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You guys no how this goes. Well I recently let go of a few only to have a few more take there place. Well I tried guess there's no hope. My grandson even approves one of them.

Well, I've been so excited about this project that I need to share it. Can't tell my son though-this is going to be his Christmas present this year. He absolutely loves driving the C125 that I got from @oldredrider. I picked this ugly beast up for $50 at the auction in Charlottesville. I only wanted the deck from it. Got the idea to fix it up for Emory for Christmas. Best part is he thinks I'm doing it for me. Can't wait till Christmas morning for him to find out it's his. This is going to get the Vanguard I picked up last week. Got several ideas to make it just his. I'll share more later as I go. I do need to get in touch with @Vinylguy to get him to do a set of his custom decals for it. I'm going to need a little help hooking up the Vanguard. It's got one wire coming from under the tinwork and I'm not sure what I'll need. I'm thinking it will need a regulator, solenoid, and switch, but which do I use? Look at him in the last picture-no idea it is his! Oh well, that's enough for now!

Craig's video sums up the update. Still have a lot of work to finish it like turning brakes & hydraulic pump and reservoir. Not sure how much I'll be able to work on it this spring. Depends on my potential relocation. Pretty happy with it. Kyle @fast88pu got the predator hooked up for me a few weeks ago. Shout out to him for his assistance!

Just recently, spied this Horse hauling the male.

Stevebo's manual, and electric start '56 Ride-Away Seniors.

I have a several Tecumseh engines in service and they run great. They are substantially different from Kohlers specially in the ease of maintenance. I think that is the cause why most people don’t like them, because most of them are not running correctly due to the lack of proper servicing. Carburaters also require slightly different maintenance. Old Kohlers are tanks and they will run well even under the most adverse conditions where a Tecumseh is a bit more sensitive to the same conditions.

Only needs about twelve more of 'em to equal that old Chevy.

Let's bring this back out of hibernation. Rolled her out today and redid the steering rack mount and made it simpler and cleaner than the bracket I had made earlier. Going to redo the way the floor is so I have been changing around a couple of things. Made my battery box and trimmed up the lower front hood hinge to clear it. Also made a L shaped bracket to weld to the firewall frame for support and the remote oil filter mount should bolt up there. Small steps....... I mean I have only started over twice and been working on it for 3 years now

Not so sure it's original - seems to show signs of being on another machine. Seems ok, has compression and is free. Haven't tried to start it, will probably save it for another project. I hope so. Just hope he doesn't catch on. Gonna get a set of carbon fiber decals from Terry and have him put Emory on the seat pan decal instead of Wheel Horse. Gonna wait till after Emory goes to sleep Christmas Eve to put that on.

Happy Birthday @Wheelhorsestory, we are all glad you were born!

Yup, Coyote and now Road Runner. Maybe that Briggs will let it live up to its name. No idea what model this is. The serial number is rubbed off the plate, decals telling are missing, and the 10hp Kohler seems to be a replacement. Think I'll just label it a C165 since it will be running the 16hp vanguard. Went down and tore off the tin work and engine. Kind of naked now. Emory is pooped! Look at that left spindle - bet someone took a mighty rough ride to do that!

traded my bucket truck straight across for an 81 f250 and an 8n Ford tractor...pretty excited about the deal

Let's review: 1 Chevrolet for 2 Fords. Sounds about right to me!

I have a hydraulic steering cylinder for an outboard and a power steering valve but I decided to keep it this way. It steers pretty easy anyways. Changed the name also because I had a decal made for the hood.

There is check valve's in the fuel pump small rubber discs with a spring. Maybe something has gotten stuck under one of them and not letting it close

Sold a wheel Horse 42 inch sickle bar mower and traded for cash and this older 42 inch sickle bar mower painted yellow. I think this was used by a state or local government for mowing as it has two distinct features not present on other original Wheel Horse Sickle Bar mowers. The lift piece is a chain attached to a welded bar on the frame not present on original mowers. Also the cover for idlers in frame is heavier steel plate welded on to frame with no front cover ( where Wheel Horse head decal would go on originals) . I am going to redo this .

Had all three out today, hopefully the c160 is going to a new home tomorrow.

"Road Runner"

There will (or should be) be a grease zerk on top of all three spindles. The middle spindle has a tendency to rub on the lift rod on a lot of decks, it may have worn off the zerk. There is also a zerk on the base of the shaft that goes to the steering wheel around the geared block. It's sometimes caked in grease and difficult to find but it's there. You can find it referenced on page 22-23 of the owners manuals.

The center spindle zerk may be worn off. The tractor deck lift will hit it and wear it off. I remove my center zerk sand replace it with a fine tread set screw. The only time you can grease it is when the deck is removed.

Won't be long before he grows into that one , Tom..

Just recently, I have gone to the electric fuel pumps. Unbelievable how much it improves starting times. Makes it so much easier on the battery and starter.

The correct filter would be a NAPA 1410. Do not use an automotive oil filter.

Rubber selection is spot on Aldon.

If you were to hang a hydraulic pump on the engine you could make that a Power Rack and Pinion.

I have a 522xi w loader. You're going in the right direction. I wish I'd waited for a nice used SCUT instead of settling on this. I use it at the vacation home so it sees limited use. I can't count the number of times I've had to pull it out of a 6" deep hole. It works ok but nothing like a 4x4. It still beats a wheelbarrow!!!

Sounds like a safety switch. I'm not familiar with the 417-A, but if there is a safety interlock switch on the pedal, it may be slow to close, causing the start circuit to be OPEN, and the Clutch Pedal light to flash.

Thanks for the link Craig. I have the same issue with Elvis.

I just fixed up a Techy OHV 18 for a friend it was in one of the kit wheel dozers from the 1970s. Hadn't run in years. Did have to replace the flywheel as all the magnets inside had broken free. No worse price or availability wise than ones for Kohlers. Had to replace the ignition module $125 for a used one. Anyone priced the Kohler breakerless parts lately??

Link to eBay allowed since a direct answer to question. (nylyon)

It will be whatever Emory wants it to be! Cool project.

Something to keep in mind. An engine can run real nice but lack power if the exhaust is restricted. Had one that I thought was carburetor icing. Same symptom. Let it sit a minute, restart and good for a while. What happened was an internal baffle disintegrated inside the muffler and it would move around until it covered the exhaust outlet. Exhaust pressure would hold it there reducing performance. Shut it off and the baffle would fall away from the outlet. Power restored after a restart. Tapping the muffler with a rubber mallet one could hear the loose baffle. Garry

It's hard to stop half way through the process, and go back. Keep going forward, continue using the same process you used on the hood. Then cut and buff the original paint I see lurking there under that patina/greasey hood. That tractors original paint will easily glow again, if you just keep on going.

My experiences with tekys are if they run good they are great but ive not had much luck bringing them back from the dead.

Took my little 400 out for a ride today.

Hi guys, picked up new wheel horse 1055 yesterday as you can see it’s a pulling machine! All origanal except for starter wiring and some fuel hoses. Bought new plug, and new fuel filter cause the gas tank was full of crap. Little 10 Horse will have you in a wheelie in no time with that straight pipe adding lots of power. Had three of my wheel Horses at waters farm days in Sutton Mass (anyone in the area should come) left them for the night took this one home cause it wasn’t running right but got it to run like a top in no time. Very excited to pull with it tomorrow, will update you guys. And one more thing, the throttle only goes out about one cm. and I can’t figure out why I will look into it more though. Will get some better pics too

Various ideas were tried out for the seat using bits and pieces lying around and then discarded. A visit to a local upholstery shop with measurements resulted in a lottery win quote. Back to head scratching mode. I had already spent hours looking for something suitable on the internet without luck, trying various search word combinations. Then I spotted some cheap-ish scooter ( Lambretta / Vespa ) back rests. Not exactly what I wanted but worth a try. A pair were bought and after initial, not sure thoughts, the end result was better than expected. The fill in piece behind the seat cushion, made from plastic, still needs finishing off with padding. The first mock up from ply. The alloy frame, ex green house, just cleared the top of the gearbox. Fixing brackets were bolted on. Sheet steel was bent up for the base and back rest. There were two short threaded studs already fitted which made mounting easy. A length of U shaped trim finished off the steel plate and a similar section was fitted to the fuel tank. I finally managed to get my Great grandson Henry to try the tractor for size. Even though he is only 7 : 1/2 months he loved it. Mummy said she had never seen him so excited, squealing and swinging the steering wheel. We had to hold him though as mummy refused to let me cable tie him on.

You can check fire by rolling the motor over and using your tongue! I remember working on a ladies car once. Opened the hood and dog food came flying out from the hole on the inside of the hood. Air cleaner box was full of Gravy Train. one of the guys in the shop had a truck with an electric carb heater base. Wouldn't start one day. Heating element cooked a bunch of cat food and melted enough to form a solid mass.

I did fire the K482 just once with straight pipes - sounded like a cannon on rapid fire at idle...lol . Here it is finished prior to painting... Sarge

Hi all. I have been a member here for a few years but have just been in hiding. Until now. I have recently started a build on MoM and have been urged, pushed, threatened by Chris, Mr Showman to post on Red Square too. So here goes. As some will already know, the Showman and I have been clearing a friend's land of his large collection of various garden tractors, horticultural machinery, workshop equipment and whatever else you can think of. Nearly 2 :1/2 years later the end is in sight. As friend John is having to sell up and move soon due to ill health, my Roper tractor which was stored on his land has now moved on to a new home. As I have very little room at home to work and store in, mainly a single car size garage which is already half full of stuff, thoughts turned to something small to build which could be transported in the back of my Meriva car. Small enough to fit in the car, but hopefully big enough to ride on, but if not towing a trailer which I can sit on and operate the tractor by remote steering etc. Various options were looked at, thought about and discarded due to too many compound curves etc. Then, after studying photo's of the D-series Wheel Horse which has very few awkward curves a plot was hatched. During the clear out lots of "might be handy one day" bits and pieces were kept. One of the few tractors which remained, unloved and unwanted, was this Bolens ride on mower. It was eventually stripped of useful parts, gearbox, axle / diff assembly, wheels and various other bits before the remains were left to be dumped much later. Also found among the junk in John's barn was the bottom end of a small engine which was later found to be a 65cc BSA 4 stroke. After further hunting by the Showman other parts were found in various locations in the barn loft. Enough parts to build a complete engine with spares left over. Engine just roughly assembled in this photo. John never stored related parts together and in one place. We think this was his anti theft device. Find a few parts, no good without the others, so leave alone. Appears to have worked as we have found on various occasions. Tri rib tires Chris. After looking up the measurements of the full size D-series Wheel Horse, a half size model worked out at approx 38" long, 22.5" wide and 23" tall. I did not intend building a 100% dead scale model, just something which looked right. If all the main measurements were close to half size and the main components looked compatible with each other, then Some parts, for various reasons, were altered slightly in size without being too obvious. First, a suitable building bench was required. I have one along one wall in my garage but too narrow and my creaky knees object to crawling around on the floor.. A tool trolley, unearthed from John's workshop, was pressed into service. The wheels moved outwards to give more stability, a mid shelf added which was boxed in on three sides, and a thick sheet of chipboard on top. Not shown on these photo's. The Bolens bits were cleaned up and placed onto some box section which would be used for the main part of the chassis, Due to the width of the gearbox, the rear end of the chassis had to be a lot wider than scale. This area was one of the main problems of the build, trying to keep the gearbox far enough back without touching the differential which revolves with the attached sprocket, plus keeping it and the surrounding frame within the width of the fenders and the upper sections of the footrests. Hours and hours of head scratching, trying different positions etc resulted in "This might work". When fitted to the Bolens, the gearbox input shaft pointed down. It was hoped by mounting with the shaft horizontal a short prop shaft could be used. This was found to be a no go due to the height difference of the engine crankshaft and gearbox shaft. The centrifugal clutch assembly also left very little room between the engine and box. The next stage was to work out a mount for the gearbox. Bits of angle were pop rivited or self tappered to the frames and lots more head scratching followed. The long lengths of box section had been cut down at this stage as they would have been too wide further forward. The next photo's show these in the correct, sort of, position with the engine roughly mounted to see how things line up. The axle bearings from the Bolens were used plus the front axle mounting bracket which was hack sawed from the frame, cut in two, excess removed, slotted and drilled to take the bearings. The extra holes were for possible height adjustment at a later date. Easier to do now than later. These were pop riveted to the box section ready for welding later. The front axle was then given a lot of thought. The full size is a cast, tapered in two directions, webbed unit. Something simpler was needed. A piece of thick walled 1" square was used with tube king pin mounts. A test piece was cut to gauge the angle required, followed by marking, cutting, bending, filing and drilling the main components. Small infill pieces were inserted to give the weld something to bite on. The axle mount was made up of 3/16" plate fastened to chassis box section cross members, with 1/2" bore bushes. The pivot is an old Austin 7 king pin. All a bit on the beefy side but just materials to hand. I should say that ALMOST all the materials used in the entire build were saved during the clear out at John's. Also, as I do not have proper machining facility's, most of the work was done by hand. Hand drill, hack saw, jig saw, files etc. I do have a small Unimat 3 model makers lathe which was used for some of the lighter machining jobs. Also an old Drummond round bed which is in need of work and a chuck adapter. Guess where this came from. I also adapted an old Picador drill press to take a larger hand drill. This wasn't too satisfactory, side play and too fast for the larger drill bits. These were more suitable for wood, not metal. Photo's later. The next few photo's show the chassis and axle mounted on a board ready for welding. The nails were just to hold parts in place before clamping and weighing down. The rear axle mounting plates drop into slots in the board. The two dark colored angles are temporary and just to help keep things square. A few photo's of a few welded up bits. The welds on the rear end of the chassis were nice and neat. No photo's of this. The welder decided to be naughty at the front. Wire feed kept jamming until speeded up which resulted in heavy welds. Some ground or filed down and others left as will not be seen. The used Austin 7 king pin for the axle pivot seen in the third photo. A bit rusty but good enough to use after a clean up. The chassis was cut away to allow for more axle swing. The rear wheel adapter hubs were made up from 2" thick walled tube and round plates into which the tube was welded. The plates already had bores of near enough the correct size. The cut to length tubes, after a lot of head scratching and measuring to make sure the holes would be in the correct place, were drilled 5/16" using a standard center drill for the first hole. I was going to use this as a guide for a 5/16" drill to spot the lower hole, followed by gradually opening up with other drills, but found a long series 5/16" center drill which did the job in one go. This also did away with numerous height adjustments on my not very accurate drill press conversion. The plates were drilled after marking out using a card template which was cut to just fit into the wheel dish and over it's hub. 4 holes were also drilled through the wheels using the same template. This ensured that all holes lined up. Even though my drill conversion was a bit of a blacksmith job, after drilling the axle shaft I found that it and the hubs lined up almost perfectly.

Can't argue with the grandkids... they are always right!

It looks and sounds so good!

These fuel pumps actually have two check valves and most of them do not seal tight enough to keep the fuel from leaking back to the tank. This was not a problem when the tanks were above the fuel pump, but when they were put under the seat, the fuel drains back and the pump looses its prime. It takes a lot of cranking to purge the pump of air and to reprime itself. If you keep the tank over half full, the pump should be covered and not loose its prime. Another solution, if you don't want to add an electric pump, is to add a marine primer bulb. https://www.amazon.com/Ninth-City-Rubber-Transfer-Gasoline-Accessories/dp/B0148G078G/ref=sr_1_16/146-9118746-0112145?ie=UTF8&qid=1508107203&sr=8-16&keywords=fuel+primer+bulb

Agreed, that little stumble does sound like it's in the points.

you may try rubbing it down with sum motor oil or wd40 it may bring the color back.

Why not put in new seals?

Why...once wasn't good enough?

I use a U1 battery in all of my Wheel Horses U1R has the negative terminal on the right as shown below. U1L is just the opposite.

Awesome work sir!

Let's try this one again. C-81