need help with grinding gears/clutch

[peteze 10]

I have a 654 model wheelhorse tractor. The gears were grinding no matter what I did. Longer belt-shorter belt. Than by going on this site I was told about brake or piece of metal that is by the clutch pulley.  So am trying to get the parts off so I can weld or what ever get a piece of metal to help stop the belt from moving when I depress the clutch. I took everything off the linkage or what ever you’d call it. Knocked out the spring pin. Now I can not get the part off the rod. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I believe this to be my overall problem because I have 4 other wheel horse tractors  (different models) (not running) that seem to have that metal attached to the pulley to stop the belt from turning. I tried heating the metal part to get it off but that didn’t work. I think it is cast iron and don’t wanna break it. I have hammered on it with punch. Any ideas or advice would be greatly ap[appreciated, I am at my wits end. I don’t have a manual for this model and do not know where I can get parts. I was thinking that maybe there was pursuable pulley that had metal already on. I know my next problem will be to get metal piece to weld to a washer on the pulley. Also if someone has a parts manual so I can see what is what it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Any help is good.

This is part I have to get off.

 

[mrc 727]

soak with your favorite penetrating oil.  then any sort of puller you have that fits.  i'm thinking bearing puller

good luck

[Achto 26,574]

10 hours ago, peteze said:

I know my next problem will be to get metal piece to weld to a washer on the pulley. Also if someone has a parts manual so I can see what is what it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Here is a free down load of the manual.

 

 

Do you have the belt guard installed? The belt will not stop unless the belt guard is in place,

 

If you are wishing to add an extra belt brake to the idle/tension pulley. You can make a piece out of some sheet that will bolt on behind the pulley. This will eliminate the need to remove the clutch/brake rock shaft.

 

Below is one version that I made for one of my tractors. It is held on with the same bolt that holds the idle/tension pulley on. It could be simplified with a piece of sheet metal that has a 90 degree bend instead of the round stock like I used.

 

Edited February 6, 2023 by Achto

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,504]

 

[953 nut 51,788]

@Achto has you covered, the belt guard has a bottom rail that the slack of the belt will contact when the clutch is depressed, that will stop the belt from rotating. If you don't have a belt guard for your tractor you could attach a piece of angle iron below the belt on the bottom and another at the top above the belt and cover it with some sheet metal.

[Horse Newbie 6,876]

@peteze,

to  !!!

 

You will find all the help you need here !

[peteze 10]

thank you all for the information. i will follow it and hopefully that will solve my situation. thanks again to all!

 

[peter lena 8,072]

@peteze  agree with  @mrc  on the lubrication issue  , make sure that all related movement areas  , are free and respond to any  action , thats often a big part of linkage / levers , pete 

[peteze 10]

is there metal belt stop that i can purchase? when new did the belt stop hook to tractor where the pulley attaches? like behind the bolt. I gotta do something and am at a loss. i don't think i can make part like member 963 suggested.

 

[Handy Don 10,638]

The “stock” “belt stopper" is a metal tab that is part of the belt cover and protrudes toward the lower edge of the engine pulley. It barely clears the drive belt when the belt is tight. Once the belt loosens (with the clutch pedal down) the slack in the belt causes it to rub against the tab which slows and stops the belt from rotating.

The image below is from a ’65 tractor, but is nearly identical to yours in this respect.

If you have a good belt cover the tab should be there. If you don’t, that tab would be easily created and mounted by any competent welding shop and then carefully bent to the correct position once the cover is mounted.

And, of course, the cover MUST be on the tractor for this to work!