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I live in what could be refereed to as a desert! You just don't generally see any listed for sale within a hundred miles. Low and behold I picked up a 418 C on that was listed as having a bad transmission only four miles from my house. Always wanted a Kohler twin and here I was picking one up in my own back yard. When I picked it up Tuesday I asked about the symptoms and as he described it I told him it was probably just a bad idler that had eaten the belt. I offered to let him back out of the deal but he didn't want to. This morning I had a chance to check it out and sure enough that is what had happened. Last spring I bought a parts tractor from Kyle @fast88pu and as luck would have it the belt and idler from it were in great shape so I didn't even have to leave the shop to pick up parts. The 418 has a great running twin, wheel weights, rear axle bracket for a snow plow, a good 48" SD deck and now I know it also has a good strong Eaton 1100, not too bad for $ 225. The paint and wiring are atrocious, but that will get taken care of in due time.

Cleaned up another old Simpsom loader laying around and mounted it on a 520H . I think it came out looking good. I have had at least 6 of these Simpson loader and I think they are great. all new fittings and hoses and stripped to bare metal, and painted, 125 lbs. of rear wts on each wheel, need to clean up bucket yet. It lift at least 7 ft. Love the 520's for loader tractors, easy steering and plenty of power.

What started out as a simple task of moving my 6-1/2' x 12' utility trailer to unload it's contents back into the Shed Repair Project after building a new floor turned out to be a really bad day . I figured the weight of the trailer and it's load was probably around 2,500lbs or more and the big D-180 should be able to handle it . Used the 3pt hitch and an adapter to lift the trailer tongue and off I went...until I got to the end of the north drive and the pump coupling on the hydro failed - badly . In hindsight - the trailer probably weighed closer to 4,000lbs the way it felt behind the truck ... Now , the trailer had to be taken off the tractor and put on it's jack ....which didn't work out too well loaded that heavily . Since the trailer was built with 2x3 angle iron on the tongue it decided to fold itself into a pretzel - despite the wheels being blocked tight so it couldn't move . It fell over and I had to use the HI-Lift to get it off the ground . The sight of the trailer falling over in the rear view camera on the Dodge is still well embedded in my memory - I knew that was going to be another large project . The coupling had an earlier repair from last winter's failure - so a pto pin was driven through the hole to get it out back to my work area to be fixed later . It made the short trip , but just barely and the tow valve was frozen tightly . As it turned out , the damage to the D was a much bigger issue..and cost 3 times as much in total . The pic doesn't do the damage any justice - that entire tongue was bent badly - Sand blasted , new tongue built and waiting for paint - Painted , as it sits now awaiting the lights , wiring and re-install the floor decking . All the while - got more work done on the D's pump problem . Found a great used pump , as well as a spare coupling in good shape . After a lot of machine work ($$$) we came up with a solution and everything was back together... After all this I found that both the original mufflers were completely shot and falling apart - so another project ... Bought a pair of 180* mandrel bends , two cone transitions and a pair of @jimkemp 8" mufflers (very nice, btw) . Fabricated the flanges for the engine's exhaust ports , as well as the pipes for the stacks - Spent a lot of time rolling the engine over on the starter to slowly prime the pump back up and finally , after several months - fired Big Ugly to test the exhaust before painting the stacks . No leaks from the hydro thanks to some new o-rings and backer rings from @pfrederi on the hydro manifold , that was a big relief . A bit shocked at the sound of the big opposed twin - somewhat like a Harley running on the choke or something - but overall not obnoxious or too loud .... D180 startup.mp4 If you don't want to wait for the MP4 to load - here's the YouTube link - I don't think the camera's microphone will show the sound too well , but so far I like it . Took a ride around the block , nice having this beast back up and running , finally . Now to finish that dumb trailer....pretty much wasted nearly the whole summer getting all of this done plus the hours at work . I'm about ready for a break but need to get ready for winter . Sarge

I’m in the midst of restoring a GT14 to her formal glory. And I keep reading that the 14 had her own set of attachments. So far the only attachment I have seen so far is the tiller. Can someone post some pictures of the other attachments such as a snow blower. Here are a few pictures of my restoration:

Hi everyone,I made a pair of skid shoes or feet or what ever they are called out of a piece of pipe and other metal. Here is the result.

The one is a 1938 model H and the other 3 are 1950 and 1951 model 5S pull starts. Not sure what I'm gonna do with them but that will come in due time I suppose.      

Might be handy for some smaller custom mods.

Because Don they figured if you were going to run an eight speed you were he man enough to run a manual lift!

Richard,,,,,thats battin a winner out of the park!!!!!!!! Maybe this will be your ride next June ,at the BIG SHOW......... I think while we are discussing Beverages, a Coffee Cup maybe ,WheelHorse head,,,,,,,,and the YEAR STAMPED ON IT !!!!!!!!!! 2018 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe all Black or Cotton White,, BIG SHOW SIPPIE CUP !!!!!! frequency of refills optional

I was in Rural King today in Terre Haute and located some pulleys that I had not seen in there before. 2 inch x 3/8 idler pulley and 2 1/2 x 3/4 drive pulley for RJ's. The pulleys are shown in photos listed as Phoneix Pulleys and you may be able to find in another store in your part of the country!

I use a 320 grit ball hone. I use whatever oil I have available. You are only cutting for about 45 seconds at 500 to 1200 RPM, and constantly moving the tool up and down.

Making the other fellow feel like he is the greater man. I know human nature is to sometimes be critical of the other fellow if we assume that he meant this of that without having all the facts, or without knowing his intent motivate or objective. It is easy to do. I have done it. Then basing off of an assumption that the other fellow is wrong and that he just could not possibly have simply no ill intent underling what he stated. So we quickly begin to criticize. Then someone else chimes in and jumps on the bandwagon an ups the ante further endeavoring to destroy his character distancing him from the group. Remember, if someone draws a "little circle" and draws you out... Just draw a bigger circle and draw them right back in. It takes a greater man to make the other fellow feel like he is the greater man.

And here it is, proven to work now. Wells #PS-122 http://www.wellsve.com/showall_ds_oil.php that NLA Toro oil pressure switch for the Onan engine? Or the Onan part that’s $159.00? Scratch that. This piece here ^^^ I bought at my local O’Riellys for $5.73. Yes, it’s a three terminal switch, not two like the factor, but... it works. Terminals 1 and 3 are tied together and work when oil pressure is applied. They disconnect when there is no pressure. Terminal 2 grounds when there is no pressure and disconnects when there is pressure. You have to wire a new ground wire from either terminal 1 or 3 and find a suitable ground for that, and then connect the black wire from the - of your hour meter to the either terminal 1 or 3, whichever you didn’t already use. Terminal 2 gets connected to your idiot light for the “no pressure” indicator. I can tell you that it all works as it should. Idiot light works and goes off when running and now my hour meter functions too. Very happy!

I hope to have the 953 from Ed finished by then and bring it. Of course if that isn't the case I have a few more 953s to pick from. The 418 is just going to be a worker for now.

Easier still, is to JB weld the holes closed... sand it smooth, and just run a tube in 'em.

Good advice on doing it over a garbage can or be prepared to have little nibbler pieces stuck in your shoes!!!

Great Buy Richard, now i know who rubbed off on me for Stealing them

The belts are listed on this page. Click on the picture or what little you can see of it. Garry

My first was a 73 8 hp and did the same thing. The belt guard tabs were not set at the proper clearance at the drive pulley. I don't remember the exact measurements but after I adjusted the tabs it would only rear up if I popped the clutch with a plow on the back.

It is a lot of work but is doable.

I have used a pneumatic nibbler for years, works great. Best advice I can give is to do your cutting over the trash can or be prepared to pick up the thousands of little nibbles on the floor; what a mess.

I have had no problem using only the 320. Remember, all you are doing is breaking the glaze, not taking out major scratches or grooves. A new set of rings won't seat into a smoothe, shiny bore.

You HAVE had a fun time with the "Big D" I dearly love them but when one breaks it can be a handful! Your exhaust is similar to what I have done to my 180 & 200. I used a muffler listed as from "Cub Cadet" they are very reasonable and with the throttle at speed the sound sends cold chills down my spine I love it!

that euro vendor is me.... restorationdecals.co.uk

I take it to mean: When there is a difference of opinion, rather than 'dig in' and ignore him or it . . . just broaden our thinking -- considering many more factors = bigger circle of input, and to not criticize their suggestion but to try and build on and respect it . . . even if it is wrong. Not many people are always right 100% of the time, if we "gang up" on one person when they may be wrong, we might eliminate any future input or cooperation, or worse yet, create an anti-social or destructive person like we're seeing more of in the news lately. just my 2¢, Glen

Ya know Red Hank might be on to something here with the belt guard/tab issue...do you have a belt finger that looks like this ?

Wow great pic! I see @Ed Kennell on the left, @elcamino/wheelhorse in the middle and @roadapples on the right!

Don't cut anything over your bed! Those little half moon nibbles are sharp! Seriously, be careful cleaning up the leavings. Great tool though!

I kept eyeing that one Richard. I finally decided to pull the trigger the other afternoon and saw it was gone. Kind of figured you might be the seller. Now I'm glad you got it! I was drooling after that twin and was going to put another project. I'm glad you got it. Now, I just want to go for a ride sometime!

Backing up the hole with copper and then MIG welding is the way to go, The weld will not adhere to the copper and you can make several side by side beads to fill large holes.

Someone please tell me why the 520-8 didn't come with electric lift?

Mice are unpredictable little buggers. I've had them leave droppings ON the dryer sheets left to keep them out. @&! $#&

Don't rule out salvaging them. I recall a post on here where someone sand blasted a set, welded up the holes and filled the pits in the bead seal area with JB Weld. I've done some pit filling on a mower deck with JB Weld and a belt sander smoothed it nicely.. Good Luck !

Its made form 1/8" x 3/4" flat stock. 22-1/4" long. Top of the V is 16" across... bottom flat-ish spot is about 3/4". Makes each side about 10-3/4".

Chris, what fender brace are you referring to? I was thinking the 701 just used the two fenders bolted to the tool box.

C-161 = Sunstrand hydro Steve

With ABSOLUTE amazement.... I was working on the exact same starter today... A briggs. Talk about coincidence... Found o9ut that you can flip the 783 to put the worn side in.. I hasve 3 or 4 of these in my shop... Can you tell me the model number of this starter??? no numbers on it at all.

Thanks for the pictures. I think that I will go with the tri ribs. I will look at the deestones and compare the ratings and looks. Thanks. Also, I cant post pictures because I do not have a phone or camera.

Sadly that one statement sounds bad - If it has come undone internally it could very well have pushed the point rod out and not let it return. Remove both plugs and stick a soda straw - or similar - in the cyl and turn it over by hand and see if both pistons are still moving.

Weird but i think the fluid drain back / burping may have been it. Driveway is at a slant and rear was lower.. I lifted seat to pull dipstick only to see fluid near top so It seems like it was spilling out from there. I started it, raised deck, drove it over to other driveway, parked sidways and re-checked dipstick.. Now the oil is not visible inside the tube. Thanks a lot brothers!

Running 3 ribs on my 702, and also noted they pushed/floated climbing hills. Front weights helped with that. I'd also suggest looking at the Deestones. Much less expensive, and they look about the same as Firestones. These are the narrow version for skinny rims.

I would go with the tri's based on what you said you will be using it for. They would pair up for a better look if you arte using ags on the back. I have a pair of Firestones on the front of one of my tractors and the only complaint is they (one side anyway) kept losing air through the rim bead. Might have been due to rim issues though. Couple of buddies tractors that have the Firestone reported cracking of the tire side wall after only a few years. May or may not be an issue with mine or yours if you get them but time will tell. I would also take a look at some Deestones and other brands, some have more of a flat appearance across the thread for a flatter look. The firestones do have a pronounced center rib for sure. Firestones are the pricier one of the bunch but I think we are paying for the name more than anything else. My man @Rp.wh just put a set of really affordable Dee tris on the front of a tractor and they don't look half bad. Keep in mind most V's are required to be tubed. Whatever you decide good luck and These are the Firestones

Picked up a nice 520-8 tonight! Better pictures to follow. Is going to be my lawn mowing machine.

Start a thread in other brands Jeff and I'm sure the fellas will be along to help out. Be ready to have model nos & pics of what you might be working on. Good luck.

Saw a Wheel Horse on that was in Franklin NC, couldn't believe it! 418 C with a transmission problem, I made an offer and the deal was done. When I picked it up the seller described the event that led up to the transmission stopping, Sounds to me like the belt idler gave up the ghost and ate the belt. Told him that and offer to let him out of the deal, but he said his wife had told him to "Get rid of it". It isn't a buty queen, but has a good running Kohler twin, wheel weights and i think the Eaton is probably good too. I will let you know in a couple of days.

I have both on different tractors and love them. Both make the tractors steer very easily. Some have said the tri ribs are hard on their yard but I have never had an issue with them. The Vreds have a beefier look to them.

I have used this with good results, clean and wire brush the deck and spray it on.

Hope you feel better soon Howard!

Just for the road.............I do come peek,,,,,and check in now and again....... I'm Trying fo figure out why I'm out of gas,,,i have always enjoyed hitting the road running,,,,,,,and this is not quality of life at the moment,,!!!!! ,,I talk to Old Man Red Rider,,,,,and Road Apples,,,,,,,both ,,,,are solid pals....We talk weekly even if its to keep in touch.... for now back to bed,,,,When I'm back on my game,,,,,it will take more than a base ball bad mitton to keep returns coming,,,, pals N Red Tractors in VA,