Whats the name of this governor part

[RED-Z06 2,150]

Its come to my attention that one of the reasons i seem to be having adjustment problems with my throttle is i have some cobbled mount assembly that's not adjustable.  Its supposed to have an arm that i think the brass nut pinches and you can tweak your pull...but i cant find one even on ebay without ordering an entire governor set.  My K181S has a bracket under the exhaust that clamps the cable, its difficult because its not lined up right and the only hole in the disc i can use, lets it travel too far and over revs.

[ri702bill 7,585]

That is the arm that is pinched by the shaft nut at the open fork end - the other has the hole to mount the throttle cable clamp.

Section 6 of this manual has LOTS of info on it.

 

 

KohlerKseriesManual.pdf

Edited February 11 by ri702bill

[RED-Z06 2,150]

18 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

That is the arm that is pinched by the shaft nut at the open fork end - the other has the hole to mount the throttle cable clamp.

Section 6 of this manual has LOTS of info on it.

 

 

KohlerKseriesManual.pdf 14.16 MB · 0 downloads

Ive amassed pictures of various setups, looks like i need "throttle bracket".  Ill have to look at mine for "drive pin" and see if i have that.

[wallfish 16,263]

All that throttle bracket does is give a place for the cable conduit to mount. I have one without it and it's not an issue. The cable runs down below the engine and the cable is mounted with a bracket made that mounts with the oil pan bolt. The conduit is long after that mounting point but it doesn't matter. As long as the cable conduit can't move it's good.

Do you have that little arm welded on the disk? Without that it's always going to be a quick throttle response. 

That arm on the disk gives it a much longer throttle control range as the connection with the wire to it is a further distance from the the center pivot point of the disk and therefore it takes a longer cable travel to move the disk.

The set up in the first engine pic is a super QUICK throttle response with very little range of the control knob when it's set up that way. Not recommended for a tractor set up. For a log splitter it's good. It has direct connection of the wire to the hole on the disk, linkage from the governor arm to the carb are both set closest to the pivot points of each so it's going to take the minimum amount of movement of the wire to go from idle to full throttle. That equals no control.

The max RPM can be set by whereever the conduit mount is. Frame or that throttle bracket shouldn't matter. Set the throttle control to full throttle and loosen that mount point, start the engine and slide the conduit in that mount spot to where the engine is at 3600 RPM. Lock the conduit mount. Now it can't over rev unless there's a problem somewhere else.

[RED-Z06 2,150]

15 minutes ago, wallfish said:

All that throttle bracket does is give a place for the cable conduit to mount. I have one without it and it's not an issue. The cable runs down below the engine and the cable is mounted with a bracket made that mounts with the oil pan bolt. The conduit is long after that mounting point but it doesn't matter. As long as the cable conduit can't move it's good.

Do you have that little arm welded on the disk? Without that it's always going to be a quick throttle response. 

That arm on the disk gives it a much longer throttle control range as the connection with the wire to it is a further distance from the the center pivot point of the disk and therefore it takes a longer cable travel to move the disk.

The set up in the first engine pic is a super QUICK throttle response with very little range of the control knob when it's set up that way. Not recommended for a tractor set up. For a log splitter it's good. It has direct connection of the wire to the hole on the disk, linkage from the governor arm to the carb are both set closest to the pivot points of each so it's going to take the minimum amount of movement of the wire to go from idle to full throttle. That equals no control.

The max RPM can be set by whereever the conduit mount is. Frame or that throttle bracket shouldn't matter. Set the throttle control to full throttle and loosen that mount point, start the engine and slide the conduit in that mount spot to where the engine is at 3600 RPM. Lock the conduit mount. Now it can't over rev unless there's a problem somewhere else.

I dont have the small disc arm, ill probably look for a disc with the arm and look into modifying what i have for a mount.  My issue seems to be that i get about 7/8" throttle stroke but the last little bit its practically pulling the disc sideways so its really tough, if you push it in and yank it out it might be right on 3600 or it might go a smidge further...and be at 4000.  So the disc with rhe arm would definitely help

[wallfish 16,263]

7 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

So the disc with rhe arm would definitely help

Can you weld or braze one on yours?

[RED-Z06 2,150]

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

Can you weld or braze one on yours?

I probably could, but my welder only goes down to like 60amps, so it would probably kill it.  I ordered a complete used governor setup, has the arm, the disc with that tab, i should be able to at least improve my experience with the parts and have spares too.

[RED-Z06 2,150]

Much, much better, and the little pin in the disc acts as a stop so i was able to set the rpms easily.  Once ive put a couple hours on it and i like it ill pull it off and paint it.