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JimSraj

Replacement belts for 42” SD on a ‘93 310-8

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JimSraj

Anyone happen to know the sizes for the deck and drive belts for a 42” side discharge deck on a 1993 310-8?  The model # tag is no longer on the deck?

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gwest_ca

Decks are sized by their width of cut - not the width of the deck.

 

42" side discharge

Drive belt 102742 replaced by 94-2501 (1/2" x 103") [108834 is wrong in the belt chart for 1996 and 1997]
Spindle belt 6738 (1/2" x 86") [106125 is wrong in the belt chart for 1996 and 1997]

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JimSraj

Thanks gwest. Blades are still on the deck but a rough measurement (not corner to corner diagonal) is around 13” so I’m figuring it’s a 42”.  I just brought this one home and tried it out today. The cut isn’t very good and I know The blades need to be sharpened but the belts look pretty worn too, so I want to start with new belts. Blades will get sharpened this weekend when I take the deck off to check it out more thoroughly. 
thanks again. Btw, where is the belt chart you refer, too to be found?

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peter lena

@JimSraj while you have the belts off , how easily  / rough / noisily , do those spindles rotate ?   remember  EVERY ROTATIONAL STAGE HAS TO BE FREE AND EASY IN ITS MOVEMENT . its the COLLECTIVE  DRAG ON A BELT DRIVE THAT EATS IT UP . many years ago , first wheel horse , (  still have it )  everything on it , is a hand off , of intended function . VERIFY , how easily / collectively , that completed belt replacement works . a single hang up , rough bearing , excessive belt bounce is telling you of a problem . like to sharpen my blades with a fine file , minimizing metal removal , also might raise your deck height , for better discharge , the details add up . how easily does that mule drive belt move by hand ?  hope it works for you , Pete  

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JimSraj

Thanks again gwest. An amazing amount of info in those files. 
Also, thanks to Peter for the reminders on lube and function. Currently trying to get the !#@*’) blade nuts off so I can sharpen the blades.  I think the po must have been a gorilla. I don’t have a 1-1/8” slim open end to hold the nut that’s above the blade and jamming a 2x doesn’t work so guess I’m gonna have to get a slim wrench to hold it. 

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Rick3478
12 hours ago, JimSraj said:

Thanks again gwest. An amazing amount of info in those files. 
Also, thanks to Peter for the reminders on lube and function. Currently trying to get the !#@*’) blade nuts off so I can sharpen the blades.  I think the po must have been a gorilla. I don’t have a 1-1/8” slim open end to hold the nut that’s above the blade and jamming a 2x doesn’t work so guess I’m gonna have to get a slim wrench to hold it. 

 

I ground down a Craftsman.  The official WH wrench fits, of course, if you can find one.  Penetrating oil followed by Big Friendly Hammer impacts might help break the rust free.  Going back together, a bit of anti-seez on the threads makes next time better.

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JimSraj

Been soaking with crc-56 for a couple days now. Got one to loosen up today. My brother has a 1-1/8” open end I can grind down, since he has 2, I’ll pick it up tomorrow. The blade I got off still has the original sharpening marks on the bevels and was dull as a butter knife. Maybe even more so. 

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peter lena

@JimSraj  usually use a 6 point socket  or wrench , ensuring a solid , no sloppy impact ,also when you sharpen the blades , personally use a  small fine file , to minimize metal removal , those mule drive bearings are probably, 6203 , ( 3/4 ) 2rsc3 , have wide rubber side grease shields , easily removable , for a clean out and grease repack . like the LUCAS  x tra heavy duty  , green , 550 deg drop point , really stands up to lateral heat / stress,. other related bearing spots . are PTO NOSE CONE , outer sealed bearing , and an inner NEEDLE BEARING , needing a wipe out / clean , and a very light amount of  Lucas grease in / on that , excessive lube flings to clutch face . have another related movement point if interested . don't want to  overwhelm you . have this set up on my stuff , no noise or failures . pete   

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