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Brockport Bill

lift valve leak C175

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Brockport Bill

i have a lift valve leak on a c175 - model, 01-17KE01 ---- However,  on the Toro Parts Viewer my particular lift valve model shows under model 01-17KE03 - on the Parts Viewer there are multiple styles of lift valves. Two lift valves are shown in the diagram for 01-17KE03 as #5 and # 8 - the lift valve model on my tractor is shown in diagram # 8 -- the differences are subtle but tthey have design variations.

 

i plan to order a rebuild kit but never done this type project therefore any tips or suggestions would be appreciated??? I looked for rebuild kit on WheelHorsePartsandMore and found a kit but the photo they have is of the "other Valve" shown in the Toro Parts Viewer as diagram # 5.

 

is it likely the kits are the same?

i will call them but wanted to ask if anyone has taken the lift valve unit apart?

 

I have the tractorr dash panel apart and the front solonoid panel removed and the valve unit disconnected from its mount ---- but can't get leverage to loosen the hoses from the valve unit ----------- so plan to remove the other end of hoses from lift cylinder and the trannny so i can slide hoses out from opposite end  --- then remove the lift valve to replace the hose coupling O rings and disassemble the unit if necessary? 

 

thanks for suggestions??? Bill

Edited by Brockport Bill
there's a imprinted # on the lift valve unit 1500-16 F

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oliver2-44

While Lowell may have the other valve picture posted, give him a call, he probable has the info/parts for both valves.

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Handy Don

Be sure when you open things up to be very careful not to introduce any dirt or other debris into the pump or sump. Hydro pump/motors are intolerant of junk.

Clean throughly before you start work and have a way to plug the openings as soon as you get them open.

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Brockport Bill
17 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Be sure when you open things up to be very careful not to introduce any dirt or other debris into the pump or sump. Hydro pump/motors are intolerant of junk.

Clean throughly before you start work and have a way to plug the openings as soon as you get them open.

will do -  -thanks

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Jeff-C175
6 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

tips

 

When you take it apart, there are some clear mylar shims.  I don't know what their purpose is, but I would suggest making note of their locations, try not to lose them, they are almost invisible, and put them back in the same positions when you reassemble.

 

I rebuilt mine several years ago and that's all I remember about it, except for the fact that when I got the valve out I discovered the reason it was leaking is because the bolts holding the case together were actually quite loose.  Probably could have gotten by just tightening the bolts but it was out and I had the kit...

 

It's actually pretty easy once it's out!

 

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Brockport Bill
3 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

When you take it apart, there are some clear mylar shims.  I don't know what their purpose is, but I would suggest making note of their locations, try not to lose them, they are almost invisible, and put them back in the same positions when you reassemble.

 

I rebuilt mine several years ago and that's all I remember about it, except for the fact that when I got the valve out I discovered the reason it was leaking is because the bolts holding the case together were actually quite loose.  Probably could have gotten by just tightening the bolts but it was out and I had the kit...

 

It's actually pretty easy once it's out!

 

hey Jeff where did you get the kit at that time ? 

 

Do you recall if the valve unit model in your tractor was the one shown here in box # 8 ? There are subtle differences versus Box # 5 -- plus there is a very different design in the unit they show in the 01-17ke01 versus the 01-17ke03.

 

24R10046.gif

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gwest_ca

 

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Jeff-C175
9 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

where did you get the kit

 

I can't recall Bill!  I think it may have been from one of our members that had a kitchen remodeling business.  His website was something like "kitchensnmore".  Someone will remember.  He may still be a member?

 

I also am not sure which valve I have, but I do remember a " stick out the back thing" that looks like #5.

 

My machine is a Sundstrand, so it's a 17KS01 but I don't think it makes a difference in the lift valve s.

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Brockport Bill
10 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

 

yikes  -- thanks for the manual -- thats helful !!!!!!!!!!! The rebuild of the valve unit looks more like a surgeons heart valve surgery to a average guy like me -- hopefully simply repairing/replacing O rings etc for connections will solve oil leak issue - hate to have to do actual entire internal valve unit overhaul  - of course i guess i could resort to finding a used valve unit?

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Jeff-C175
3 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

surgeons heart valve surgery

 

It's really not that bad!

 

But, perhaps it's one of the o-rings at the hose ends?

 

Have you actually located exactly where it's leaking from?

 

 

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Brockport Bill

side tracked to other duties today -- hope to have the valve lift unit out and hoses disconnected on saturday but as usual while doing one tractor project others invite attention..... so while warm temps with low humidity and low wind day here in Hudson Valley i am going to paint the plastic seat pan and the footrests... plus clean tranny fins and then clean and lube parts in the tunnel

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Brockport Bill
On 10/27/2022 at 7:38 PM, 953 nut said:

Lowell should be able to fix you up, give him a call.    https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/lift-valve-rebuild-kit/

thanks  - yes, Lowell and I chatted - have two O rings on order however, the original WH valve rebuild kit #109081, which has added components, does not seem to be available any longer

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oliver2-44

If you find the valve needs rebuilding take it to a good hydraulic shop. The will have all the O-Rings, Mylar washers, seals needed. 

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Brockport Bill
7 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

If you find the valve needs rebuilding take it to a good hydraulic shop. The will have all the O-Rings, Mylar washers, seals needed. 

seems like i have a few options -- rebuild the valve myself, or take it to a shop as you suggest and have them do the rebuild -- or buy a new one -- A factor to consider is i can buy new lift valve unit for $58 -- not sure what taking the current valve to a shop would cost for rebuild but with labor costs as they are presently I sorta wonder whats more or less expensive - a professional rebuild, or buying the new unit for $58 ???

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oliver2-44

Like you, I suspect a new valve woul be equal or less costly than a new valve. Sometimes the challenge with buying a new valve is getting one to fit and mount in the original space. 
 

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