SmilingBob 11 #1 Posted July 7, 2023 (edited) I have a 1979 Wheel Horse C141 Auto with a Kohler K321AS-60322D engine. I have owned the tractor for over 10 years. When I first got it the 101476 connector was melted on one of the AC leads from the stator. I replaced the packard 56 style terminals on the stator wires with insulated female spade terminals. Did the same with the regulator rectifier end of orange wire from the rectifier terminal on the ignition switch. The battery was not charging so I replaced the Regulator Rectifier at that time. Was getting positive indication on ammeter. Did great for years and battery would last a couple years or so. This year I had a year old battery that required a couple hours to fully recharge and fire up the tractor. It did great for a couple of days of mowing on my 3 acres and the ammeter was showing positive. It sat for a couple days and would not start back up. Put the battery on the charger and it would not take a charge even after 24 hours. Replaced the battery with a new one and she fired up. the ammeter was not showing positive or negative. Checked the connections and found the female spade terminal on one of the stator wires had melted. Replaced the female spade terminal. Checked the stator AC voltage with digital meter and was getting up to 19 volts (meter jumped all over the place) with full throttle. Battery voltage with the switch turned off was 12.6. Hooked the stator wires to the AC leads on the Regulator Rectifier and fired it up. The ammeter showed positive. Checked the DC voltage at battery terminals at full throttle and was getting up to 19 volts (again meter jumped all over the place). I read in the Kohler K321 electrical service manual that the AC output from the stator should be 28 volts so I am deducing that the stator is bad and the regulator rectifier has gone bad as well. What is involved in replacing the stator and what is the part number for a new stator? Will I need to buy new magnets for the flywheel as well? The regulator Wheel Horse rectifier part number is 101450 the toro part is pricey when I originally replaced it I bought an aftermarket part but don't remember part number as it was so long ago. I will replace the spade terminals on the stator and orange rectifier wire. with the correct Packard 56 style terminals and a new 101476 connector. Also need to replace the capsule fuse holder from the accessory terminal on ignition switch to the headlight switch as the wire broke from the bottom of fuse holder so I removed the holder from the connector that goes to the ignition switch. SmilingBob Edited July 7, 2023 by SmilingBob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J854D 128 #2 Posted July 8, 2023 @SmilingBob, one thing you could try is to add a separate ground wire to the regulator/rectifier mounting screw. Those charging systems can act weird if the reg./rect. Is not grounded properly. Over time the original metal to metal contacts can get rusted or loose and make for a poor connection. -JD- 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,503 #3 Posted July 8, 2023 One thing you can check is test the battery voltage across the battery posts. Now turn the key to RUN with the engine not running. Test the voltage at the regulator DC terminal. Should be the same voltage. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmilingBob 11 #4 Posted July 8, 2023 3 hours ago, J854D said: @SmilingBob, one thing you could try is to add a separate ground wire to the regulator/rectifier mounting screw. Those charging systems can act weird if the reg./rect. Is not grounded properly. Over time the original metal to metal contacts can get rusted or loose and make for a poor connection. -JD- J854D, I will check the grounds for corrosion and tightness. If I add a separate ground wire to the regulator rectifier mounting bolt would the other end go to the bolt on the tractor that the negative battery cable is attached to or the negative battery post? SmilingBob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmilingBob 11 #5 Posted July 8, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, gwest_ca said: One thing you can check is test the battery voltage across the battery posts. Now turn the key to RUN with the engine not running. Test the voltage at the regulator DC terminal. Should be the same voltage. gwest_ca, Battery voltage across the battery posts with key out was 12.6 volts. With key turned to run and engine not running tested voltage at regulator rectifier DC terminal (red probe on multimeter) black probe on multimeter touching regulator mounting bolt and got a reading of 12.6 volts. Also tried the black probe on negative post of battery and got 12.6 volts. With engine not running pulled and checked the stator wires for continuity and they showed good. With engine not running checked both stator wires with red probe in female spade terminal and black probe to ground and showed 2 ohms. With stator terminals attached to multimeter set to AC voltage and engine at full throttle I was getting 19 volts according to the manual it should be 28 volts. I am thinking a magnet in the flywheel may have come loose and gone missing. With stator wires attached to the AC terminals of the regulator rectifier and the engine at full throttle I was getting 19 volts between the battery posts according to the manual it should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Will be checking for corrosion at the grounds. Don't have headlights right now as the fuse capsule from the accessory terminal on the ignition switch to the light switch had a broken wire and needs to be replaced so I pulled terminal at the connector to the ignition switch to remove it. SmilingBob Edited July 8, 2023 by SmilingBob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,955 #6 Posted July 8, 2023 Also get a decent analog volt meter. A lot of digital ones even top quality don't play nice with our Horses. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,936 #7 Posted July 8, 2023 1 hour ago, squonk said: Also get a decent analog volt meter. A lot of digital ones even top quality don't play nice with our Horses. There's definitely something to it about being able to trust that needle moving compared to trusting some jumping numbers on a screen. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J854D 128 #8 Posted July 8, 2023 (edited) 9 hours ago, SmilingBob said: If I add a separate ground wire to the regulator rectifier mounting bolt would the other end go to the bolt on the tractor that the negative battery cable is attached to or the negative battery post? Edited July 8, 2023 by J854D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,159 #9 Posted July 8, 2023 After finding your problem ......Agreed on getting a VOLT meter and get rid if that ammeter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J854D 128 #10 Posted July 8, 2023 9 hours ago, SmilingBob said: If I add a separate ground wire to the regulator rectifier mounting bolt would the other end go to the bolt on the tractor that the negative battery cable is attached to or the negative battery post? @SmilingBob, you can make your ground connection in either location. Both will provide a good ground to the reg./rect. -JD- Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmilingBob 11 #11 Posted July 11, 2023 (edited) Got ahold of a analog multimeter a Commercial Electric M1015B from Home Depot. Reading on the stator leads at full throttle was 37 volts AC. Reconnected the stator leads to the AC terminals on the regulator rectifier and at full throttle got 14.5 volts DC between the battery posts. So it looks like the regulator rectifier is doing its thing and checks out good. SmilingBob Edited July 11, 2023 by SmilingBob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmilingBob 11 #12 Posted July 11, 2023 On 7/8/2023 at 8:20 AM, pacer said: After finding your problem ......Agreed on getting a VOLT meter and get rid if that ammeter. pacer, Could you recommend a source for good volt meter to replace the ammeter on the tractor? From what I have been reading it would have to be wired in differently than the stock ammeter, could you shed any light on the procedure. SmilingBob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmilingBob 11 #13 Posted July 11, 2023 On 7/8/2023 at 8:31 AM, J854D said: @SmilingBob, you can make your ground connection in either location. Both will provide a good ground to the reg./rect. -JD- J854D, When checking the grounds I found I had already added a separate ground wire from the regulator rectifier mounting bolt to the bolt that attaches the negative battery cable to the tractor when I originally replaced the regulator rectifier 10 years ago, it sucks getting old and having your memory fade..lol, just turned 65. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J854D 128 #14 Posted July 12, 2023 (edited) @SmilingBob, it sounds like your charging system is operating like it should! On voltmeters, or any type of gauges, I am partial to Stewart-Warner products. They are quality made, rugged, and built to last. But a bit pricey. To install a voltmeter, first you’ll need to disconnect the wires from the ammeter, join/bolt them together and tape/insulate that connection. The voltmeter will have a -/neg. terminal and a +/pos. terminal. Connect the pos. terminal to either the “I” or “R” terminal on the ignition switch since they both are “on” in the start & run position and “off” in the off position. Connect the neg. terminal to ground. Your voltmeter will show you system voltage when the key is turned to the run & start position and charging voltage when the engine is running. -JD- Edited July 12, 2023 by J854D added information 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
