Starter/generator symptoms

[JimSraj 338]

Anyone have any advice on what sort of symptoms a starter generator might exhibit when it’s starting to go?

[Achto 26,573]

2 minutes ago, JimSraj said:

Anyone have any advice on what sort of symptoms a starter generator might exhibit when it’s starting to go?

 

Grinding sounds = bad bearings or brushes.

Weak starting capabilities = bad brushes, damaged commutator, or  weak brush springs

Won't spin at all = bad brushes, bad commutator, damages windings.

Won't charge = bad regulator.

 

Other issues can arise. What is your S/G doing?

[953 nut 51,770]

9 hours ago, Achto said:

What is your S/G doing?

[pfrederi 17,147]

Simple test.  Get it running check the voltage at the battery ground the F terminal on the Genny itself.  Voltage should go up and engine slow/labor a bit.  Since it worked as a starter and this test proves it can generate electricity she is good to go.  (baring the grinding noises mentioned above)  I you are having problems with the battery going dead get it load tested  if it is Okay the your regulator may be the issue.

 

 

One thing to add to Achto's list  Won't Charge -bad field coil...

Edited April 15, 2023 by pfrederi

[JimSraj 338]

Yesterday I mowed about 1-1/2 acres and near the end I started hearing a whirring sound that seemed to be coming from the S/G , kind of like I’d expect a faulty bearing to make. The S/G was very hot. I’m gonna  run it today and see if I can pin point the sound any better. Gotta admit that I’m  not very good with electrical problems. 

[Achto 26,573]

8 hours ago, JimSraj said:

Gotta admit that I’m  not very good with electrical problems. 

 

Bearings are not hard to change. Contact "I Save Tractors" for a rebuild kit. Also look for his YouTube video on rebuilding S/G. Real easy.

[pfrederi 17,147]

1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

Bearings are not hard to change. Contact "I Save Tractors" for a rebuild kit. Also look for his YouTube video on rebuilding S/G. Real easy.

 But very very messy.  Wear gloves that black carbon residue is hard to remove...

[JimSraj 338]

Started right up today. No whirring!  Probably gonna get the rebuild kit anyway. Motor redone 2 summers ago, trans this passed winter may as well do the S/G. 

[squonk 38,955]

6 minutes ago, JimSraj said:

Started right up today. No whirring!  Probably gonna get the rebuild kit anyway. Motor redone 2 summers ago, trans this passed winter may as well do the S/G. 

You probably have a bearing starting to go and when it gets hot it starts making the racket. I had a whirring sound in one of my Genny's and one of the bearings was rough running

Edited April 15, 2023 by squonk

[JimSraj 338]

I suspected a bearing making cries to be replaced but I wanted to run it bye you guys with the experience. Thanks for the help once again,

[WHX?? 46,810]

Any chance Jim this tractor was laid up for the winter?

753 & 702 SG sounded fine when I put them to bed but come spring both sounded like bad bearings. Oh well new bearings no biggie. 

After a bit of running both quieted down... odd. 

[953 nut 51,770]

2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 But very very messy.  Wear gloves that black carbon residue is hard to remove...

When I open up a S/G I begin the process by putting it in a trash bag inside a cardboard box. Once the bolts have been removed I put on the gloves and remove both end plates if the don't put up too much of a fight. I then put an air hose with a blow gun on it into the bag and loosely tape the top of the bag around the hose. Blow some short bursts of air through the S/G body toward the bearings letting the dust settle between bursts of air. After the second or third shot of air you have removed the majority of the black dust. Next remove the parts from the bag and put them in another box lined with several paper towel then rinse with aerosol electrical parts cleaner.

[WHX?? 46,810]

Yes Richard prolly not a good idea to breath that dust.

I just put on the gloves, take it out side, get upwind and letter fly. Follow the blow job with a can of choke cleaner than another blowing.

Same with the armature.

I don't like to put the body in the parts cleaner don't want to mess with the shellac on the field windings I guess. 

 I've done dozens and ther is no really good way to do it. 

2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 black carbon residue is hard to remove...

Very true Paul...First one I did my wife asked if I was changing races... and it don't scrub off ... you have to wear it off! 

[JimSraj 338]

Good tips to have.  Thanks again to all of you. I’ll get the rebuild kit ordered asap. 

[JimSraj 338]

WHX?? Yes, it was laid up this winter as I rebuilt the tranny.  I’m gonna rebuild the S/G just as soon as I can, before it goes to my WV camp bc I hope to avoid breakdowns there. Thanks for the help.  

[JimSraj 338]

The rebuild kit from iSavetractors arrived while I was out of town but I got to it today.  Both bearings were shot, seals separating and grease everywhere but around the ball bearings.  One of the inner races was stuck to the shaft so that I had to use a small puller to get it to move. As said by a few of you it’s a pretty easy job if a bit messy with the carbon. All done now and working well. Thanks again, to all, for the advice and encouragement.