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Just saved this from someones yard where it has sat for the last 5 years or so I was told. I guess when it would get damp it would intermittent lose spark then one day lost spark all together. As you can see it was pretty disgusting but 30 minutes with the pressure washer and she cleaned up OK. That seat is a lost cause so I didnt even bother. It's going right in the trash. As you can see the engine is very clean and doesn't appear to be jammed full of grass so I'm hoping that its just a diagnose the spark issue, clean carb and run some new fuel line and we end up with a nice runner. Oil actually looks pretty decent too. Hoping the hour meter works and that 514 is correct. Anyone know what year this one is?

I'm going to Disney World in a couple weeks with my daughter and her family. She has created a special shirt for me.

First try rotating does not work,lifting and extending does,lift uptill now is 220kg. Rotating works with a steeringhouse off a visa connected to a hydraulic cylinder,maybe pulling out off line with one will try to add another cylinder and try again. supporting legs is new model which can swivel over the tires to give the crane as much support as possible,still needs work to get it more stabil. takelproef.mp4

I picked this up recently. 418a 127 hrs, cab, 2 stage nos blower and a mint 48” deck. I replaced the drive belt this weekend and changed the oil. Smooth as butter! I will put the cab back on (that has the glass windshield) and make it a dedicated snow machine.

Can not find much information on these little mowers. I did see dtallon's thread a few years ago but that seems to be the only other photos or information about them around. I saw it listed on Craigslist and went and scooped it up. Figured it would look good sitting next to the RR-65 I already own. BTW still looking for a replacement gearbox for it. Any info on these little " work horses" ? Are there many around? Why did Wheel Horse even come up with the Work Horse name and different paint? Dosnt seem to be of the same quality or craftsmanship of the traditional Wheel Horse name. Between this one and the REO RR-65 I am starting my own miniature horse farm.

Well...I put a battery in it and it had spark. So I got froggy and popped the top off the carb and cleaned it on the tractor, hooked up an aux tank and wouldn't you know...she runs like brand new. I'm so stoked right now!!!! Even drives too. 416-h running and driving

Painted some rims about a week ago Mounted the tires on the rims, checked the hubs and put the wheels on the tractor

I got my Wheelhorse in 2004 when I was 14 (I am 28 now), my Grandfather had a Lawnflite and ever since I really wanted a lawn tractor. I saved up doing chores and mowing lawns etc, and finally we went to a garden machinery place in our local town to see if there was any I could afford. Outside were a lot of customer machines, and I was instantly drawn to a Wheelhorse, as a fan of classic cars and machinery it just stuck out to me. The owner came out and started talking to me and my parents and said he had one just like it, but black indoors. We had a look and I still remember seeing it for the first time, love at first sight I suppose I think my Dad said "wow, that's like the Dodge Charger of lawnmowers!" haha. I paid £300 (I live in England) for it, it was the first vehicle of any sort I bought myself. Had it ever since Here is a picture of it the day I got it, and now: Aside from the fact these machines are so tough, easy to work on, and just really cool, it is a machine I grew up with as did my friends, and I could never get rid of it I hope one day I can pass it down to my children. I only have the one Horse, I don't have space for any more at the moment but really enjoy reading about other people's machines and also of course, Wheelhorse fans seem to be the nicest people around

Bring the tractor to my place ... leave it for two years to make sure I fixed it.....

This is my wheel horse 702, just in the absence of adjustments !!

After you pull out the dipstick lay it on a paper towel in you hand, it will give you an indication of the level when next to the dipstick

I agree. It is very hard and frustrating to read the round dipsticks. I have modified mine by grinding a flat on one side and painting that area black. I grind the flat with a coarse stone so it leaves a real rough surface to catch oil.

just as good as, if not even better than the original !

With my Gt1600 in the garage getting new brakes it seemed like the perfect time to install the stud kit I bought off Bob @rmaynard a couple years back. Checked the hub set screws while I was in there. This is a dedicated plow machine so it gets worked hard. I decided to leave my inner and outer weights on (call me lazy), it’s still a chore to get em mounted but for sure it’s easier than using the old style lug bolts. She just needs an oil change and she’ll be ready for winter. Definitely not a “pretty tractor” but it’s so dang dependable, she earned a bath with soap and all

I use a 5/16" wood dowel stick. Put them side by side and scribe a line on the wood dowel in the same position as the full mark on the round stick. Then scribe another line where the round stick fastens into the plug. Cut off the stick about 3" longer than where it is scribed as the top of the stick. Mark this end as the top. For scribing the line I use a tubing cutter. Whenever you want to check the oil take the round metal stick out and stick the wood dowel into the case until the top mark is flush with the crankcase. Even with new oil a clear mark is left on the wood dowel. Wipe the dowel off and save it in your special tool drawer to use any time you wish to check your oil. Obviously this only works with engines that have the same length dipsticks Eric.

for what you tell me is to tighten the screws to the end without forcing them and loosen the turns that you put in the photo?

I have the same trouble -- maybe because I'm homing in on 80yrs?? But seriously, I take my propane torch and slightly heat the tip to a brown/blue.

After I pulled in the driveway last weekend with my 5th machine (a very nice 418a with 126 hrs) my wife said “I think you have a problem”. I said you think? I told her it is the thrill of the hunt! There are an amazing number of Wheelhorses out in the wild but only a few I want to drag home!

Here are the pics I promised ebinmaine . First pic is the monster we found . userj8670 believes it's a 50 HP made in Bradford P.A. Second is the ( still intact clutch ). Third is some belts and (presumably) an idler / reducer setup. Fourth is a pic of the sucker-rod eccentric(s) and drive wheel . I have never seen so many rods connected to a drive system here before ! Fifth is a pic of the tension-er arrangement . Sixth is userj8670 standing next to the opposite side of pic #3 .

There is likely a 2-wire connector on the wiring harness that comes out of the engine. One wire goes to the lights. The other will be the one that charges the battery. Pull the covering or tape off the wire on the engine side of the connector. You are looking for a diode that is about 3/16" in diameter and 3/8" long. Garry

https://www.eastwood.com/5-ton-bar-type-puller-bearing-set-atd-tools.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&msclkid=ab049e62993818480493c31c552c2556 This will remove it, it will not install it.

Agreed. But it ran good before I broke it so I'm hoping to get it back together.... If it don't go.... The Briggs just stays in place. Or maybe a nice Kohler 12........?

The easiest and best solution to this problem was manufactured by Kohler.

While a press is ideal, if that bearing isn't too tight a fit, you may be able to walk it off with a nail bar something like this . You want to work it between the gear and bearing and ideally put the force on the bearing race down at shaft, not the outer bearing race. If possible slip a piece of sheet copper or thin sheet metal against the gear so you don't mess up the gear teeth. just rock it back and forth in there, rotate rock, rotate, etc. If it's snug you hay have to 'gently" drive the short end of the bar in the small space and use the long length as leverage to pry it away from the gear.

Here's my set on the front of my 1067. There's a 4" x 8" rims with tubes. These don't have any bulge to them .

Be handy for lifting logs onto a trailer or saw bench.

Here you go...

Shallow well pump! Thats a mid 40s, early 50s or so model. Think the model is 50e. I have a few similar.

Pretty sure it is a water pump.

Thanks Garry, those will come in handy. Right now it seems to run pretty good. Not sure what I want to do with it. I live in the city and have no need for a riding mower of any size but here I am with another one. Waiting for help to get it out of the back of my truck so I can go over it. I am finishing up my cancer treatment, 33 rounds of radiation to the head and neck takes its toll on you. Funny how there isnt any photos or much information on these. If it wasnt for everyone here I wouldnt find any Thank You Red Square

If you save that pic and blow it up, you can see its not a picture of 4.80-8 tires. They 12 or 15's, I couldn't tell. 4.80-8's will fit what you want with tubes I'm pretty sure. Randy

Okay now you know we're going to need pictures of that. @JCM Jim would want to see that too.

If you knew how much work is involved in making the seats @BOB ELLISON makes you would understand why no one else is doing it. Bob's work is top notch!

Commando V8

No regulator. Just a diode the rectify a 3 amp stator to charge the battery and a 2nd stator that powers the lights only with AC current. Garry

An easy way to R & R wheels with weights or weighted wheels or both: Go to HF and get one of those dollies to move cars with. Jack up the tractor enough to get the dollie under the tire. Unbolt the wheel and roll it out and visey versey to re-install.

Good deal

Is that an eaton 1100? Nice!!!

I grabbed the picture on the e bay ad without even looking closer, good eye! Here is a more appropriate representation:

K singles with a screw in dip stick are read NOT screwed in. Techys with screw in are read screwed in.

Looks like it is a 1990 416H Automatic. Nice find.

That's the part that's going to help you put them on different types of rims. Using tubes of course will expand the tire a little further than just trying to catch the bead being tubeless. I'll check the width on Trina's Pony tractor in a little while. Hers is a 657 so it would have the narrow rims but I don't know why you couldn't put those on 70's vintage rim with a tube.

The only issue should be the snow plow which will require the kit to lengthen the frame around 4" to clear the front tires. Snow blower is not an issue. For the rototiller, you will need to move the rear lift from your old machines to the 520. The 520 should already have the tube for the lift cable to pass through but if not you will need that. Also, the clevis that attaches the cable to the rock shaft is a different length on the hydro VS 8 speed. You can get any parts you need here. https://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/ Cleat

Hauled this little 85 D100 short bed up to a local swap meet yesterday and today. I think I have 6 of these trucks and I really don't need that many. They follow me home like WH's do for some people. Bought it from a guy who was going to put a small block chevy in it (sacrilege, IMO). He threw away the AC and heater box, every piece of trim on the truck and scrapped the engine and trans. I threw a Magnum 318 and 5 speed manual overdrive in it and got it running Thursday evening. Took it to the swap meet and I only had one guy interested in it.. and he offered me half of what I was asking. Fairly sad swap meet. Half of the spaces were empty and the foot traffic was nearly non existent. Got home and saw a text from the guy I got my Porsche 928 from a month or so ago saying he's looking for a truck project. He's coming to look at it after lunch tomorrow! Hopefully I can get it sold and make a little bit.

Looks like ol550 nailed it. 1970 models 1-4851 and 1-4852. Garry

No worries Russ. As a professional CDL driver and having spent many hours in training with DOT and OSHA I assure you it's safe to use. I've even consulted with a commercial trailer and truck body builder. The tractors and trailer weigh a combined 1600 lbs or so. The cross ramps are rated at 1000 lbs. The heavier of the two is 575. The ramps are bolted to the trailer rails with 4 bolts each. DOT rules require 2 straps. Each tractor is held down with 4 straps. Each strap is WLL rated to hold more than the weight of a tractor. . Trina and I are both VERY safety conscious both by mindset and training.

The poor boy... he's in our prayers.

Our county fair started today and the elementary schools are busing students over to enjoy the big doings. I took a couple out as part of the tractor and engine club display, the little guys seemed to approve!