Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'pull engine to change drive belt'.
Found 1 result
-
Well, to start with, this tractor is big and powerful and it is free. My only requirement is to mow a lot with it about three times a year. This could work out because this beastie could live at my farm that takes two hours to mow and is a nice motorcycle ride away. I figure that with 26 horsepower and a 56" cut, it is worthwhile to at least try to get it running. I tried to get a picture off the internet, but could not find much for the MTD [Huskee} 808K First, the spark coils are blitzed. That is what happens when you hook the hot wire to the ground on the solenoid. The ground wire to the coils melted, but I found two non-briggs coils for 36 bucks. So far so good. While waiting for the coils to arrive, I cleaned the carb. It looks like a bowl seal will do the job. The mower was a grimy mess, so I removed an engine killing mouse nest and applied penetrating oil to every fastener I could find. All the sheet metal came off so I could get at things and the mower looked reasonably simple with modular assemblies. Kerosine and a paintbrush followed with Murphy's oil soap and easy rinsing got the thing looking pretty good. this mower has sat in a damp if not wet floor outbuilding for most of its life, and the underside of the deck is pretty rusty as are the pulleys. I just made sense to remove the deck and get it down to the frame and engine. When I noticed how rusty the pulleys were, I figured that they would tear the belts up and a wire wheel and silicone grease would be needed to put them back in shape. the variable drive pulley was removed and the sheave freed up so the variable ratio drive would work. Not even in the same league as a WH tractor with gear or hydro drive, so I wonder how all that engine power could be used to pull anything, So really it is probably just strong enough to pull the tractor itself and the mower deck. You could tell that the Mower had a recent belt change, but the main belt that drives the transmission from the engine pulley had not. First, I got the electric clutch and mower pulley removed , and the operators manual stated that now I could change the transmission drive pulley located above it. Not a chance If it did not slide off easily, it was not coming off.. The frame is but a single stamping and included in that stamping is ears that point down and surround the drive pulley on three sides to keep the belt on the pulley. So these sadistic engineers made it impossible to change a drive belt without pulling the engine. I guess in their world, no pulley ever gets dirt or rust in the keyway and they just slide right off... . The drive pulley was already bent from someone else attempting to pry it off .It was only a fifteen minute job to get out the four engine bolts and manage the engine and drive belt through the frame of the tractor, but i bet that it would be an hour and a half of shop time. That is why these mowers get junked. At least I figured out that the engine had to be pulled to make things happen and it was possible to get at the mounting bolts with a ratchet. I tapped the bent spots on the pulley decent enough to use because the metal was pretty soft To make it possible for the next belt change, those fixed ears that surround the pulley on three sides will get removed with a cutting wheel and removable angle iron guards will be installed in their place to keep the belt from slipping off the pulley while the machine is idling. I will also add a front bumper of sorts to protect the fragile muffler mounted between the front wheels.The mower looks clean and would pass for a well cared for machine when I am done. Maybe I could trade it for a nice 10 or 12 HP old school Red machine? I was glad to have a ceiling hoist as putting the front of the tractor straight up in the air made it much easier to work on. I still think my 43 and 45 year old Horses will easily outlast the MTD, but having a big pasture mower might be OK to use in a pinch and not make me cry is someone steals it.
