H60 shortblock changes

[DPrice 11]

What years would be the same and correct for a 654  supposed to have a 75063b but I can't find one around here. Hoping to get a different model engine and swap parts to make it right.

[pfrederi 17,147]

Depending on your level of correctness Most any H60 or HH60 would work

[DPrice 11]

I want 100% correct. Is there a list of changes to the block or other parts over the years.

[ri702bill 7,345]

I'm going with any H60 from any mid 60's Lawn Ranger. Too bad going "original" - HH series cast iron Techy's are much nicer.....

[Handy Don 10,638]

1 hour ago, DPrice said:

I want 100% correct. Is there a list of changes to the block or other parts over the years.

 

Outwardly, it is almost impossible to distinguish an HH60 from an H60--the external dimensions and all the external parts are identical. It also impossible to “downgrade” an HH to be an H. Why? The HH is a fully cast iron block where the H is aluminum with a cast sleeve and the HH block at the PTO end is sized to hold a ball bearing where the H used only a smaller sleeve bearing.

 

These elements of the H caused them to have noticeably shorter lifespans than their “beefier” siblings so many of them have just worn out and been replaced. I have a ’68 Lawn Ranger that I thought when I got it was “completely original” (although paint bombed!) right down to the Wheel Horse label tires. When I got under the paint on the engine, what I found was a ’71 or ’72 HH60 probably swapped in by a dealer. 

 

If you find an H60, you’ll have to do some digging to compare both parts lists--likeliest differences will be the fuel tank, throttle and choke linkage mountings, governor linkage, charging circuit, starter setup, air cleaner, and muffler. Of course the cooling shroud will not have the correct build number stamped into it no matter what other parts you swap.

Edited February 5 by Handy Don

[RED-Z06 2,122]

H has breakerless ignition, and given HH points...thats enough to steer me to an H.  I have a few H60s, HH60s, H50, in storage...fun engines, i took the cabs off most and stuffed paper in the intakes because they all had carb problems like most tecs usually did🤣

[pfrederi 17,147]

9 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

H has breakerless ignition, and given HH points...thats enough to steer me to an H.  I have a few H60s, HH60s, H50, in storage...fun engines, i took the cabs off most and stuffed paper in the intakes because they all had carb problems like most tecs usually did🤣

  That is not always true.  in 1967 H60 75117F 75118F and HH60 105013B 105014B  all had points.  Only difference was between recoil and electric start

[RED-Z06 2,122]

2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

  That is not always true.  in 1967 H60 75117F 75118F and HH60 105013B 105014B  all had points.  Only difference was between recoil and electric start

I guess all the H series ive seen had the breakerless, my first engine ever was a new H50 on a Gokart when i was. 10

[RED-Z06 2,122]

I always liked the later style mufflers and recoils too.  If Tec had used a carburetor that wasn't absolutely horrible they would probably still be around

[Handy Don 10,638]

2 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

a carburetor that wasn't absolutely horrible

I've got two Tecumseh’s with original carbs from ’72 and ’75 (HH60 and H60, respectively) that are doing fine. I had one HH100 from the 80’s that really liked its jungle site aftermarket carb.

The carb wasn’t the only issue. Meeting the new emissions rules in the 80’s would have meant a huge investment in research, development, testing, and re-tooling in the face of already declining market due to import competition. That’s when Onan, a company with highly respected products, bailed on the US market.

[RED-Z06 2,122]

14 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I've got two Tecumseh’s with original carbs from ’72 and ’75 (HH60 and H60, respectively) that are doing fine. I had one HH100 from the 80’s that really liked its jungle site aftermarket carb.

The carb wasn’t the only issue. Meeting the new emissions rules in the 80’s would have meant a huge investment in research, development, testing, and re-tooling in the face of already declining market due to import competition. That’s when Onan, a company with highly respected products, bailed on the US market.

My problem was always the brass floats leaking, and the adjustable models needing tweaking.  Ive got a couple HM100s on Gens and an OH160 that defy logic by running perfectly 

[Handy Don 10,638]

41 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

brass floats leaking, and the adjustable models needing tweaking

In 50+ years of engine tinkering, I’ve yet to run into a leaking float (there, I’ve jinxed it 😬).

I have noticed that worn throttle shaft guides and gunk on the throttle/governor springs can make them cantankerous.

[wallfish 15,937]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

In 50+ years of engine tinkering, I’ve yet to run into a leaking float (there, I’ve jinxed it 😬).

I've come across quite a few. Fairly easy to find and fix.

Dry the float completely, shake it and listen or feel for fuel in it. If there is fuel inside of it then it will seep out of the hole. Look for the wet spot! Dry again and search again until the hole is located. Heat the float and the increasing air pressure will push the fuel out. I just light the wet spot on fire and that heat builds enough heat and pressure to keep pushing the fuel out but I do a lot of stuff others may not feel comfortable doing. Solder the hole once all of the fuel is removed from inside of it.

[ri702bill 7,345]

3 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

My problem was always the brass floats leaking

Seen a few - same float as a Kohler K161 or 181.

Speaking of which - I have used a #20 K161 carb on a Techy - needs the thick carb to engine gasket. No issues.

[Howie 882]

I run a HH 60 on my Lawn Ranger, have to look closely at it to tell. The surface of

the aluminum blocks are smoother. Some of the aluminum blocks had  the cast 

iron sleeves and there were some aluminum  bore engines  They used a variety of

throttle control setups. The one on mine came of of a Gravely tiller I think. I pieced

the thing together. 

[RED-Z06 2,122]

25 minutes ago, Howie said:

I run a HH 60 on my Lawn Ranger, have to look closely at it to tell. The surface of

the aluminum blocks are smoother. Some of the aluminum blocks had  the cast 

iron sleeves and there were some aluminum  bore engines  They used a variety of

throttle control setups. The one on mine came of of a Gravely tiller I think. I pieced

the thing together. 

The simplest was the style with the tall governor arm, linkage to the carb, and the short throttle linkage and spring...but they had alot of options

[DPrice 11]

Wound up picking up a nos snh-169c to use for the short block same part # crank. 30841 rectifier and misc tins. Still need the hard to find stuff shroud screen 60681 ignition base plate and muffler. Anyone have pics of a h60. 75063b or 64b. Doing my best to get it original down to the hardware