1993 314H Refresh for another 30 years

[ebinmaine 63,382]

4 hours ago, Cee245 said:

Well, im not sure what to do... i mean, im down to metal in some small areas, so id see that through clear etc. But im not sure if we even care... its going to be a worker/ mower. 

 

The rear fender is similar to the hood.  Im sure ill uncover some little scratches and itll be down to metal with sanding...

 

I do have a nice fender pan thats painted in sunrise red, but needs a couple more coats of paint. (Old project that i went another way)

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's an answer only you can have. 

 

If it was me I'd paint it red, not clear. Same amount of work.  

 

4 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

I replaced my old cracked rubber fuel line with that pvc clear-ish line, it lasted about a year and started to come apart near the engine, i went to cut the end off to get fresh and just handling it made it bust.  Ran new rubber line, maybe it was just bad hose...not sure.

 

 

I've tried clear, yellow, and Two brands of blue. 

They all had very short lifespans.  

I've gone back to black rubber.  I bought a roll of Briggs "Low Permeability".

 

[Cee245 756]

I really dont expect the fuel line to last. I have rubber line on the shelf for when it fails. 

It is thin and does not seem high quality. 😕 

 

 

[RED-Z06 2,144]

43 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

I really dont expect the fuel line to last. I have rubber line on the shelf for when it fails. 

It is thin and does not seem high quality. 😕 

 

 

Its alot of fun when you fill up and it cracks mid mow and you stripe your yard the wrong way 🫠

[Cee245 756]

While we decide how we want the tins to look, we got some more tasks done. 

New oem head gasket is on the way along with gasket set for breather etc. Got the chamber cleaned up pretty good. 

Used a nylon brush set and Carbon Off. Pleased with results. 

[Handy Don 10,706]

1 hour ago, Cee245 said:

Got the chamber cleaned up pretty good.

While you are waiting for the head gasket, you can make sure the head is planed flat!

[ebinmaine 63,382]

20 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

While you are waiting for the head gasket, you can make sure the head is planed flat!

 

 

Excellent suggestion 

[Cee245 756]

I dont have a mill or planer etc. 

 

over a decade ago when i semi restored my 416h, I did that with the heads. I taped a large peice of sand paper to a glass window and did it that way. 

I dont remember what grit i used. 

Anyone else do it that way?  I know its rough way to do it, but i figured it could only help. 

[ebinmaine 63,382]

7 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

I dont have a mill or planer etc. 

 

over a decade ago when i semi restored my 416h, I did that with the heads. I taped a large peice of sand paper to a glass window and did it that way. 

I dont remember what grit i used. 

Anyone else do it that way?  I know its rough way to do it, but i figured it could only help. 

 

 

We've used a piece of flat tempered glass that was set on a small fleece throw which was on top of a table. That worked okay but you had to be careful to hold the glass.

 

A few years ago I switched over to a piece of steel that's taped to the top of my workbench. 

Generally I start out with 180 or 220. Take the bulk of the warp out. Then switch to something like 320 and finish off with 400. 

 

I've had a couple heads that were really badly warped and I started out around 100 grit. That's probably not advisable without experience.

[Cee245 756]

Got the head sanded to 400 grit. Looked good, showed the boys how to get it properly torqued down. 

 

Since many members reported failure with cheap gas hose,  I replaced red hose with my usual thick durable black fuel hose from ace hardware.

 

Used my "anti-rub" fixtures. AKA a ziptie and little section of proper size rubber hose.  We use this on our Honda 250R's 400ex, 300exs to prevent hose chafing. Always worked well with good quality zipties.  not necessary on a tractor, but i like it. 

 

Also got the new idler and wh oem drive belt hooked up.

 

Glad that things are progressing nicely. 

 

[Cee245 756]

 😬 oops... On the Rear Fender, Looks like i didn't give enough time to dry completely before wet sanding a run in paint?

 

 I am trying to fix a couple 😬 runs in the paint and it's kinda rolling off when wet sanding...  at this point, trying to blend it in to re-spray the whole thing since we had the tarp fall on one part when wet. 🤦‍♂️ 

 

 Using rustoleum self-etching primer and rustoleum sunrise red spray can. (We know it won't be perfect.)

 

Tried to keep it warm enough when drying, but it definitely was below 50 when drying for 5 days after spraying and before trying to sand down run. (Did bring in house for a day after spraying)

 

We'll probably eventually get a rear sticker and it'll cover it up anyways, but want try to make it smoother so it's not obvious to see it under sticker. We have a couple more runs to fix as well. 

 

We're trying to get tins done so they can dry and set for a couple months before regularly using tractor.

 

[RED-Z06 2,144]

22 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

 😬 oops... On the Rear Fender, Looks like i didn't give enough time to dry completely before wet sanding a run in paint?

 

 I am trying to fix a couple 😬 runs in the paint and it's kinda rolling off when wet sanding...  at this point, trying to blend it in to re-spray the whole thing since we had the tarp fall on one part when wet. 🤦‍♂️ 

 

 Using rustoleum self-etching primer and rustoleum sunrise red spray can. (We know it won't be perfect.)

 

Tried to keep it warm enough when drying, but it definitely was below 50 when drying for 5 days after spraying and before trying to sand down run. (Did bring in house for a day after spraying)

 

We'll probably eventually get a rear sticker and it'll cover it up anyways, but want try to make it smoother so it's not obvious to see it under sticker. We have a couple more runs to fix as well. 

 

We're trying to get tins done so they can dry and set for a couple months before regularly using tractor.

 

Really needs to be above 65 when you spray, and the primer needs to be fully cured.  If it gets too cool, curing pretty much grinds to a halt.  If im close on temp and its feasible to do i use a propane torch to heat the part, or if its small enough, put in an old gas grill to bring it up to around 200⁰, then spray...let it flash, then hold it at 250⁰ for 20 minutes...once cooled off its fully cured.  My roundhood, the hood took over a week to cure because i couldn't heat it up.  

 

But yes it does look like your top coat isnt cured

[ebinmaine 63,382]

10 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

Really needs to be above 65 when you spray,

 

  If it gets too cool, curing pretty much grinds to a halt. 

 

Disclaimer: 

Trina and I build workers without desire for a glass smooth long lasting paint surface.  

 

BBT aka The Paint Department  does spray when the outside temp is as low as 20⁰, 25⁰ ...

But...

We keep the parts and the paint in the basement workshop,  hang things on a coathanger, bring em out to be sprayed and immediately return all to the basement.  

 

Up here we'd lose nearly half the year waiting for Factory Manual Temps.  

That's just not an option.  

 

Today it's 27⁰  

 

 

 

Edited February 18 by ebinmaine

[RED-Z06 2,144]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Disclaimer: 

Trina and I build workers without desire for a glass smooth long lasting paint surface.  

 

BBT aka The Paint Department  does spray when the outside temp is as low as 20⁰, 25⁰ ...

But...

We keep the parts and the paint in the basement workshop,  hang things on a coathanger, bring em out to be sprayed and immediately return all to the basement.  

 

Up here we'd lose nearly half the year waiting for Factory Manual Temps.  

That's just not an option.  

 

Today it's 27⁰  

 

 

 

You can definitely do it in less than ideal conditions, higher humidity, higher or lower temps, some paints are more forgiving than others.  I had to strip both side panels on my Deere last year because the humidity was too high, temps too high...it cured milky/hazy.  When i sprayed my WH dump trailer it started raining on me about 20 minutes after the 3rd coat...somehow it turned out perfectly 🤣

[ebinmaine 63,382]

This will be headed your way soon.  

 

 

 

[Cee245 756]

Here is our amateur set up. Move the tarp and open the door, turn on fan when spraying... then shut it and move tarp to warm up when drying.  

 

Got the engine tins and front 520 rims done today. 

[Cee245 756]

Thanks Eric! 😊

Next time you do a bunch of free work for me, can you get it done a little faster? 😆

[ebinmaine 63,382]

3 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

Thanks Eric! 😊

Next time you do a bunch of free work for me, can you get it done a little faster? 😆

I mean... I can try...

 

🤣

 

 

Hey pm sent. 😀

[Jon Paulsen 282]

18 hours ago, Cee245 said:

Got the engine tins and front 520 rims done today. 

My rims looked that good. Then I mounted the tires 

 

I'm going to do some touch up near the beads where I messed up the paint. 

[Cee245 756]

Good point john.

Planning on doing some touch up when installing the tires. I have a HF manual installer.  

Its a cool tool that pays for itself in my case. 

[Cee245 756]

Been busy with family etc and buying / selling.  Trying to make some money on a good buy so I can fund this project since we are over original budget. Got a couple xi attachments to sell, then that would be close to paying for the Workhorse parts tractor and new tires. Hoping to get a little oversized.  The more i think, new tires aren't too much more for thos project than good tubes in dry rotted dicos. 

 

Picked up a Gt1800 for the motion controls and lift knob thingy upper dash panels. It needs a starter gear(plastic?!?) And a flywheel (chewed up teeth) it ran 2 summers ago.  Has compression, no odd noise when turning over by hand. 

Also came with what i believe is a pto guard for a sweeper attachment.  I guess it is rare.  Its solid. 

 

Getting some painting done today.  

Edited March 17 by Cee245
Missed info

[Cee245 756]

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 17 by Cee245

[ebinmaine 63,382]

18 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

Picked up a Gt1800 for the motion controls and lift knob thingy upper dash panels. It needs a starter gear(plastic?!?) And a flywheel (chewed up teeth)

 

Those Briggs had nylon or hard plastic starter gears for decades. That was meant to be the sacrificial piece versus the steel flywheel. 

If your steel geared flywheel has bad teeth I'd be curious to know why.  

 

Finding parts for those should be fairly easy. A to Z may have some. Perhaps Brian Badman. 

Sears used a similar or identical engine for quite a while. (The GT1800 Trina and I rebuilt for our friends has a Sears engine.)

I don't know what the interchange years would be though.  

 

 

[RED-Z06 2,144]

42 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Those Briggs had nylon or hard plastic starter gears for decades. That was meant to be the sacrificial piece versus the steel flywheel. 

If your steel geared flywheel has bad teeth I'd be curious to know why.  

 

Finding parts for those should be fairly easy. A to Z may have some. Perhaps Brian Badman. 

Sears used a similar or identical engine for quite a while. (The GT1800 Trina and I rebuilt for our friends has a Sears engine.)

I don't know what the interchange years would be though.  

 

 

Initially they had nylon gears on plastic ring gears riveted to the flywheel, designed to be very quiet, but the nylon gears still wore out...and usually took out the ring gear too.  So they went to an aluminum ring gear, and offered retrofit kits to swap the plastic ones.  Then as engines got larger they went to hardened steel gears...usually still on a nylon bendix.

[Cee245 756]

Got the controls switched off the gt1800 dry fitted onto my hybrid model. 

I was thinking I'd have to drill a hole in the lift mechanism to hook up the little handle, but it was already there. (Look at last pic with red arrow)

 

The upper dash panel on the gt1800 is rough and bent / cracked, not usable... Had to move choke to one of the dash light to use the original dash for now. I have new stickers coming, so i may use original upper dash and just put new stickers over it and deal with the impressions from extra holes. 

 

Oh and my steering stem "bushing" was worn, so installed a bearing i had lying around. 

Maybe a little overkill! Lol

 

Also cut an old steering stem plastic cover since the 520 wheel sits higher. 

 

 

 

 

[kpinnc 10,960]

3 hours ago, Cee245 said:

Maybe a little overkill! Lol

 

Negative sir! I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Most of my steering slop is from those bushings. A flange bearing is an excellent mod!