Newbie with 1983 LT-1136 front wheel problem

[celtmann 0]

Hi! I'm new here, and new to Lawn and Garden Tractors. A friend gave me a 1983 WorkHorse LT-1136 that he bought back when it was new, and it hasn't been used in many years now, and has been stored outside. I'm cleaning it up, repainting it, and restoring it. I have it running well now, but the front right wheel keeps falling off.

There's a shallow groove around the spindle where a split ring or an e-clip goes (i've tried both) but the wheel just pops them out and then falls off. [it has now broken the interior wheel bushing/bearing, so I bought a Arnold "Universal" front wheel to replace it, and it falls off as well.]

* Should i get another spindle or fix this one?

* How do I remove this one?

* Should I just take this one to a machine shop and have them deepen the groove for a smaller clip?

* Or drill a hole through it for a cotter pin instead?

* Other ideas?

Thanks in advance-

Michael

[jpmcleod 4]

I had the same problem on another style tractor and took a grinding disc and cut the groove a little deeper and the snap ring popped right in there. It has never came out again. I put a thin washer next to the bearing seal to put a little tightness in the space. Again, never lost any grease. I guess I am like you, learning every day but I don't think I have ever seen a "workhorse". Is this for real?

Good luck with the tractor. I got my feet wet restoring two 1987 and 1988 Craftsman's to work around the house. They have been invaluable. I liked restoring them so I restored my 1977 Wheel Horse and I haven't stopped since. I am up to 7 and always looking for another. My restoration is not professional but I tear them all apart and completely refurbish them. They sure look good with a new coat of paint, new tires and seats. Good luck with the "Work Horse" and the next ones you do, because you will do more, believe me.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

:hide: , Michael!

(I deleted your other post since you also had this one.)

The cotter pin idea is fine or you could drill into the spindle end and tap it for a 3/8 bolt. Just make sure you use an adequate and properly sized flat washer for either method.

(@jpmcleod: I "fixed" your post up a little too. )

[bitten 134]

Hello Michael and

Sounds like the topic has been answeard. I like the drilling and tapping idea myself.

Good Luck,

P.J.

[celtmann 0]

...The cotter pin idea is fine or you could drill into the spindle end and tap it for a 3/8 bolt. Just make sure you use an adequate and properly sized flat washer for either method...

Thanks for the Welcomes and the great information, guys! You're the best.

As far as drilling for a cotter pin, or drilling for a bolt, is that something I can do with the spindle still on the tractor? (I have no background in metalwork, but a lifetime of experience in woodworking.)

I don't have a drill press, only a 3/8" electric hand drill. Would I need a special kind of drill bit to go through the 3/4" steel spindle for the cotter pin? (in other words, is the spindle specially hardened, etc.?)

If I were to drill and tap it from the end, is that much more difficult?

Sorry- I know these are elementary questions, but I am laid off, and want to save money wherever I can, and learn how to take care of my own stuff as well.

Thanks in advance-

Michael

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

Drilling the spindle on the tractor is possible but it would be much easier if the spindle was clamped in a vise. I would definitely remove them if you plan on the drill/tap/bolt method. Removal of the spindle is as simple as unbolting the tie rod end and removing the clip on the top of the spindle. The spindle should pull down out of the end of the front axle.

Some older Horses used a 3/8-16 bolt and a heavy flat washer to retain the wheel assembly - which is also what I would go with on your LT. You'll need a decent 5/16" drill bit (for metal) and a 3/8-16 tap. Try to get the hole as close to the center of the spindle end as possible, but it won't hurt if it's off center a small amount. Start off with a smaller "pilot" bit, (like 1/8") then 1/4", and finish off with the 5/16" bit.

If you choose to take the "easy way out", drill straight down through the spindle with a 1/8" bit - keeping the back edge of the hole on the inside of the snap ring groove. That will ensure that you'll have enough room to get a cotter pin installed.

[Horse Fanatic 51]

I had the same problem and drilled a hole for a cotter pin with the spindle still on the tractor. Only took a couple minutes and I was back to mowing and it's been fine ever since.

[HorseFixer 2,013]

:ychain: looks like you found yer solution in a hurray! Yer in good hands here! :hide:

[Red Iron 1]

:scratchead:

Did I see "woodworker"?? I would wonder if you have a knife file in your

tool box? The knife file has the standard flats for filing, but tapered like

a knife blade, that narrow edge does wonders for grooves cut for snap

rings. The narrower the knife edge file is, the thinner a groove you can cut.

I know it's not the fast way out, but a little elbow grease and sweat may save

your spindle. It may take a little extra time, but a hacksaw blade works too,

using it as a file for deepening the groove. As stated earlier, a proper flat

washer between bushing and snap ring will help alot!

IF that groove is so worn, it is probably better to drill thru spindle and

use cotter key.

[celtmann 0]

THANKS guys! GREAT information!

I drilled a 1/8" hole through the spindle while it was on there, using a new titanium bit, and it only took me a minute. Put a hardened washer on there and ran a cotter pin through, and it works like a charm! Thanks again!