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Mrs Farmer and i were just chillin' in the living room when a young fox squirrel came walking in. He went behind the corner cabinet to hide. She said she had heard a few slight noises through the day and she had the door open for a time. I had a good pellet rifle in the house, but no pellets. Looking frantically in the Stable, i found some .22 birdshot in the tool box. Probably 30 years old. I test fired one and it seemed a little loud. I figured it was time to go with what ya got. When i got back inside, we saw him peek out a bit,and decided to close off the rest of the downstairs, just leaving the large kitchen and the living room. Mrs farmer stayed on the couch and i just outside the doorway for two sets of eyes. Now Mr Squirrel was coming out more often and flitting about faster each time. Finally, he started to line up with my position, but shooting a fixed power 6X scoped rifle would not be easy as it was a blurry outline. I just kept waiting for a decently safe time to shoot finally he sort of charged my position and the flashlight I held under the forearm froze him for a second. Pow! and it was so over. Not a twitch from the little guy and no blood at all .Range to target was about 2 yards Best of all, no damages to anything in the house or persons either. Quite a thrill was had by all. Fortunately the carpet in the living room took care of the loudness of the rifle. As Jeff Foxworthy would say," you know you are a redneck whn you go huntin' in the living room."...

So many of you know i picked this little one up from @WHX24 a few months ago, the tecky was tired so today i started her transplant. Here's the patient before surgery Here is a pic of the donor motor this is a fully rebuilt k161 that had lime green tins on it. I aged them appropriately to match the rest of the tractor Here's she is after receiving the new heart, can you tell the difference? All thats left to do is finish routing cables and fuel line then back on the table for a rebuilt rear end as i plan on running her at jims plow day pulling a pp-8 plow.

Its his dad that makes them disappear he dosnt like the clutter in his garage. I still keep looking at dtallon's build and want to do something like that. here was a photo he posted of his a few years back.

So I’ve had this C-100 for over a year now and it’s been on the back burner for quite some time. I decided to pull it out and go through it. The engine got a full rebuild and bored .020 over, new rear tires on a set of 8.5 wide wheels, and anything that needed to be replaced was taken care of. This machine will be a worker! Here’s a before and after pic for you guys

I'm going to Disney World in a couple weeks with my daughter and her family. She has created a special shirt for me.

Sleeper pulling tractor in the morning. Mowing the lawn by the afternoon.

Well...I put a battery in it and it had spark. So I got froggy and popped the top off the carb and cleaned it on the tractor, hooked up an aux tank and wouldn't you know...she runs like brand new. I'm so stoked right now!!!! Even drives too. 416-h running and driving

Just saved this from someones yard where it has sat for the last 5 years or so I was told. I guess when it would get damp it would intermittent lose spark then one day lost spark all together. As you can see it was pretty disgusting but 30 minutes with the pressure washer and she cleaned up OK. That seat is a lost cause so I didnt even bother. It's going right in the trash. As you can see the engine is very clean and doesn't appear to be jammed full of grass so I'm hoping that its just a diagnose the spark issue, clean carb and run some new fuel line and we end up with a nice runner. Oil actually looks pretty decent too. Hoping the hour meter works and that 514 is correct. Anyone know what year this one is?

Just finished another series of color formula tests to try and get an acceptable color match to the "off white or linen beige" color that was apparently used throughout the 60's and 70's on many original decals. Yet I also have customers over the the past 12 years who have sent me images of their original hood decals and they in fact look white? Always been a personal choice thing to me and I have an updated color to show for you all to offer opinion on. My plan is to start offering all my 60's and 70's sets in both color selections soon after the lake closes next Month. Will have 6 Months at home to update my listings on the website. Always striving to improve on my products to get them as close to original as possible with my existing technology. Thanks in advance for your feedback. Image quality could have been better and color on monitors is not as vibrant as the actual decals.

Just joined and have to say this is a really well put together Wheel Horse site. New to the ownership of the Wheel Horse and just acquired my first two horses. The first is this B-81. Fella had it for free and picked it up from a friend. Had no idea what it was prior to a buddy dropping it off to me. Needles to say it has seen better days. Transmission is sketchy and seems to have some teeth broke of somewhere in it. Figured I would just steel parts from it. The next is a 414-8 I reckon an early model? Doesn't have the hour meter. Not sure if that is a year indicator or not? This thing rocks! Need to look for a tiller and going to try and retrofit a couple of three point plow and cultivator to it.

Finally got around to doing this. Here are pics of what the almost final project will look like and a small area I tried it out on. I ended up with a 9" pulley on the motor. The tines aren't moving real fast but they do sure turn up the dirt. If I don't hold down the brakes the tiller will move the tractor. I do have a video of the unit running just can't figure out how to up load.

Wonder if he'll come back with a new friend?

Beauty (or choice) is in the eye of the beholder! I always subscribed to the idea that they were white originally, and are just varying degrees of off-white as they aged with time. No matter what... thanks Terry for all you do for us and our hobby!!

Time for the Wheelhorse for some Service. I went home and Hermes at same time arrives with the new ordered Clutch. I immediately try to dismount the burned Clutch, but it‘s resited. Then i dismount the whole Shaft from Engine with the clutch, what goes way easier. Open Spanner of Engine belt, let it slip down and try to pry the burned clutch with tender hammer blows arround the clutchbody of. after 5 min, i increases the hammerblows and suddenly - fup- , the clutch was down. i looked at, yap definitely to weak torque, all clutchfriction parts really lights blue.. Than i inserted the new Clutch, what fits niceley and greasing all necessary Parts for Movement and quick mount/ dismount, hinges, splints and levers. Even quick verify and greasing the spindles again while mowerdeck was out, than i looked about sharpness, but they still good. So it becomes dark and i hurry, to mow a bit of the deeper grass, where before the Cluch give up, just to see if my diagnosis was right. Half throttle, full Speed down to the high Grass along the Trees (500m far and back) with med. setup. whilst back, the Engine just play again a bit with the Throttle but not impressive. The Cut was nice, but after i‘m back, i smell a bit weared rubber. ok, it seems the Belt gives now up, no wonder about last thermal Stress. After i‘m stopping the Mowerdeck i touch immediately the Cluch. Cold, just the pulley seems a bit warm, but far from a critical Temp, maybe 30* C thats fine. than, now it‘s dark outside and i mow with Light, i jumped upstairs, grab the torch and take 2 Pics. i know, no Story was happen without evidence... 😂 The new Clutch with now weared Belt Hardly to take a good pict about real height 18cm on left, cutted at once. I think this works well with new Belt again.

Many thanks to those who responded. I found out it was the seat switch, one terminal had disconnected. Hooked everything up and it works great now!! 👍

You don't necessarily have to use them in the front. I find them more useful in the back.I actually use one on the back of one of my RJs. Have also used two of them in the back of my Electro in the past.

Also found a new old stock muffler. The rear tires are 23X8.5 12. I’m happy with them Under cover is the Goat

Its only on the left side, this side is on top of the furrow and aids a little in traction, mostly for looks like the big tractors

Here are the pics I promised ebinmaine . First pic is the monster we found . userj8670 believes it's a 50 HP made in Bradford P.A. Second is the ( still intact clutch ). Third is some belts and (presumably) an idler / reducer setup. Fourth is a pic of the sucker-rod eccentric(s) and drive wheel . I have never seen so many rods connected to a drive system here before ! Fifth is a pic of the tension-er arrangement . Sixth is userj8670 standing next to the opposite side of pic #3 .

I clicked on a picture in my files of a caboose Dog Mike and Steve and a fish came up,,,,,,,,,,,, I don't know what went wrong but I can't stop laughing!!!!!

OR LOST!

I'm with Craig. Keep it and make it your own. I hope I'm not sounding like a jerk but I just get a little irritated when I give somebody something and all of a sudden it isn't theirs anymore. That wasn't why I gave them whatever it was....

I can't answer for you what it would be worth but I would absolutely not give something like that to any family that makes things disappear. Just too rare of a bird. Actually, I'm kind of old school.... I would probably not give ANYTHING to a family that makes things disappear....

Some days it seems like that and then you remember that yesterday you shot your mouth off on the forum and talked about politics or something and realize how great the mods. are for putting up with you so long............

Ooooooohhhhh, i got strong headaches- got ideas.... ooooohhhhhh....... I cannot lurking sidely, why ? i see this.... I lay‘s here and screamed to me.... 😂

I would sell the predator and then see if someone like AtoZ would be interested in the remains and parts of the loader. parting something out yourself is a time consuming PIA.

Sounds like yours should be pretty rugged with that spray on bed liner. That's usually pretty tough stuff. We took this on our maiden voyage down to see @JCM Jim and his family over the weekend. It went excellent. One thing that is important to remember is that this is NOT a box store cheap landscape trailer. My trailer has a net load carrying capability of over 2500 lb. GVW is 3400 lb. The side rails on this trailer were overbuilt right from the factory and are in great condition. I do want to thank @SALTYWRIGHT Russ for bringing some things to my attention. I was not super happy with the way the Cinnamon was rocking about 1/2" on the way down. At Russ's attention-getting I changed the way we did the straps for both tractors. On the return trip and I was much much happier. No movement whatsoever.

The best way to find areas of compression loss is to do a leak-down test. This consists of bringing the piston to top dead center (or a bit past for Kohler because of ACR) and applying air pressure to the cylinder (head secured to the engine) to see where air is being expelled. Lots of videos of it in the internet. You can look over this tutorial by @prondzy, it is excellent and will show you what to look for as you dive into this project.

Also included were the original operator manual, brochure, parts and service manual and the cut sheets for the blower, cab, and deck. All in pristine condition!

Harbor freight sells the identical set. I've used mine several times with these tractors and motors, its handy and works good .

I picked this up recently. 418a 127 hrs, cab, 2 stage nos blower and a mint 48” deck. I replaced the drive belt this weekend and changed the oil. Smooth as butter! I will put the cab back on (that has the glass windshield) and make it a dedicated snow machine.

I use a 5/16" wood dowel stick. Put them side by side and scribe a line on the wood dowel in the same position as the full mark on the round stick. Then scribe another line where the round stick fastens into the plug. Cut off the stick about 3" longer than where it is scribed as the top of the stick. Mark this end as the top. For scribing the line I use a tubing cutter. Whenever you want to check the oil take the round metal stick out and stick the wood dowel into the case until the top mark is flush with the crankcase. Even with new oil a clear mark is left on the wood dowel. Wipe the dowel off and save it in your special tool drawer to use any time you wish to check your oil. Obviously this only works with engines that have the same length dipsticks Eric.

Painted some rims about a week ago Mounted the tires on the rims, checked the hubs and put the wheels on the tractor

First try rotating does not work,lifting and extending does,lift uptill now is 220kg. Rotating works with a steeringhouse off a visa connected to a hydraulic cylinder,maybe pulling out off line with one will try to add another cylinder and try again. supporting legs is new model which can swivel over the tires to give the crane as much support as possible,still needs work to get it more stabil. takelproef.mp4

Happy Birthday Doug , be careful of the crew in the basement. They will get you in trouble.

Do that!!!

Hells Bells! should have taken the day off! (Birthday Party note: DO NOT USE SPARKLERS FOR CANDLES!!! ) Happy Birthday Doug !

Happy Birthday!! Have a great day!!

Sounds like you got nothin on Clark! My wife's favorite scene!

Nice score. I'd be switching out those six-inch wheels on the front. It drives me nuts seeing such small wheels on a machine like that!

That's a mean lookin' horse Bob... wonder who's gonna win the stare down?

One of those bearing separators in the link above will get it off. They can be purchased separately, I use one with my harmonic balancer puller. They need to be pulled off but they are not super tight on there. To put back on put some oil in a container, heat it up with bearing in there. Use a hot plate or something similar, hot bearing will slide right on. Will have to look, it seems like when a little haze comes off of oil it is hot enough. Been a while since I have had to do this.

There is likely a 2-wire connector on the wiring harness that comes out of the engine. One wire goes to the lights. The other will be the one that charges the battery. Pull the covering or tape off the wire on the engine side of the connector. You are looking for a diode that is about 3/16" in diameter and 3/8" long. Garry

I'm looking at your pictures and I do not see anything wrong. Depending on how you explained some of the things you tried, that is exactly what is supposed to happen. The differential gears look brand new. Maybe bolt that differential back together...if you then turn one axle, the other should turn in the opposite direction. If you are just holding the differential in your hands...not in the trans case...turning one of the axles will turn the other one in the opposite direction, and you will not be able to hold one from turning. If this is true, your differential is fine. If the differential is in the trans case and you are turning the trans from the input shaft, then you can hold one of the axles and the other will turn. This is what a differential does. I'm thinking Richard is correct about the input shaft key...if both of the wheel hub keys were OK. Don't forget...you have a key on the engine drive pulley also. BTW...welcome to Red Square.

Happpyy birrtthhddaay!

Here's what we ended up with ladies and gentlemen. @RandyLittrell

What? You guys don’t recognize it? That is the ultra rare airport safety green used for airport commercial applications...

I have used a Craftsman "Click Style"since the late 1960s and it has served me well. I have no idea how accurate it is, but when torquing a cylinder head or differential assembly I think repeat-ability is the most important thing. If all of the bolts are torqued to 38 ft/lb rather than 35 the torque is off by ten percent but are uniform. I would rather trust a mechanical torque wrench than a digital electronic one any day.