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Set the D-200 out in the sun today 98 degrees to help bake the paint, been in shop for 3 months. Need to get some tail lights yet.

Skonk had to get into the act and carry the flag today. 520 as Honor Guard.

Waterloo N.Y. is the "Official Birthplace of Memorial Day" It all started in 1865 when a group of villagers decided to honor their Civil War dead. In keeping up with this solemn occasion we have a 'Wheels on Main St. show on the Sunday before Memorial Day. There's a parade on Saturday, a Parade on Monday, a parade on the 30th which is the Official Memorial Day (at least around here), fireworks a few feet from my house, YOU NAME IT! Well today rain is threatening and turnout is way down but I managed to sneek my 701 into the IH space. Their turnout is so small this year they didn't move my tractor without my knowledge

Probably had a crack in it where it mounts. And the crack on it too

I've posted in other threads about this rig in the past. It was most likely a commercially sold splitter when new. It was rebuilt and upgraded by the previous owner. He is a professional logger and the wood he burned is the bottom stumps of the tree after the feller comes through... He cut them off and took them home. Free wood but big and hard to handle and split. Our machine has a 20 ton or larger ram, and the push head and splitting wedge have both been added on to for splitting larger pieces. Well it still had the little 4.00/4.80 x 8 tires and rims and we knew when we got it that both wheel bearing sets were beyond trash. Also, the height of the work beam was just at the wrong level... Several inches below where your back is bent just a little too much. I pulled off the wheels and bearings and discovered that the axle stub fit a set of hubs I had here so I replaced the assembly on both sides with 15" trailer tires.... Just fit!!! Before Middle After

Spent most of the day in the shop yesterday cleaning, organizing, moving some things around. All in an effort to get the B80 in there to be worked on. I've been to a few shows over the years but never brought anything of my own. This year I've decided to bring my future "Patriot Horse". To at least one or two. The painting project was put on hold last year so I could work on the Cinnamon C160. Well late yesterday... My honey, not me.... ... Peeled all the sheet metal off the B and we ground off the rust and she washed the parts and primed them. Here is a whole tractor pic with the splitter I took yesterday... "Before" Couple other before pics. (This is the blue we'll be using.) And some primed parts. Steps will also be blue. They just didn't make it in to the photo shoot. Engine and wheels will be antique white. I already have a full set of stickers from @Vinylguy that will be installed as well. When we get more time to completely disassemble the tractor the frame, seat base/tool box and steering tower will likely be repainted red.

1st.. check the fluid level. DO NOT OVERFILL. (if pinkish = ATF, otherwise use 30w oil). 2nd... drive it around for 10 minutes or so to bring the oil up to normal operating temp. 3rd...try to drive it FORWARD up a steep hill, turn around and BACKWARD up the hill. (If it doesn't pass this test, the hydro pump and/or hydro motor are in need of rebuild .) 4th...use chain to tie off to a tree to see if rear wheel(s) spin. If it passes all these tests, taake it home. If it has hydraulic lift, work that up/dow too. Also...after the 'testing' If you see oil drips on the floor, it will probably need seals somewhere.

Helping out a local Shrine with some new property they just picked up. It needed a bit of weed "whipping"... C-105 did the job with no complaints. Amazing power...

only one more thing needed! for that ugly seat!

That tractor is "Hers" now!

I can't believe it's been over a month since I've touched this rig but we've been Sooooo busy!!!! Just a quick one today. I put the hubs and wheels on using a kit from @rmaynard. I need to be able to reposition it in the shop a bit. Next project is to tear apart the 8 speed and clean it from inside to eliminate a grinder style wheel bearing.

Today's update on the B80 sheet metal painting project

So last night i was browsing facebook and see a 701 for 125 bucks. i looked at it and i was hmmm doesnt have original hood or belt guard. i thought about it for a bit and then it hit me. hoods are not cheap and i needed one for 753. so i asked guy if it was available and then called my friend because i do not do city driving much. so we went this morning and traveled just north of chicago and i bought it. and i got a little extra guy threw in. come to find out he bought a new dash peice for it and it was in his garage lol. so its not perfect. but it will provide parts if needed for my 701. i already am going to pull the front rims and the toolbox for my 701. so it cost me about 175 bucks in all to get it home so not bad. once home i put the hood on the 753 and seat too. and i noticed frame was busted on this 701 so not a lost at all.

Beautiful!! Real nice job.

One word.....N I C E

Beautiful tractor. great Work!! I would strongly recommend you put a filter on the FEL. Never understood why Wheel Horse thought a suction screen was adequate.

I use lots of old equipment. Wheel Horses are mostly in the 40-50 yr old range my farm tractors are 65-74 years old my M37 is 67. They all work....but if one of them develops a problem its not like I have to have it because I have to get to work or the grass is growing snow pileing up etc.... If you only have one unit and have "must do's" get something new....

I'm ok with that ..... IF ...... I can get another....

As long as the K-341 isn't off a shaker mount. For all practical purposes a 10, 12, 14 and 16hp models are the same size on the exterior. I put a 16 on a 76 B-80 and it was bolt in but in 76 and 77 the B's were the same frame, tranny, etc. as the C's.

Well, two things here...either someone spent a lot of time messing up a good horse...or somebody spent a lot of time messing up a good horse. it is a Wheel Horse frame. Front tires are from a Lawn Ranger. The hood is from 1960, but has been heavily modified. Not sure where the seat is from. The fenders look like they were from a horse, but have been modified. Wheel Horse never used Wisconsin engines. The Ponds used Wisconsin's on their Senior horses. I don't mean to be picking it apart...the Seniors were a one of a kind also. Does it run?? Somebody loved it enough to keep it running. Interesting for sure.

I bought a 1973 16 automatic, so I no longer need the 1973 12-8 speed. It will come with an extra set of running boards, tire chains and a replacement belt for the snow thrower. I'm asking $750 for everything.

OK, let's nip this post before we get TMI.

Well that's what I thought Ritchie but there isn't a crack in the metal it just flexes. The other crack flexes all the time.

Here is a picture of it just below the axle. It is 1/2" wide, 1" long and 1/4" stock and is flat.. The bolts that hold the side plates on are 1/2"...the bolt that holds on this piece is 3/4". It has a 1/4" hole for the end of the spring. They are easy to make.

Always a good day just hanging out and relaxing with friends at a local engine show. Not sure what the button thing is either but did see people walking around with button ribbon thingys pinned to their shirts. I know Sparky deserved a first place blue ribbon for putt'n up with my jokes and BS all day!

The op has been told numerous times about why he shouldn't use his username as a subject title....for some reason, he won't comply. Oh well, some people won't learn, I guess. I edited the title to a more appropriate title. I also merged his two threads.

Happy Memorial Day weekend, And thanks to all--both here and gone. Picked up a Johnny bucket laat week from @snowhound. Decided today to clean the carb on my 310 and get it running... then decided the Johnny bucket should go on it... then decided the 25" atv tires that were on a GT2500 I again got from Snowhound (Ed) should go on it... then decided the 6" fronts had to go and found a set of 18" ones. Put it all together and adjusted travel on bucket so it would scrape if I wanted. Need threaded rod and nuts / bolts for the weights--off to hardware store tomorrow. Im impressed with the huge ground clearence. Im going to use it alot for moving small things around. I also think my father is going to want to use it to move some loam / mulch around. Tony

Air conditioned headlights, what will you Floridians come up with next?

Decided I’d rather finish the turning brakes and add hydraulics before I do complete tear down and paint. I made some headway this afternoon. It’s a bit difficult to see but the calipers are mechanical and the engagement lever is normally low and when pulled in upward direction will brake. I fabbed up brackets, threaded rod and pulleys to route the brake cable today.

I've been using this stuff for the last 8 years, PRI/G. I ran across it at the local JD tractor dealer, the guy said they had been selling the PRI/D (for diesel) for years. The farmers use it in their large diesel storage tanks, he said it works great so they started carrying the gas formula. Supposed to keep gas fresh for up to a year, and then you can retreat it every year, also heard it will freshen up old gas. I don't know about all that, but have used treated gas that was at least a year old and it looked and worked fine. At the beginning of hurricane seasoning I treat 60 gallons of gas with it. It's cheaper than StA-Bil,1oz treats 16 gallons of gas, a bottle on Amazon costs $29.99 and treats 250 gallons. It also supposedly does more the StA-BIL does for your engine, top end, and carb stuff, again I don't know about all that. I can say in the last 8 years I've had no carb issues with any of my stuff. Now, I only use non ethanol gas in my equipment so maybe this is over kill, I am a bit anal, but it's cheap and I want my stuff to work when I need it. I have used it in my truck, and when I do I get a mile more per gallon. 2015-PRI-G-Flyer.pdf

Good morning all, Saw the 1960 movie "Sink the Bismarck" on tv... watched it then was googling and reading about the two biggest battleships of the day... the HMS Hood and the Bismarck. Hard to imagine that we as humans can build such powerful stuff and yet in one weeks time completly destroy all of it and kill 3500 men while doing it. R.I.P all involved Tony

Thanks. @DennisThornton Pretty sure i detailed the basic brake parts I started with. The calipers are mechanical Cub calipers which I modified. The discs themselves I made from eBay blank steel discs. There are dozens of ways to skin the proverbial cat. If I were to do again, I’d likely go hydraulic. But once I get these mocked up and built, they should be bullit proof.

seafoam and 93 octane, no issues

With all the modifications it's pretty much impossible to nail it down. Either a 400, 550 or 401. You might be able to determine the year of the transmission by the numbers on it.

I have been using SeaFoam. Under $7 at walmart for a can. 1 oz per gallon. If you are going to use Sta-bil, get the green kind which is used in marine engines. I have been told that the red sta-bil contains alcohol (to absorb water) and lord knows there is already 10% alcohol in the gas at the pump. I am a snowbird. I see first tropical depression is heading your way. Let's hope this season is kinder than last season

Glen Pettit, in the vendors section has them. There is another thread going on right now on this subject. Check it out

It'll fit. The only thing may be the spec of the replacement engine. Wheel Horse spec Kohler engines have threaded holes in the bottom of the oil pan for mounting bolts to go through the frame and into those threaded holes. You should see these threaded holes in your 10hp oil pan

Note fellas: Hes got a "D" model with the big 18hp 482 twin, and that is a whole different ball game from the KT17s - though they are fun too! You are looking at a mess there, parts for the 482 and its big brother the 532 are scarce. If your rod disintegrated - which it must have - rods are almost impossible to find, tho as 953 mentioned about Brian Miller, he does rods up to accept inserts, and your crank is also probably bad and he has some crankshafts. You would just have to contact him to see just what he could do. Probably gonna hit your wallet pretty hard whatever route you take. Then if your cyl wall is scored, can it be bored enough to clean it up....heres a link to - a looong page - covering what I mentioned http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/balance.htm Ive got both the K482 and the K532 and in trying to head off something like youve got, I elected to go into them and do an inspection, replacing/repairing/cleaning them and went ahead and added fresh pistons/rings/gaskets, etc. They both were very clean with nominal wear - thank goodness!

Some heavy high grass to get through and a nice job doing it. Glenn

Try wiggling the PTO lever while turning the key to "start" position. May just need to find the sweet spot for the PTO safety switch.

I use a few old Swiss pattern riffler files for cleaning/smoothing those engine fins on air-cooled units, they work excellent. Similar to these- https://www.amazon.com/Mercer-Abrasives-BCRIFS-Riffler-8-Piece/dp/B0052RQ4WE/ref=sr_1_86?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1527423281&sr=1-86&keywords=swiss+pattern+file+set Just avoid the Chinese made diamond type - they only last a few strokes before the grit layer comes off. On engines that are known to get worked hard or run hot, spending the time to smooth and clean up those fins goes a long way in helping service life. Not to mention, it helps keep debris from building up again. Sarge

For some unknown reason, this phenomena seems to be occurring more and more frequently with new members. They seem to be in such a rush to ask a question, they don't stop to think about the implications of what they are doing. I've given countless newbies insight into why they SHOULD NOT put their user names in the thread subject line. For some reason it never occurs to them 10, 20, 30, 40, or 50 threads with the same title by the same poster might be confusing as h-e-double hockey sticks to everyone else here. Searching through multiple posts with the same subject line is maddening! Please ALWAYS begin a thread with a title relevant to the subject being discussed or question being asked. Please. Somewhere down the line, hopefully you'll have a "eureka moment" and understand why this is important. Regards, Steve

I've often wondered - those commercial-sized walk behind wheeled weed wackers.... Why couldn't a guy use one of those heads/frame and mount it on a carrier off of the front mule drive mount and use the pto from the engine to drive it for knocking down such problem areas? Wouldn't be any more dangerous than the front mounted sickle mower, plus a lot less prone to damage/breakage. Sarge

That makes it sooo much easier dealing with tires. Replacing all my lugs eventually with lug studs and nuts. Actually one of the best upgrades you can make on any garden tractor.

I would like a front deck carrier but not for AC. Would be handy mowing around bushes. 👍

All Ritchie needs is a front deck carrier and he could mount that portable AC on that!

My suggestion would be to weld a washer to the bolt first then weld a nut to the washer. A man I know who works for lincoln welding taught me that trick. Doing alot of automotive exhaust over the years means removing alot of broken studs. Nothing I hate more than trying to drill hard metal out of softer surrounding metal. Since learning this trick I have taken my success rate from 60% to 95% compared to just trying to weld a nut on it. The reason is that using the washer gives you a bit more control and ability to penatrate the stud. Good luck. Joel

A nice collectable Wheel Horse toy

Need new points, plug,condenser. Fuel pump would not pump fuel so off it comes and an electric pump will take it’s place. Building a mount monday. So while I am waiting to get parts, figured I would get my headlight situation taken care of. The factory light housing fits fine with the fuel tank but it hits the wires and presses them into the socket lip. So rather than try to fix it, upgrade it. 😁 I had gotten another headlight housing from Aldon but when I got it, it was cracked from shipping, so I had no problem modifying it. I made a plate for the top and cut my holes for twist in halogen bulbs. I’ll replace them later with LED replacements. I had some small fans from I bought a long time ago from a surplus place. Mounted it up and will drill the air feed later. Should work just fine. Should.......

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