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Finished up this model WH a week ago and the 1 year old and 3 year old testing engineers were over tonight to put it through its paces... it received a and performed well in all categories...

Since flying back home my sleep pattern is all out of whack. Woke up at 4:45 this morning and knew going back to sleep wasnt an option (I usually sleep in til 6:30-7:00 on a Sunday). So I loaded my bike and taped a flashlight to my bike frame and hit the trails! Did 12.XX miles. Came up on a tree across the trail that would have been a painful wreck without the light. It only shone out maybe 12’ ahead of me, just enough I guess.

Old 2x4 Old skateboard trucks and wheels Old 10" bolt for steering column Old packing foam Old vinyl from old seat Old paint from previous WH jobs New decals from @Vinylguy Old guy putting it together

September 20, 1973 Billie Jean King defeats Bobby Riggs in the Battle of the Sexes tennis match.

More tape and flashlights...I know you gottem Welcome home.

Almost looks like it's gonna need it's own trailer!

The numbering system rules of thumb devised by Wheel Horse was very logical and easily understandable UNTIL a few exceptions to the rules became a bit unruly. You see, every hard and fast Wheel Horse rule has an exception or two. The first digit of a three digit model numbers tell the horsepower, for example a 654 would have a six horsepower engine. Staying with the 654 the second digit tells us this is an electric start manual transmission. If it was a X0X it would be a manual transmission pull-start engine. If it were a X7X then it would be an electric start hydrostatic transaxle. In 1967 the six speed transaxle was introduced and the number 6 replaced the 0, 5, or 7 as next to last digit. The final number is the year of manufacture, 654 having been a 1964 model. 1963 brought about the first flagrant departure from "THE RULE". If you bought a 603 you got a six HP Tecumseh pull start manual shift No rules broken there. If you bought a 654 you got a six HP Tecumseh electric start manual shift No rules broken there BUT, if you bought a 633 you got a seven HP Kohler pull start with a magneto ignition manual shift . Didn't see that in the rule book? In 1964 the first double digit engine number came along with the introduction of the 10 horsepower 1054 so we had to start the countdown from the right like Arabic or Hebrew. In 1965 the new square hood design was launched and the pesky numbering system got in the way again. Wheel Horse had a store-house full of round fenders and pan seats so a new square hooded round fendered model evolved, the 1045. Several models conforming to the existing system were added to the line-up. 605, 655, 855, 875, 1075, no problem so far. but, the company wanted to retain the 1054 - - - and they had a manual shift version of the 1057 which would be a 1055 so they couldn't just change the four to a five. Just an an A to the 1054. Since the last number changed each year that this system was used, they are all one year only and in my opinion, they are all special.

The belt is on my list of things to replace. It's got a little fray from when a stick caught it. I haven't replaced the bearings yet, but I did regrease the ones in the PTO bell a week ago trying to solve the issue

https://www.facebook.com/reel/2003325627046474

I see bad /dirty connections: Broken frayed wires. = voltage loss Dirty connections, rusty fasteners, frayed wires = voltage loss. Rusty adjustment bolt, rusty attachment points = voltage loss on the ground side. Bad ground connection. Rusty bolt, rusty/dirty block = voltage loss on ground side. It takes 60 amps to crank over a Kohler 8. you need everything clean, tight and no frayed wiring

Does the guy putting it together have to be old? My grandfather made wooden trucks for each of his grandsons and great grandsons when they were born. I'm thinking I might go build some of those for my nephews.

First things first, and this thread seems to be skipping around. Diagnose, don't load the parts cannon. 1) Check the wire @squonk mentioned. 2) Take a base-line voltage measurement at the battery, with the engine off and running. It should be near 13.5 engine running, it should not be less than the static voltage reading. 3) While running, measure voltage with the F terminal of the generator grounded. If the generator is working voltage should shoot up, and the engine should bog a bit. That indicates a regulator issue. 3A) If that DOES NOT happen, you have a generator issue. If the test indicates a regulator issue remove the cover from the regulator and inspect for broken/burnt wires and carbon build up on contacts. It can also be informative to start the engine, with the cover off, in the dark, and look for arcing where it shouldn't be. Since the regulator control voltage by dithering a set of contacts to control field coil ground carbon buildup on the contacts can negatively impact charging performance. The normal arcing that happens in this process can also wear the contacts, like a spark plug or set of points, making adjustments needed. Do NOT make adjustments with the engine running.

Materials list?

pretty sure @squonk means not broken.

That'll buff out

And if you don't use all of the parts, save them for the next one or someone else may need them.

No. 1 Become a supporter and have unlimited picture posting capability. No.2 DO NOT have the battery connected using a meter on OHMS. You can destroy the meter. What do you mean by " No Start Noise?"

Hydraulics done, Coulter wheels and gauge wheel finished. Think I'm ready for a test and tune. 20260918_120940.mp4

There’s one more unaccounted for covered up in the back, needs a battery.

Only problem is he tells me they are pink

Trailing wheel done.

Got the stiffner on this weekend, next up trailing wheel. That'll have to wait till after Pioneer Power Show in Lesueur.

Definitely possibly maybe optional

Well @c-series donwas close. I did remove the tank, drained it, blew it out with compressed air and then I set my air compressor regulator to about 5#, and let the air tank deplete while running air into the gas tank, the I baked it in the summer sun for hours, blew it out again and then replaced the grommet and shutoff valve, replaced the fuel line to the filter and the filter. Has been running like a top ever since.

Getting ready for a local festival parade in our little town. YouTube Video

Nope. Go for it!!! It was fun and the kids loved it! Although the 3 year old wants it motorized...

We were talking about how he might get that in a 16' enclosed with the Big Dog. Be interesting to see how it does at plow day and if a guy will need those coulters. We'll be doing corn stalks which is always a bit more field trash than say bean stubble.

Thank you, seems the factory broke its own rules their first year and most every year thereafter. Guess that explains why the numbering system went away after 1967, confused themselves too much. I knew there would some corrections to this, I will update it my list awaiting future changes needed next time.

@sqrlgtr absolutely love functional detailing , thats where you find the hang ups , regular for me is , MAKING A CHANGE , TO WHAT FAILED ? typically its lubrication , and set up , ever shimmed up the PTO , lever start point ? battery tray side , that literally shows you the way. , every stage , enhanced , what a difference , pete

Make sure the short wire underneath the regulator that goes to the gen is broken.

Got a picture of my dirt working team. The Massey tears things up and makes a mess with the backhoe and bucket, while EJ the 8n smoothes over with a boxblade or grader blade. The hydraulic controls on the Massey are nowhere near as smoother and accurate as the excavators and track loader i have rented. I'm still low in the learing curve on the Massey. I was pleased to discover today that EJ's grader blade has a tilt adjustment on it. Two positions either side of level - maybe 5 and 10 degrees. I shot the adjustment bolts with PB Blaster with hopes of figuring out how that adjustment works tomorrow. Update on EJ's damaged axle threads. I got a die to chase the threads, but don't have a handle for it. The die started on by about a turn, but I didn't force it any further for fear of cross threading it. The adjustable thread chaser I borrowed would require removal of the wheel and hub. Too hot today and not enough time on this trip for that. Same story on the thread file. That left the 2 piece squeeze nut. The instructions said the threads didn't need to be chased, so I tried it. It went on about 2 turns by hand, then needed a wrench to go the rest of the way. Once bottomed, I was able to tighten it with a bounce or six on the end of a 3' cheater bar. I probably got close to the 450 lbft called for. We'll see how long it stays tight with use. In any case, this repair is a band aid to get me a to a spot where I can put a new hub and axle in it.

These are a spirol pin which is spring steel rolled multiple times to form the pin https://www.toro.com/en/product/933190 https://www.toro.com/en/product/933267

It would depend on which side the pin sheared on. Both are 1.25" long but one is 3/16" and one is 5/32" best I can tell. Click on the fuzzy pic below to download the manual for that machine.

Can't find em grind em... I'll take a pound... Got that right ...

Click on Store(support RS) on the line a the top of the page. Should be some thing pending for you to renew.

But wait! There's more! Also figure on a new shift boot, 2 qts of 90 weight gear oil, and case gasket. IF any of the 4 oil seals are even questionable, that is the time to change them. Ahead of time - see if the hitch pin will come out! It must be removed to be able to split the case. Once the Unidrive is apart, other pieces inside may be worn - particularly bearings - that is where it runs into money...

Redo your membership and post pics of your wiring. Ohm setting measure continuity through a wire not voltage. Are all the generator mounting points clean with no rust, dirt and paint?

If the multimeter has an ohm setting on it, signified by an upside down horseshoe, you can hook one prong up to the b(battery) terminal and see if the continuity to the other terminals. If there is continuity it should read 0. Even better if the meter has the beep function because then it will beep if there is continuity.

Wouldn't the 701 have been the first break in the rule since it is a 7 horse power electric start with manual transmission?

Got a slight correction here - The 633 had a 6hp K141, not a 7hp K161. A glitch in the Master Model List calls it a 7hp. This makes the 633 the only 6hp with a Kohler engine. They also made a B-60 "6hp ?" No, this tractor had a 7hp K161 under the hood.

Along the same lines as the 1969 and 1970 Chevy Nova.... same car, different model year.

Get out your torn up jeans,Brylcream tight white T shirts, and roll a pack of cigs into the sleeve................ No Wait! not that kind of Greaser Day. It's time to lube the fleet before the cold weather sets in. Dewalt gun works nice but it's also a pain to operate. ant to top it off, the Lock n Lube end failed. Came with a kit but the thing wouldn't come apart to repair it. So I has to get an old school gun end out. Got a leaky bucket cylinder on Elvis so got that ordered. Heard an engine running all afternoon. My retired engineer neighbor just got a new Westinghouse Genny from Amazon. The recoil was messed up so they sent him a new one. I had to wander over. His solar panels aren't charging his battery bank so he's charging it with the Genny. I mentioned $4.50 a gal gas and he could just plug the bank in to charge it He shrugged his shoulders and said "I know but I like it this way"

Turning the mule drive belt tightening in a clockwise direction will loosen the belt. The only time I have had steering that far out of line it was caused by a driver backing over the front wheel with a 4000 pound SUV but we are still married. Replacement spindles are rather easy to come by since most are interchangeable over a wide range of years and models. from the '70s to '90s.

Replaced both axle seals and brake shaft seal on C160, and thanks to @rmaynard glued up a new brake band for same tractor. Hopefully get put back together tomorrow or maybe this evening.

So the folks working on my house cleaned up most of the debris from the fire. That being said there is alot of small stuff everywhere. Siding, drywall, burnt pieces of lumber, and whatever else you can imagine. Of course this makes mowing a bit of a challenge. So I bought something to drag around and pick it up. Not to mention it will help smooth some of the ruts left by heavy equipment. At least to the point they won't snag the mower deck. I'll report back how it works later this evening.

Couple shots from @JCM & @Raven 's Annual North Berwick Meet n Greet.

Made another set of tie rods and mounted them on th ol 1257 (Vince). With the thrust bearings under the spindles, new tie rods and the larger steering wheel its like having power steering .

Added a receiver hitch to the rear of my RJ-59 to attach a garbage can hauler. I have a very steep driveway and at 66 it is difficult to get the heavy trash cans to the curb. Worked better than expected and I still get joy out of driving my grandfather's tractor he purchased new. BTW this is how I learned to drive!

I did not know those tractors had split front rims