kpthorsefan 34 #1 Posted July 24, 2009 I have managed to find a snow/dozer blade off ebay for my C141, picking it up tomorrow. that means setting up the E tank again, and more spaying. it also comes with wheel weights and the bracket. i have been searching a long time for one of these now i have got one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #2 Posted July 24, 2009 Excellent find, Kevin! Could you PLEASE get some close-up pictures of the wheel weights? (I moved this to the attachments forum) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #3 Posted July 24, 2009 Excellent find, Kevin! Could you PLEASE get some close-up pictures of the wheel weights? (I moved this to the attachments forum) sorry never thought when i posted it. I will take some close ups when i get it back tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHC-125 4 #4 Posted July 24, 2009 Nice find and it looks like the wheel weights are stamped WHEEL HORSE :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ 171 #5 Posted July 24, 2009 Excellent. I really like the wheel weights. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,406 #6 Posted July 25, 2009 Must be a special UK born weight? Those look really cool!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 133 #7 Posted July 25, 2009 I want some of those wheel weights :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #8 Posted July 25, 2009 I picked up the snow/dozer blade today, its all stripped down ready for the e tank her are some pictures of the weights, he also gave me some more bits he said come off a finger mower which he dumped because he said it looked dangerous so i missed out on that. Ps, what colour should the weights be painted, red like the tractor ? these are the bits he gave me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #9 Posted July 27, 2009 I have made a start on getting all the rust off the snow/dozer blade, here are a couple of pictures. i also weighed the wheel weights, they are 25 Kg each and there is also a number moulded into them M 1302. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d180man 5 #10 Posted July 27, 2009 Hi love the wheel weight can i have them! lol i like to find a set like them! but nice find and keep up the photos! :ROTF: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #11 Posted July 27, 2009 The wheel weights seemed to have sparked a bit of interest, i take it they are original wheelhorse parts ? also i have noticed i might have a peice of the frame missing, should there be a bar that links the frame to the lift arm on the tractor ? if so does anyone have a picture or the dimensions of it. its marked on this photo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #12 Posted July 27, 2009 The wheel weights must have come from somewhere on your side of the pond and are the first ones I have ever seen with the cast name. As for the lift link for the blade..... If you want down pressure, you'll need to fabricate a link to go from the blade frame directly to the bellcrank arm where the chain is currently attached. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #13 Posted July 28, 2009 The wheel weights must have come from somewhere on your side of the pond and are the first ones I have ever seen with the cast name. As for the lift link for the blade..... If you want down pressure, you'll need to fabricate a link to go from the blade frame directly to the bellcrank arm where the chain is currently attached. Thats spot on tt many thanks for the help, but when you say downward pressure how is it normally attached ?. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,121 #14 Posted July 28, 2009 Down pressure is achieved by replacing that chain with a solid link. With a manual lift, the down pressure would be by holding the lift lever forward, with hydraulic lift, you get hydraulic down pressure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #15 Posted July 28, 2009 Down pressure is achieved by replacing that chain with a solid link. With a manual lift, the down pressure would be by holding the lift lever forward, with hydraulic lift, you get hydraulic down pressure. Yes i am with it now, i see what you mean, that is a great help many thanks . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #16 Posted July 29, 2009 I made a solid link for 48 inch plow and its great for really scraping and digging,its around 12 inches long ,but im not sure,ill check later if needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #17 Posted July 29, 2009 I made a solid link for 48 inch plow and its great for really scraping and digging,its around 12 inches long ,but im not sure,ill check later if needed. That would be great if you could thanks . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptBob 0 #18 Posted August 3, 2009 I made a solid link for 48 inch plow and its great for really scraping and digging,its around 12 inches long ,but im not sure,ill check later if needed. can whlvr, I would be interested in seeing how you did a solid link as well. I was thinking of using "Height Control Rod part #110653" in place of the chain lift when using the dozer blade on my C-141 Automatic CaptBob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #19 Posted August 3, 2009 Use a piece of flat steel to connect the hole where the trunnion for the lift chain eyebolt attaches to the bellcrank to either the hole in the "T" bar where the chain attaches, or fasten it directly to the tab on the blade "A" frame. To get the correct length, install the blade on the tractor and place enough blocks under the cutting edge until you have about 1" of free travel left to pick the blade off of the blocks. Move the implement lift handle to the fully raised position and measure between the two holes where the link will attach. Drill the holes in the flat steel and install with pins or bolts and you're done. NOTE: Some models require a slight curve in the lift link to clear the steering support if you are attaching it directly to the bellcrank and the blade frame tab. Here's a photo of an OEM solid lift link: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #20 Posted August 4, 2009 Thanks tt i have been really busy and forgot to respond to the other members, sorry guys that is exactly what i did ,the only thing i wish i had done was used pins with holes and quick attach pins instead of nuts and bolts,because when i want to use a mower deck i have to crawl under and take off side panels,so i decided it was easier to buy another tractor so i dont have to change the plow anymore. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #21 Posted August 4, 2009 i decided it was easier to buy another tractor so i dont have to change the plow anymore. I like your way of thinking! :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #22 Posted August 4, 2009 Use a piece of flat steel to connect the hole where the trunnion for the lift chain eyebolt attaches to the bellcrank to either the hole in the "T" bar where the chain attaches, or fasten it directly to the tab on the blade "A" frame. To get the correct length, install the blade on the tractor and place enough blocks under the cutting edge until you have about 1" of free travel left to pick the blade off of the blocks. Move the implement lift handle to the fully raised position and measure between the two holes where the link will attach. Drill the holes in the flat steel and install with pins or bolts and you're done. NOTE: Some models require a slight curve in the lift link to clear the steering support if you are attaching it directly to the bellcrank and the blade frame tab. Here's a photo of an OEM solid lift link: That is brilliant, thanks TT. i will be on to it at the weekend. And i must say a big to all of the help that i get from everybody. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #23 Posted August 21, 2009 I know i am jumping the gun a bit, But i wanted to make sure it all fitted. there are still a few more bits to go on but they are still drying. here are a few pictures. i had to make the short link, and still got to make the solid link. had to cut out the rotten metal out of the plough head and weld a new piece in, and replace the scraper blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpthorsefan 34 #24 Posted September 1, 2009 I have now attached the swivel handel, had to make a new locking lever because the one that was on it was all bent out of shape with a slight mod to allow the rod to swivel, also replaced the metal wire linkages with 4mm steel rod threaded with lock nuts on the ends, also a spacer on the triangle linkage to space steel rod out from handle. and i think i am going to respray the frame/blade & weights red not to keen on the black. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,121 #25 Posted September 1, 2009 Really nice. I love the rod conversion, makes the plow a lot more professional looking and something that Wheel Horse should have done to begin with! Very nice work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites