wheel Horse Tractors title.. Go to Wheel Horse Links.

Wheel Horse Manuals (free downloads) The first group

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
sunbelthorse

I'm trying to adjust my brakes, and it seems that I'm totally adjusted out on the pedal as well as the brake thread shaft. Where should I go from here? :scratchead:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MikesRJ

I'm trying to adjust my brakes, and it seems that I'm totally adjusted out on the pedal as well as the brake thread shaft. Where should I go from here? :scratchead:

The simplest way to describe the adjustment process is like this;

"Note the pedal position where; when you depress the pedal forcing the idler pulley to come up; and the drive force to the transmission stops; the brakes should engage 1/2" past that point (i.e. when the pedal moves 1/2" further past "drive-stop" point)."

To adjust the Brakes n practice;

1. You first need to locate and note the position of the pedal when the tractor drive stops (on my RJ58 tractor the forward lock nut on the Brake Shaft is just about touching the Brake Band, but not yet tightening at this point).

2. Advance the pedal 1/2" past the noted point, and adjust the Brake Rod Lock Nuts so the Brake Band is tight around the Brake Drum.

3. Test the function and repeat #2 and #3 until drive disengages and the brakes come on 1/2" past that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
sunbelthorse

Makes sense but I'm out of adjustment completely. I can't tighten the brake any further, unless the idler on the other side has adjustment???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MikesRJ

Makes sense but I'm out of adjustment completely. I can't tighten the brake any further, unless the idler on the other side has adjustment???

There is no adjustment to the Idler. The Arm and Clutch Rod Pivot Arm are dowel pinned to the shaft and should be pointing in the same direction on the shaft. Perhaps a pin sheared? If you take a picture of the left side of your tractor and post it here it sure would help allot.

Look at pages 19 and 61 (as numbered at the bottom of the pages) in the 953 manual I previously posted, and answer the following questions.

1. The Clutch Rod (part 28) has a Clutch Rod Stud (29) on the end of it. Is the stud screwed all the way onto the rod?

2. Are all of the holes in the Clutch Pedal (17) or the Clutch Rod Pivot Arm (21) round (i.e. not elongated)?

3. Is the Clutch Rod (28) in the lower hole of the Clutch Rod Pivot Arm (21)?

4. Is the Brake Rod (76) in the upper hole of the Clutch Rod Pivot Arm (21)?

5. Does the Brake Band (66) have an asbestos brake material left on it (i.e it should be about 1/8" or thicker)?

6. Are the Arm (20) and the Clutch Rod Pivot Arm (21) pointing in exactly the same direction on the Shaft (19, ID# not displayed in picture)?

7. Is the Idler Pulley (24) the correct diameter (i.e. too large a dia.)?

If you answered yes to all of the above then I would have to think one of your rods (Clutch or Brake) is not original and is too long, you have the wrong (smaller than normal) Brake Drum (63), the wrong Brake Band (66), or similar incorrect part someplace.

If you answered no to any, you know where your problem lies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bitten

Hello and :hide:

The 953 is a very cool looking tractor and one I would like to have, you did good in my book :scratchead:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
sunbelthorse

Thanks for the brake advice, Ill do my best to check these things. Also do you know is a sickle bar a rare thing I have not found much on them and I was just curious.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MikesRJ

There are two types of Sickle Bar Mowers for your tractor. The first is a front mounted model and there is also a side mounted model.

They are reasonably rare and quite expensive because of it. Sometimes you can get a good-fair, un-restored model for about $200-$300 dollars, but I've also seen fully restored ones go for as much as $500-$1000.

As an example, here's the WH Manual for the Sickle Bar Mower for my RJ58:

1955 CBR-32 32" Front-Mounted Cutter Bar Mower Manual

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
sunbelthorse

I have a side mount although it would be great to have a front and side for blazing a trail. With your estimate I'm guessing I did pretty good on the deal tractor mower and sickle $100. Thanks for all your help once I get it done I'll try to post some pics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MikesRJ

I have a side mount although it would be great to have a front and side for blazing a trail. With your estimate I'm guessing I did pretty good on the deal tractor mower and sickle $100. Thanks for all your help once I get it done I'll try to post some pics.

Try to post some pictures BEFORE you start. We always love to see the work in progress too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bitten

WOW $100, man I could even afford that right now :scratchead:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...