876wheelhorse 46 #1 Posted August 27, 2009 Ok guys new here this is my first post. I have a wheelhorse 876 it has a 8 hp kohler on it but the problem is the cylinder wall of the engine has a crack in it. doesnt have much power and surely dont sound very healthy. I picked a older 10 hp up at a sale and I need a few parts like a carb and point and coil. I will probably throw a set of rings in just in case it smokes. rather do it once and not twice. Ok here is where i need help. I did the measurements and the bolt holes look like they will line up. It looks like it should fit in there very tight but will fit. I am kindof baffled by a measument for the pulley on the side where the belt goes for the mower deck and for the hydrostatic pump. I think if i move it over a half of inch i should be able to buy enough room for the pulley to work. but to do that will i have enough room under the angle iron frame to put the bolt head under there? so this is what i am thinking taking a steel plate 1/8 inch thick bolting it to 10 hp and then welding studs on the plate to go in the existing holes in the frame. but that takes away from the already tight area around the plug and hood. any ideas would be appreciated i am sure someone has done this and can help me. also if anyone has a carb and the items i mentioned laying around let me know thanks :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
876wheelhorse 46 #2 Posted August 27, 2009 any ideas i havent seen many of these even on here Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #3 Posted August 27, 2009 In 65 Wheel Horse did put 10HP Kohler K241's in the shortframes like your 876. How ever they were not a direct swap for the K181 like you have found. A unique K241 was used with a shallow oil pan so it sit low enough on the frame for the same hood to be used. You will have to offset the drive belt out about a half inch like you mentioned. If you have the correct "shallow" pan K241 other than the mods to the belt guard, triming the rear fender so you can move the guard out, etc,etc...it should work & fit under the hood. If it's not the correct oil pan you'll have to get more creative like adding a spacer between the hood & hood hinge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,071 #4 Posted August 27, 2009 I'm not familiar with the 876 but instead of making the 1/8" plate, could you just tap threads into the frame on that side? That may help with the clearence issue a little and like Rollerman said you could raise the hood a tad with some spacers if needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
876wheelhorse 46 #5 Posted August 28, 2009 yeah i dont know what i will do here but i need to do something lol. If i just bolt it on and then go with the clearance issues. I may have to go as far as making a new gaurd on the side, I just wish there was a easy bolt on lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
876wheelhorse 46 #6 Posted August 28, 2009 I'm not familiar with the 876 but instead of making the 1/8" plate, could you just tap threads into the frame on that side? That may help with the clearence issue a little and like Rollerman said you could raise the hood a tad with some spacers if needed. cant really tap holes cause the bolts go through the frame and thread into the bottom of motor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites