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More (time) in the shop!

That's beats a TimeX any day.... ! Just proves these old Kohlers can take a licking and keep on ticking too...

There were a couple things that needed attention on our 856, and before we knew it, it had gotten prettied up. Thanks to Glen Pettit and Vinylguy for their great products. Out of respect for the previous owner, hardware bits came from Grainger. The paint is Ace Hardware rattle can Regal Red and Ivory White for the wheels. Built for mow, not show, it’s enough to get the neighbors jealous. Ready for the grass to start growing. Before= www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/67501-hello-from-illinois/ Thanks, Chuck & Sally

He had to wear out the Kohler first that takes a long time if you keep oil in it. Your order may be delayed unless you supply the Kohler. If it's rebuildable It way take another 40 years.

Does the time change with engine RPM's ? At 1600 rpm does the hour hand point to 4 ?

Sent the block out to get punched .020 over and sandblasted. I did some minor port and polishing and cleaned up the heads. Some guys say to shave the lip off where the gasket goes to up the compression. I've talked to some guys I trust and they say these L head opposed need more airflow than compression so that wouldn't gain anything. Port/polish is the only easy gain I'm told.

You NEED one of these! http://www.tractorumbrellas.com/umbrellas/wh-lawn

I should look into that! That's for sure! I haven't given that much thought-- but I will think about it!

Planning on putting them in the your vendor store?

12 HP, we did it ourselves in the basement and the garage. Sally pointed out I could have done a much better job covering the floors and horizontal surfaces before painting. Even rattle cans have over spray - nice red patches on our gray floors and workbenches. It is a ten footer, good enough to mow but not so pretty that you'd be afraid to. From the neighbor's yard, it looks great. Our Jan and Feb were so warm, and March is continuing the warm trend so we expect to be mowing in a couple weeks. The tires are Kenda Super Turfs. We got a good deal from our local mower shop on tires and mounting. Over the summer, we'll need to fix up the plow blade and blower to match. Snowless winters are not the norm here. We have less into this one than buying a plastic Chinese cookie cutter mower from the big box store. We love the cool factor of a 60's tractor to go with our old vehicles. Thanks for the compliments, Chuck & Sally

Found these. Doubt you are going to find a "Repair" manual. If you are having trouble repairing something just start a thread about it here on RS and you will get answers, help or guidance.

Very nice work. Wayne

I know what those are, a wife's very large and heavy coat hanger.

Its beginning to seem that the intent is to see how much more I can fit into this little tractor. Now it has a serious tachometer.

Thanks AMC. It came out pretty slick I will admit! But I may be the only person on the planet to put that kind of shine on the business end of a plow blade. Ha!

My first Automatic in the stable, '76 C-120. Found her on a local CL ad, owner wanted to pretty it up someday but had inherited a JD & didn't have room for it. He said it ran great, needed new battery. Hooked a jumper box to it & she fired right up, no smoke, no ticks, no knocks. Tranny is strong & tight, 48 inch deck in great shape & 42 inch plow that looks like it was used once! $350.00 later she was on the trailer headed home. Here she is home next to the C-81 I got two weeks ago...

I came across this picture of a d200 when I was looking online and I was wondering if the scoop and back ho were a custom job or if they were accessorys? Either way though that is definitely the coolest D-200 that I have ever seen and probably ever will see.

My Dad was a Dealer from the late 60's to mid 80's. Lot's of family pictures with a Horse in them.

They were made like that. Ark loader an brantley backhoe

location is the main factor after what shape is it in,where I live 1500 is exactly what they want for that tractor,thats really not a crazy price if the hours are actually 260,i know most of us wouldn't pay that,i wouldn't but I have several running tractors,but if a person needed a good reliable garden tractor that's a good machine,ya it would be nice to get it cheaper,but how bad do you want or need it

Looks great, very unique. I like it. Glenn

Hello, I have this old wheel horse that i am thinking about selling or trading. The only issue is that i do not know the year or model of this machine.I do not want to mislead anyone with the wrong info.I have attached some photos, any input would be helpful.From the pictures i have seen think it somewhere around 1963,64 range. Thanks much

So you just have to give him engines that have holes in the engine block

That's pretty cool.

I had actually thought of looking for a turnbuckle and a couple of fittings but I REALLY don't need to plow anything because then I'd have to get a disc and fertilizer and seed AAAARRRRRGGGGG Guess I should get rid of it before the Miss's gets any ideas. My "honey do" list has more pages than the national budget as it is. Quick.......someone make me an offer!!!!

How long did it take you to make that ?

You really should any kohler engine lover would would love to own one if those👍

I did manage to remove paint on the frame decal. The serial I can make out but the only thing I could see on model number was rj 5 and couldnt make out whether it was a 9 or not. I will have to try it in better lighting. The serial looks like 18352? Again I will have to try better lighting to tell.

The old '77 is going up for sale soon , hope it goes to a decent price as work the last few years has been pretty thin and it's cut our income in half or worse . Need to fix the driver's rear wheel cylinders (these trucks use 2 per wheel) before it can go on sale - I won't sell a vehicle that isn't roadworthy - After 5yrs of ownership , I really don't want to let her go since I've wanted one for so long , but the cancer is really starting to accelerate and I'd like to see a collector get it and restore it before it goes too far . So many of these iconic trucks are being scrapped , parted out or turned into trail buggies it's starting to hurt the number of complete examples that are available . I have a whole room in the basement of spare parts - including the correct style twin rear doors that look new , along with a whole hardtop assembly and nearly new looking front doors . Previous owner was a flipper (hence , the wrong top/rear door arrangement) and did some bad things to it but it survives nonetheless . Driveline is original and runs extremely strong despite being 40yrs old this month . The engines were loosely based on the older 50's Chevy truck straight six - the industrial one and not the lighter built car/pickup engine . The odd history of how these things came about after WWII , the Marine Corps and Toyota's engineering is worth a read for the gearheads around here...these things are built more along the lines of a commercial truck rather than a consumer based car - everything is literally meant to be overhauled/serviced and put back without replacing it . The manual is incredible , outlines how to rebuild the steering box , water pump , brake booster fan clutch - every component in high detail although many of those small parts are no longer available . Everything is very heavy and overbuilt , which explains why so many are still surviving in outlying Nations all over the world despite a lack of proper care - and abuse . Sarge

That's probably what I'll do Terry. I'm thinking it will have a higher ground speed mowing too. I posted on the Garden Tractor Talk forum and got a lot of good advice there. Next weekend the house will be ours so I will be able to get a better look at it. Who knows what other goodies they might be leaving behind. I know there's a big exercise machine that's staying. They said it was too big and heavy to move and they didn't know how to dismantle it. Some folks might be thinking exercise........I'm thinking tractor weights.

Just grind the head flat. If you always install it the same direction, you can just grind the one side of the head flat so it doesn't rub. Or, remove the spring clip and grind the entire thing or cut the head off and drill a new hole. Or, cut it to the smaller length you want and make it shorter. To bend the spring clip to fit, heat it cherry red with a torch so it will bend without breaking and it's easier to cut too. Just don't heat the circle part or it will lose the "spring".

Im sorry to hear this. I will most certainly keep you in my prayers. Get well.

I added 2 pieces of plastic tubing to the pin on each side to keep the pin head away from the casting. If I remember correctly is was the gray 3/8" OD tubing used as supply lines to a deck faucet. Garry

Garry

Reviving an older thread... Launched two 520's this week. This one left today and headed back home to Indiana. Buyers truck pictured loaded to go. Best running 520 I've ever had. Didn't photo the other one. Won't miss 'em. My horse hauler suffered some damage this week after getting caught in a hail storm on the interstate. Windshield, toast! Headlamps, gone! Maybe it's a sign that rustling horses is in my past. Steve

I figured this may be the case. I've seen different decals in different spots on them.. then again I think in 61 or 62 they changed the model from HD42 to BD something or other. Which may be just a bit different with a different decal. Thanks. I went a bit overboard with color sanding and buffing. But why not right? Thanks @wildman. I had every intention of restoring it to a usable condition but I got a bit carried away with the paint work. It'll probably spend it's days as eye candy for me. But that's what I said about the tractor, the mower deck, and the dump cart. It's pretty hard to keep a wheel horse off the grass!

This kinda explains the problem.

I have TWO of the # 16 pins you look for these are both OEM.. Send me an email for details . my email address is: daveoman@windstream.net

Some of the wire locks on these pins have been known to rub and machine grooves in the PTO bell. I use a 1/4" socket head bolt and a locking nut.

It turned out to be better than expected. I wasn't too concerned about it not running since the old guy said it did, but we sprayed a shot of ether into the carb and it started for a bit. I don't plan on doing anything to this for a long time if even at all. The thing I liked is all the paperwork that came with it. I am very satisfied with this tractor and told the owner as much. Here are some pics.

That is really Cool , Lowell..

Keep the Kohler. Plenty of good ones out there. i have several good k301 blocks, heads ect.

It is a 2 cylinder 7800kw Onan from the 1960s. I can't get a picture of it now, too much stuff in the way! By the way it did lift it although it didn't like it. However the spindles liked it less!!

so today i was at Blain's Farm & Fleet in Bradley, IL. went there to pick up some hydrolic oil for the hy-2 on the 701. so dad and i was looking around by the farm tractor parts area and we run accross this gas cap dad says hey that looks close to the wheel horse gas caps. so i bought one. came home and i pulled it out of package and installed it on the 701 (which old cap leaked if gas sloshed around when full) the new cap looks amazing.

I did a HF swap in a small frame wagon puller. Harbor freight is super easy, but i did nor have a double drive pulley to think about an the wagon puller/sprayer First, i thought like a carpenter and made a perfectly square piece of plywood 16"x16" or so. Then I made sure that the engine was mounted perfectly square in the approximate center of the plywood. If it is not perfect, then adjustments can be made accordingly on the plywood Next, slide the plywood just to line up the pulleys. Once that was done, I marked the edges of the frame made the engine plate exactly 1.5" wider than the frame rails on each side and mounted 2 pieces of 1.5" angle underneath the plate that slide right next to the frame of the tractor. Table saws are nice to use for accuracy Now the engine is mounted perfectly square to the tractor. Add the pulleys and experiment with the engine sliding forward and back by c-clamping the angle irons to the frame. Once you are satisfied, drill the angles through the frame and bolt it in. I have always had problems trying to mount engines exactly accurate to a fixed plate. This system gives you a second chance. I will take some pictures of the process and post them ASAP. The first picture shows the engine mounted to the engine plate and pulley position aligned. Next,shows the angle irons added underneath letting the engine plate slide forward and back. The third shows the plate flipped over. the notch is for draining the oil. Notice that the angle irons stick out from the plate. That is so you can add hold downs to the front and back and fasten it through the top of the tractor frame, shown in the last picture. The sliding feature lets you clamp it on and run it to check the belt tension.before drilling

NICE! But still room for: Cup holder, heated steering wheel, cig. lighter, sun canopy, heated seat, wi-fi, usb port, flashing LED safety light for night time work, the list is endless...

Mainly guns. Old cars. Hot rods. Well all the cool dangerous stuff. Years back I competed in IHMSSA shooting competition. It was a lot of fun. I shot IDPA a few times. Shooting 1000 yards is very humbling when you find yourself shooting with guys that are "good" at it. I built a couple of choppers, but after back surgery, the bikes had to go. So now it's Wheelhorse tractors with you guys. Here's my last bike I built. Mark