camprc0001@gmail.com 0 #1 Posted June 30, 2024 toro wh 312-8 21-12k805 m12s engine, looking for low oil safety switch replacement instructions Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camprc0001@gmail.com 0 #3 Posted June 30, 2024 First, thanks so much for the replies. I wished I had joined Red Square Forum earlier. Unfortunately, I jumped the gun a few days ago trying to remove the low oil safety switch and broke the outside of the switch although the wires are still attached. I don’t know if it could be superglue but that probably wouldn’t work. At first I thought I was losing oil when the tractor was running but I leaned that it was actually overfilled (maybe that was why the low oil alert light was blinking on the panel in the first place.) Also, my starter went out so I am trying to replace that also. I realized that was probably might fault too, but that is a separate issue. If an overfilled oil pan can cause the alert light on the panel to blink than I would probably have to put the tractor back together to see if it works correctly after filling the oil to the correct level. If not I am back to square one. At that point I guess I am going to have to take the tractor apart again to access the oil pan from the inside (lifting the engine from the lower part of the block that contains the oil pan.) to remove the low oil switch and replace it. In any event the situation is developing into a major project. I would appreciate any suggestions at this point. Thanks, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,439 #4 Posted June 30, 2024 (edited) 3 hours ago, camprc0001@gmail.com said: If an overfilled oil pan can cause the alert light on the panel to blink I removed mine years ago because it caused all kinds of start and running issues. In short, I'm no expert. ...that being said, overfilling a Mag 12 shouldn't create issues with that switch. It's just a float, and is open or closed depending on oil level. If you're having issues, the switch is likely the problem. Even if you plan to replace it, you can bypass it temporarily and see if your starting issues go away with it. Edit: since the switch is open when oil is at the correct level, just unplugging it should bypass it. Edited June 30, 2024 by kpinnc 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midpack 1,114 #5 Posted June 30, 2024 I have a Magnum 12 that had a faulty oil level switch. I bypassed the connection and just make sure I check the oil often 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,439 #6 Posted July 1, 2024 4 hours ago, midpack said: I have a Magnum 12 that had a faulty oil level switch. I bypassed the connection and just make sure I check the oil often Exactly. I never crank an air cooled engine without checking the oil. If something happens that causes 2.5 quarts of oil loss while running, you will know well ahead of time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeepH2O 66 #7 Posted September 27, 2024 On 6/30/2024 at 6:43 PM, midpack said: I have a Magnum 12 that had a faulty oil level switch. I bypassed the connection and just make sure I check the oil often What exactly did you do to bypass? My switch broke while trying to install (should’ve followed service manual to a T) and only one I found was $100. I would rather just install a NPT plug and bypass. What’s correct way to bypass? Just cut the plug? Thanks for help!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 64,525 #8 Posted September 28, 2024 46 minutes ago, DeepH2O said: What’s correct way to bypass? Just cut the plug? YES The low Oil switch will close if the oil level is too low and be open (like the wires weren't connected) if the oil level is good. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Railboy 8 #9 Posted 7 hours ago Hello, this topic pertains to the above, though I am having a problem with my Oil Switch. When by passing the Oil Sender, or as stated above the connector is not hooked up, will the engine still run? I am on the hunt for information, in that, there is an open wire that ties into the Oil Sender and when the Oil Sender actuates, it passes along a ground to the wire(Connector). Just checking to see if this is true on the above unit as mine? A 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8 w/Magnum 10 HP. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 64,525 #10 Posted 7 hours ago 7 minutes ago, Railboy said: as stated above the connector is not hooked up, will the engine still run? The five pin connector (with four wires) has two wires going to your low oil switch, one going to the magneto, and one going to the charging system. If it is disconnected the engine can be started but you will not be able to stop the engine from the key switch and it will not be recharging the battery. The function of the low `oil switch is to operate the low oil relay if the oil level is low. The relay will open its switch preventing the starter from operating if the oil level is low. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Railboy 8 #11 Posted 6 hours ago (edited) 953 nut, I am not sure if I need to start my own thread on this topic but I am under the "Electrical Forums". On my connector coming from my engine on a 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8 w/Magnum 10 HP, I have on the engine side of the connector Black, Yellow, and White Wires. Now, on the Tractor side of the connector from the engine, I have Dark Blue, Black and White wires. Thing is my 15 Amp. Fuse Blows, but also I am not getting voltage through the Voltmeter. It just stays bottomed out at 8 volts, not being triggered. On my unit, I have not seen any chaffed, cut, or crimped wires, but did pull the engine for a rebuild and previously to the rebuild everything worked fine, no fuse blowing. I plan to check all safety switches and there wiring for damage as soon as the weather permits, the Tractor is in a 10X12 Shed. How my tractor is doing is with a new 15 amp. fuse it will crank right up, but, if you do not get it started and release the key, the next time you go to engage the starter the fuse is popped. So, I replace the fuse and then get the tractor started. It has both on my year a magneto and stator. Can the stator be doing this? I do not know much of how they work, or operate. Also, for people to know, I by-passed the Oil Sender wires for it was taken out, in case of breakage and the builder said it was cheap insurance to keep from internal engine damage if it did for there made of plastic. But yes, when in any of this, above it is stated the you said (953 nut) the engine will not charge, how do you get the tractor to charge the battery and all? My key works fine, and I can cut the grass do to the magneto powering the spark plug, but I have no charging and wonder if I can get that the fuse will stop popping? Thank you for your time, and if I need my own thread, please lt me know, I am a "Newbie", lol.. Edited 6 hours ago by Railboy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 64,525 #12 Posted 5 hours ago 2 hours ago, Railboy said: Stick with the thread below, asking the same questions by tagging onto old threads isn't going to be helpful. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,439 #14 Posted 4 hours ago On 6/30/2024 at 3:06 PM, camprc0001@gmail.com said: maybe that was why the low oil alert light was blinking on the panel in the first place.) Also, my starter went out so I am trying to replace that also. If the low oil switch is faulty, you will have symptoms of a bad starter. It is part of the interlock system and the tractor will not crank if it is bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites