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I really needs to get me another headlight matey's, yar I do. Aarrrrr

At least that's what I'm calling it til I get time to paint the chassis. It's a '66 106 with a '72 6 H.P. Tecumseh H60. Runs strong. Came with the original deck also. It was heading to the scrap yard a few months ago........ oh hell no!

Well my new block finally arrived. Broke the old one trying to re tap the grease cert that PO busted out with the lift arm hitting against it. New one is steel and not die cast like the original. I hope it doesnt make a difference. I also left it as a full block and not stepped down as original cause as you can see there isn't really very much meat there where it broke. I will try it and see what happens, heck it didn't cost me anything to have it made due to my brother. Lol! Has anyone else have to re-make one?

Just put an eye patch over that missing light, and she's good to go.

I had a nice set of 4 tires off a donor tractor. The fronts went on my work horse project, that tractor has the wide 8.5" wheels and new rubber so I had a spare set of rears. Decided to leave the chains on my 8.50" Firestone Terragrips and swap the 10.5" turf-savers on for the summer, I did put the cast iron back on. Just a shot of the difference. Barely notice in the picture but can tell in person It's the picture. I didn't take it straight on

Mastiffman, Use the following: Onan Coil Test Procedure IGNITION COIL To test primary and secondary windings within the ignition coil first make sure the ignition power is off and coil is at room temperature of 70°F (21 "C). 1. Use a Simpson 260 VOM or equivalent. 2. Place a black lead on negative (-) coil terminal and red lead to positive (+) coil terminal. Primary resistance should read between 2.90-3.60 ohms. 3. Change resistance setting on ohmmeter. Place ohmmeter leads inside of spark plug cable holes (Figure 3). Secondary resistance should read between 14,500 - 19,800 ohms. 4. If either of the above resistances are not within specifications, replace the coil. Hope this helps............................Gary

EMT JOE,,,,,,,,,,,,,i just realized,,,,,,,I know everyone in the Big Picture,,,,,,,, Now,,,,i know they all appear to all look like adults,,,,,where,,,in fact,,,,,,,your going to think They are a pack of 7th graders on a playground,,,,,,Most of them will be running,,,,jumping,,,not watching where they are going,,,,it seems more like the county Fair,,,,,,,,and yes,,,,,,alot of them will be loose on running tractors without parent supervision,,,,,,,They will even be wearing I,D,badges around their neck..................................I wouldn't want it any other way...... Howard 857 Horse in Va

Maybe he needs a mascot.

Hi Fellas... Well it's a fix for now. I replaced the hose with the one WheelHorseMan1000 made for me. I was going to replace the other hose as well since I was in there. However, there is a small issue that will need to be dealt with. The threaded opening where one attaches the hose to the pump is countersunk. The wrench size for the original hose is 16mm. I found that odd, but it was. And the new uses are 11/16. So, the countersink on the pump is not big enough to let the hose go all the way in. I realized as I was removing it and just tightened it back up again. I think the fix wouldn't be to bad if you have a drill press to make that pump countersink a little wider. There is an o-ring on the end of the hose that needs to seal. It looks like I was able to do that but you can see I had to tighten so much the it scraped the countersink edges. It's all buttoned up and so far no leaks. 🤞🏻

Being splash lubricated it is preferable to mow up and down on steep slope.

And it's not even "talk like a pirate" day.

I bet Garry can find the manual for this deck. 36" TD (top discharge)

hey farmer , I catch fish that look like that ,....

Naw... I like ole one eye.

Good to know - I forgot that gt pumps also have the counter sunken holes this is what I do for the pumps with the #5 ends on the pump (see picture) and had no issues. @BigRedGrizzly if you would like I will send you out another set with the correction ( because it was my fault that I forgot)

Thanks for the update. Just thinking out loud but fully tearing it down to machine the housing sounds like a real PITA. Maybe it would be easier to dremel grind the edges of the fitting so that it clears the countersunk edge. A potential work around to a complete disassembly. Adding Lowell, as a heads up. @wheelhorseman1000

'The operators seat' won't be in tonight's instalment, (getting a little ahead of myself) instead we look at fuel tank, battery and linking the subframe to the tractor frame. with the the new extended tractor frame bolted up to drive axle, steering laid in and working, engine back on, its fuel tank time. The tractor had a good one so I wanted to use it, couple of issues here however. 1/ It could not be mounted square on the frame because the fuel line would be directly inline with the steering rod underneath. 2/ It had to be offset on the frame to allow clearance for the transmission belt to pass. Luckily, by moving it a few cm's to the right both problems were solved, the fuel line now passes between steering rod and right hand frame rail, and belt clearance is good. Standard size battery sits 'east west' on the frame where the cables can be hooked up as before. This picture shows the appropriate layout. I also planned to use the fuel tanks wire and spring to secure it. Also you can see the need to lengthen the steering wheel shaft. While on the bench and in this position it's time to take measurements to attach the subframe to the tractors frame. As the distance between the two frames was just short of 200mm my choice of steels was the same 200x50x5mm box as before. Two pieces cut with a nice angle to hopefully make it look less 'boxy'. I then welded caps on them ready to.... ....show them up between the two frames. So remember the measurement was less than 200mm? I cut two slots into these two cross members to allow the subframe to come up. The slots effectively allowing the tractor frame to fit down in the cross members. Four small pieces of angle were clamped to the tractor frame drilled and bolted through. Then the subframe lifted up trapping the cross members into the frame above, where I could weld the angle pieces to the cross members. The excess length of the subframe was cut off, and the ends capped. Leaving me with this as the 'finished product'. Remove four bolts and the two frame can be parted. The picture probably explains what I mean clearer!! Anywho it's time for me hot chocolate.

Hi all, new to the forum! Long time wheel horse owner and collector. Just realized tonight that y'all are here. When and where is the big show? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Joe

Yes it is Steve when going along the hill you have to shift your weight up the hill on the fender for stability. Easier by the way when younger than older. Bob

You could also go on an angle and split the baby. I usually alternate patterns to avoid wheel ruts...

I agree with Paul. You do not really need that plug. You could probably fiber glass that hole and be OK. Make a dip stick to put through one of those bolt holes with a scratch to know where the level should be. I think you are going to want to take this trans apart any way...just because it would be easier to work on that hole. Is my backyard mechanic showing??

A combination of spray carb cleaner followed by non-chlorinated brake cleaner does a good job of getting oil out of the casting pores.

There isn't much if any stress on that point. Thread in a pipe plug degrease the area build a form with duct tape and fill it with JB Weld They have a putty version that should not flow into the case.

I am familiar with the B series tractors but don't know about this one photo'd. Any input ?

Not sure I would have worded it quite that way Craig.. I'll rephrase it, the operators seat.

Thank you to everyone who has responded! And thank you all for the information, i feel more welcome here than I do at home! I hope to meet some of you at the big show! ~ Thanks again, Joe

You're really stuck... on his butt, huh Farmer?

It's a 1973 model. Essentially a B-80 but with smaller rear wheels. Mike....

You may have seen my Wheel Horse Farm Toy Sets in the archives. I have had an Ebay search going on for several years to find the matching one year only, #7000 1964 Nylint Lawn and Garden Service Toy Set Truck and Trailer. Well it finally paid off! I only had to outbid one Nylint Toy Collector, not a Wheel Horse Collector thankfully! So I got it for $150.00 give or take a few bucks. I have 3 complete sets of the 1961 Wheel Horse Toy Sets from Auburn, so I put one complete set of toys in with the truck and trailer to make a very nice set! Schwing! The tractor is a 1961 Model #551. Nice amount of details on these little tractors, check out the drive belt guard, mower deck wheels and recoil starter! 2 of the toys sets have their original plastic bag that they came in! I had another set of toys but I gave it to my WH collecting buddy Packrat!.....KJ

Got my 1st wheel horse tractor for free ! It's a work horse 1848 & runs & looks good ! Trying to find a manual for it !

I just read a few months back that the Government wants to up the gas to 15% ethanol. And small engine manufacturer are saying that will hurt the small engines to run on that much ethanol and it will destroy gaskets and seals and small engines. Way to go Uncle Sam . I am a Firm believer in sea foam . I buy it by the gal at auto store it's cheaper by the gallon. Works great on crud in gas system.

I was just wondering if it was better for the motor mowing a bank one way over the other way.A little late to ask this question after mowing both ways 30 plus years with two tractors.First one 1989 414-8 with engine M14s, spec.# 601540, ser.# 19xx110353, 48" SD the other a 1979 c-101 enginek241as, spec# 46766d, ser.#9708719 , 42" SD. Motor oil gets changed every 25 hours with Rotella HD 30.Just wondered what the motor guys and gals think. Bank is about 60 feet long and just 12 to15 feet up and down.Thanks for your opinions. I guess in a way I have already proven that it really doesn't matter, no motor problems over the years. It is more stable up and down the hill, tires are loaded with fluid, no problem with traction. Thanks all,( It's amazing what you think about when you have spare time).

It is probably safer to go up and down also. Some of that looks a little steep.

That may be the plan, eventually. But first I need another horse, like you guys say you can never have just one. Just too handy to be without for very long. I am hopeful of getting a moldboard plow in time for getting the garden in this year.

I don't think you need the plug to be usable. Unless you a leaking a whole lot of oil if you drain it and put 2 qts in ever year or so through the gear shift hole or one of the bolts on top you wouldn't have any issues. Just thought this would be easier than taking it somewhere to have it brazed.

Well, we have two votes for JB Weld; the only thing I would add is to wrap the threads with Teflon tape and hope the plug will back out. I hope you don't need to check the transaxle every week, unless it is leaking a LOT!

As much as we love our it seems some people out there think they are gold plated. We tend to be reasonable on pricing with our fellow members to help keep our horses going. You could contact A-Z Tractor, one of the vendors on here, he is very good. aztractor255@gmail.com Good luck and keep us posted.

You might try to send a PM to @racinfool40 (Mike). He was selling and rebuilding transmissions. He is also on FaceBook with the Wheel Horse Junkies. He might have the case, the whole trans or maybe even the one side you need. The right hand side is #4160...left side #4161. Like was said...the 953, 1054 and 1054A use the same case part numbers. The 1057 and 1257 share the same type of transmission...ie...1 1/8" axles with a bevel gear differential, but the case part numbers are different. #6940 / #6941. This case may have the same bolt pattern though and maybe could just bolt on. All of the other transmissions have a different bolt pattern for mounting to the frame. Drilling new holes in the frame makes it possible to use any other transmission. I would bet that your case could be fixed...nickel weld or brazed by a good welding shop. It would be nice to see some pictures of what you have.

You could disassemble your transmission & have the hole welded. Then drill & tap a new hole for the plug. This would be more involved but it would be a way to save your cases.

Along these same lines, what do you guys use in the fuel for your pre-unleaded era engines? I've always heard that after the switch to unleaded fuel the manufacturers had to use valves or valve seats that were hardened because the leaded fuel was easier on them. Maybe that's just a bunch of nonsense though.

I was hoping that the bevel gears and longer axles were the main difference between the 4 speeds and they just used the same housing. Kind of figures though, since I had to grind off bolts to check the hydraulic fluid. Looks like I'm in for a long road to getting this to where I can use it. Someone recently posted an add on cl for a 1054 that looked kinda rough for $525. To me it seems kinda high for a donor machine, but I'm sort of new to wheel horse so I could be wrong. Thanks for the replies guys.

That was the vented deck option. They're quite popular, after a few years of use, they become vented. You will see them more readily available on MTD and AYP products, which become vented in just a few years. The decks from Wheel Horse, John Deere, Simplicity, Case, it takes a few more years for they become vented.

Garry

Ditto on getting the crank sealing surface polished clean. Sometimes the old seal will have worn a thin groove in the crank sealing surface. The seal can be installed/located deeper or shallower to avoid this area. It does not always need to be pressed in until it bottoms out. Use heavy wheel bearing grease on the seal lips, inside/outside before installing it. The Blue Snot boat axle wheel bearing grease works the best.

I have no room for gear drives Jay. So when you buy em for resale, ya gotta get em for cheap. I bid this one up to $350 and left it go at $375.

I use to like sending the "Boot" FAs for a bucket of steam. My buddy who was a deckie topside would send them for 1,000 feet of shoreline!

Don't sell yourself short. Dick and yourself may have one game left to play.

@***** to That is a unique screen name!

Welcome to the forum. Here is a start Garry