Project Time! - 2" Rear Hitch Receiver

[OutdoorEnvy 1,420]

23 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Those can be a right regular bugger to remove but likely worth the effort vs reward.  

 

Any pics of what exactly is stuck?

 

 

 

The main hitch pin is rusted something fierce.  I've soaked it in oil, heated it up and quenched it, multiple times.  banged on it, tried to twist with vice grips, etc.  I've given up on it.  Not gonna remove the trans to drill it out at this point.  I'll make something to slide over top.  Still should take and distribute down force well. 

[ebinmaine 63,133]

1 minute ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 

The main hitch pin is rusted something fierce.  I've soaked it in oil, heated it up and quenched it, multiple times.  banged on it, tried to twist with vice grips, etc.  I've given up on it.  Not gonna remove the trans to drill it out at this point.  I'll make something to slide over top.  Still should take and distribute down force well. 

 

Definitely can see the logic in that.

If you find a street of craziness and decide to remove it. You can  remove one tire and drill the PIN from the center of either end. 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,420]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Definitely can see the logic in that.

If you find a street of craziness and decide to remove it. You can  remove one tire and drill the PIN from the center of either end. 

 

I'm assuming they are soft metal.  But would hate to bugger the trans housing.  I'll keep that in mind if I get the need, or boredom, to do it.  Thanks for the advice!

[ebinmaine 63,133]

2 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 

I'm assuming they are soft metal.  But would hate to bugger the trans housing.  I'll keep that in mind if I get the need, or boredom, to do it.  Thanks for the advice!

 

I've had to do it that way once. I cut off the pin fairly close to the transmission housing.

Center punch as close to the middle of the pin as you can. Start drilling with a smaller bit and work your way up in size until you're as close to the 3/4 diameter of the pin as you can get without touching the transmission housing.

 

At that point you can just chisel the remains of the pin out of the way.

 

Just in case you were wondering, it's about as much fun as it sounds.

 

😂

[ranger 1,634]

If you drill in an inch or so into the pin, you can then insert a largish punch in to the hole, position a piece  of thick wall pipe over the other end of the pin, then get someone to hold a sledge hammer against the pipe, (this to protect the gearbox lugs), whilst you ‘Whack’ seven bells out of the punch with another big ‘tapping’ stick. The punch sitting in the hole in the pin stops the end of the pin from becoming ‘burred’, and swollen, (like ‘setting’ a rivet in a hole). Of course, all of this after soaking in your favourite penetrating ‘Stuff’, and perhaps a little heat. If you possess an air chisel, try that,  the continuous impacts may serve better than a few heavier blows? (And less likely to hit your thumb). 

[Jon Paulsen 282]

On 7/22/2023 at 11:09 AM, ebinmaine said:

 

 

A wise man once told me there's nothing wrong with using a grinder. 

 

And that's good. 

That's very good.  

Because pretty welds... I do not make.  

I call a welder a man who knows how to weld things right. Or I call it a machine men use to weld. I call me a man that can make metal stick together 

 

Pretty, cheap or fast. I can't even do two 

[Gasaholic 183]

8 hours ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 

  Debating designs as the draw pin in my C-100 is seized.  

I'd say it is worth getting freed up - especially will need to anyway if you ever have to pop transmission apart for repairs.. I had same problem just finally solved today on my C-100 - I soaked in a liberal amount of Kroil (Aerokroil) into the transmission case seam, and all around since 5 days ago, and every day I went out and tapped it gently sideways back and forth for a while before re-soaking it. Yesterday I tapped on it and could feel it move ever so slightly, so worked it back and forth a bit more , re-soaked it, and this morning took the snap rings off and shifted it to the side (The spacers were missing from it...) and went at it with a strip of emery cloth either side, then soaked it some more and started tapping it out, and the further I got it to move, the easier it went.  Just needs some patience, and some I suppose a bit of expertise with a BFH. (So as to avoid mushrooming the ends but still enough force to encourage it to move.. kinda thing that just comes with experience I guess...)  Anyhow, it is back in with a good coating of never-seez and new snap rings, and home made spacers from some old worn out bronze bushings I had laying around.. 

 

However, I have had some seriously stubborn ones that didn't give until we gave up and planned on splitting the transmission case , popped the Transmission out and set it up with one hub and the tire as a "Work Stand" and heated the whole case around the pin with oxyacetylene torch until the pin was starting to show orange, then a brass hammer on end of pin and whaling at it with a 12 pound half sledge finally unstuck it..  Then we tore down transmission and replaced all seals, gaskets and "while at it" inspected the insides.. (and found the lightweight differential bolts, so we put in that service kit with heavier bolts and locknuts)  if I recall, we had two or three of those.  Sure was better than having to replace the transmission. Once the pin gets stuck / rusted in, it'll only get worse, I think. 

 

Oh, edited to add: I was initially just gonna post that I just got in (via an ebay seller) a nicely fabricated 2x2 receiver hitch that simply bolts on to the tongue hitch that was there (and extends the tongue a bit) , it fit up perfectly and will be quick and simple to remove if I need to install the Clevis hitch (for the cultivator I got with the tractor) 

 

Edited July 27, 2023 by Gasaholic

[Handy Don 10,596]

9 minutes ago, Gasaholic said:

Oh, edited to add: I was initially just gonna post that I just got in (via an ebay seller) a nicely fabricated 2x2 receiver hitch that simply bolts on to the tongue hitch that was there (and extends the tongue a bit) , it fit up perfectly and will be quick and simple to remove if I need to install the Clevis hitch (for the cultivator I got with the tractor) 

 

Pictures please!

[Jon Paulsen 282]

@Gasaholic Back in my younger, stronger automotive hobby days (Willys Jeep with Buick 231), I swore by Kroil so much that I bought it by the gallon. Gallon ran low and I started buying spray cans because of skyrocketing Kroil prices. With a small amount of liquid left in a glass jar, I was going to try 50/50 (I think it was 50/50) acetone/ATF, bought the stuff and kept careful with the Kriol I had. I still have some left, using alternatives for the less important things. Then I saw one of the garden tractor off-roaders was using a seafoam product in the spray can. Less than the spray Kroil at NAPA. I'm guessing quite a bit less than spray Kroil + shipping, so I got one to try. I am goin to try on a few things and see if it worth its weight in salt. I seem to remember it says creep in the name, but I can find the exact name if you like. I realize not everyone needs to worry about spending more than they need to, but some of us do for various reasons.

 

I always thought Kroil smelled a bit like kerosene and looked like hydraulic oil.

 

Would be interested in hearing from those who have had experience with the seafoam brand or with ATF/Kerosene or ATF/Acetone mixes. I did see an on-line article about the Acetone ATF mix, and it seemed at least semi-scientific. I could be wrong, but IIRC they used a torque wrench going on and off of new bolts, and had a "control" bolt. Sprayed each of the several bolts with Kroil, ATF/Acetone, PB Blaster, and WD40 (of course the control was left dry). Then they sprayed them all with some salt water and let them sit outdoors for some period of time until it was all rusty, and measured torque as the removed the nuts at a later time, don't recall how long they sat, maybe weeks or months. The results in my memory was Kroil won, ATF/Acetone almost as good, BP Blaster about half as good as Kroil, nest was WD40 and control bolt in last place. My memory is not great. 

I'm going to do an unscientific test on creepy/seafoam and see how it comes out. Maybe even mix the acetone I always have in the shop with some ATF or Kerosene I can always get another can of spray Kroil if I need to and use the alternatives for less critical stuff. NAPA also gives me a 10% military discount along with holding out on competing with imported junk. 

 

I type this on sleeping medications. Will proof read later if I can. 

[ebinmaine 63,133]

7 hours ago, Jon Paulsen said:

Would be interested in hearing from those who have had experience

 

IMHO ~ no offense intended to others ~ PB blaster as a penetrating oil belongs in the trash.  I've never once had a reasonable experience with it. The company that owns the brand is excellent at marketing, not making penetrating oil. I don't care if it melts styrofoam on the parts store counter. 

 

I've tried, and like, Kroil. But at nearly $20 a spray can it isn't happening. 

 

WD-40 ORIGINAL version is not now and never was a penetrating oil. 

WD-40 PENETRATING OIL is a different formula and works well. 

 

My go-to the last few years has been good ole fashioned

Liquid Wrench PENETRATING OIL. Note the caps. Be conscious of the formula. 

$6 to $8 per can and works excellent. 

 

The online test you speak of may have been Project Farm. I believe he does a reasonable job of trying to be fair.  

 

 

[Tonytoro416 952]

I have been using sea foam deep creep since the winter and I have been pretty impressed with it. Stuck hubs and steering wheels. I just soak it when I’m out in the garage and work on something else. Maybe a day or two before I attempt again so patience is also key I think 

[Gasaholic 183]

12 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Pictures please!

 

[ebinmaine 63,133]

50 minutes ago, Tonytoro416 said:

PATIENCE IS ** KEY

THAT deserves a second mention. 

[Handy Don 10,596]

2 hours ago, Gasaholic said:

 

Interesting design and I can see the convenience for light trailers.

Given that it relies entirely on the drawbar hitch, I would be cautious about loads. The drawbar is ideal for direct pulling but wasn’t designed for high tongue weights or off angle loads.

[Gasaholic 183]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Interesting design and I can see the convenience for light trailers.

Given that it relies entirely on the drawbar hitch, I would be cautious about loads. The drawbar is ideal for direct pulling but wasn’t designed for high tongue weights or off angle loads.

Yup. That's all I wanted it for , just pulling a former single-wide snowmobile trailer that is now used for yard waste hauling, sometimes moving a small camper trailer 50 feet or so and back, etc. not planning any loads on it.  I wouldn't recommend it if you wanted to say, hook up a trailer full of logs or rock, etc. 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,420]

Did some modifications to the hitch.  So I don't need the tow ball a lot and I don't like using it to pull things.  I know the rig won't pull hard enough to damage it but the straps or chains do come off when pulling partially broke and hanging branches.  So wanted to keep the ball hitch option but used a closed loop as well.  Didn't want to buy one cause that's no fun.  So repurposed some old stuff lying around.  I cut the shaft off an old 2" ball I took off an old 92 GMC truck and it's been in a drawer for 20 years or so.  I'm going to use the shaft part to weld on the bottom to brace the hitch off the original rear hitch bar. Just to take out some of the downward twist off the trans in case something is heavy enough to do that.  Then there is enough room and the hitch sticks out far enough that I welded the ball to the top of the receiver.  I won't plan to pull or drag with it, just move a trailer or boat around a little.  Then I had this old hitch that I found buried in the ground at a state park.  It's a monster, rated for 9,000lbs.  Didn't have a ball on it and was damaged on the received end.  I ground the damaged part down and you'd never know now.  I'll use a D shackle to connect straps and chains to it.  So this should serve my needs well with my pulling rig!

 

  

 

ground flush

 

 

 

 

All painted and in finished form!