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Fishroe

Picked these up yesterday

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c-series don

I could be wrong but I believe the 314-H came with the Eaton 700 which has 1” axles. Not the best for ground engaging implements. I think your 414-8 is better for using your one bottom plow. Others will be along to either agree or correct me!!!  

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Skwerl58

Nice find on the implements. I use my 414-8 with a plow, tiller and most other tools. I don't have any issues using it. Plenty of power. Only advantage of the hydro would be the hydraulic lift versus the lift handle.

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c-series don

The 314-H has a manual lift 

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Pullstart

Nice scores!  I always prefer a gear jammer for ground engaging chores…

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cleat
47 minutes ago, c-series don said:

The 314-H has a manual lift 

Funny, my 312H has hydraulic lift.

 

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Brockport Bill
4 hours ago, c-series don said:

I could be wrong but I believe the 314-H came with the Eaton 700 which has 1” axles. Not the best for ground engaging implements. I think your 414-8 is better for using your one bottom plow. Others will be along to either agree or correct me!!!  

Hi Don -- fyi --- my 314h is model 73401 - - has a hydro lift lever on the column and both Toro and TractorData.com list it with the Eaton 1100 tranny

wh  314h side profile.jpg

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mrc

a quick way to tell if the eaton is a 700 or 1100 is to look at the rearend.

 

no filter = 700

 

with filter = 1100

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Fishroe

It has a filter 

my scenario is this

I have two 414 eights

One has a front plow blade on it, with rear ag tires, and four wheelhorse wheel weights

The second one has a 36 inch mid mount scraper blade on it. This one I think would be a little less work to get it ready to plow.
I would take the rear ag, tires and wheel weights and put them on the second one

The 314 H is the only one that has a sleeve hitch so I would take that off and put it on the second 414 eight. Neither of the 414s have anything to lift the plow with. What would I need for that?  From the videos I’ve watched. I also need extra weight in the front.  Is there something I can bolt on the front to attach weights? I use the plow blade several times a year, so I wanted to leave that intact.  Thanks 

 

IMG_5418.jpeg

image.jpg

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oliver2-44

I would use the 414-8 

It already has rear wheel weights and Ag tires

Remove the blade off the front plow and use that frames front pin hole to add any needed front weights to keep front of tractor down. 

 

Edited by oliver2-44
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Fishroe

Not a bad idea

thanks

 

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c-series don

Okay, my bad. I thought all 314 hydros were manuel lift. Mine is, however it’s an early model, not a Toro. 

Edited by c-series don

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mrc

hi fishroe,

 

you said your 414's have no way to lift the plow.   from your picture of the 414-8,  the large black lever on the left side of tractor is your lift arm. pull it backwards to raise and push forward to lower plow. 

 

regards

mike

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kpinnc

You need a clevis hitch and the lift cable. Not cheap but worth every penny. 

 

s-l1200 (2)~2.jpg

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Lee1977

The clevis hitch from, "Wheelhorse part&more" is made from 1/2" thich steel the original Clevis hits is made from 3/8" steel.  I have twisted my ortingal WH clevis hitch. 

 

SAM-1116.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Lee1977

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Fishroe

Thanks

after looking on wheelhorse parts and more I need the rock shaft kit. There’s no chain or cable there. I do have the tube. Will be ordering today  does this hitch work good. Also ordering that

 

IMG_5422.png

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Fishroe

I will use the hitch to add some weight in front 

Edited by Fishroe

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Sailman

The weight in front is a needed improvement. I plowed with a C-160 Hydro and it was real light on the front for steering. I don't think the manual lift will be a problem with the plow. Running a tiller without hydro lift would be a "horse of a different color". Ask me how I know.....

Ground breaking with gears has it's advantage.

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kpinnc
24 minutes ago, Sailman said:

I don't think the manual lift will be a problem with the plow.

 

If the plow is set up correctly, manual lift is fine. It will only cut as deep as it is set for. 

 

And the tiller usually cuts until the case bottoms out as well, so no need to fiddle with the lift once it's down. 

Edited by kpinnc
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Fishroe

Glad to hear that

I've never used a plow of any kind so it will be a learning curve. I’m 66 years old and have had a vegetable garden wherever I lived since my early 20’s. Used nothing but a rototiller. I believe the plow will be much faster. After plowing, go over it with the Troy built horse tiller to level it out. You just can’t beat fresh maters and cucumbers. Come on April! 

 

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kpinnc
13 hours ago, Fishroe said:

I've never used a plow of any kind so it will be a learning curve.

 

Once you get your hitch, setup of the plow is easy. All you need is a 2x4 long enough to fit under both left side tires. Setup on a finished floor is best. Don't try it on uneven ground. 

 

You'll notice the hitch plate is slightly angled. This is so when the right side wheels are in the trough you cut previously, the plow sits vertically.

 

Just get the tractor up on the left side on the 2x4 (left front and back wheel), and lower the plow. It should then be perpendicular to the floor when viewed from behind. Adjust the large turnbuckle until the plow sits flush on the floor front to back. That's it for static setup. You can make very fine adjustments as needed from here. 

 

Youtube has several videos on setup if you have questions. Just search "Brinly plow setup". 

Edited by kpinnc

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Fishroe

That’s helps a lot. Thanks.
 

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