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Weighing in at 5#12oz this little sweetheart became our 5th grandchild at 6:00pm yesterday. It was a rather event filled pregnancy and no doubt accounted for a few more gray hairs for grandma and grandpa. As a precaution they decided to induce labor a bit early but Mom and baby Ilyssa Ann are doing great. Here's her three bodyguard brothers. They just might come in handy years down the road.

Here is a photo of the hub puller that I just made.

I have many favourite tractors , but here is my bestist favourites . The blue one is not a Wheelhorse but I still like the little ones

10-28-1886 Statue of Liberty dedicated The Statue of Liberty, a gift of friendship from the people of France to the people of the United States, is dedicated in New York Harbor by President Grover Cleveland. Originally known as “Liberty Enlightening the World,” the statue was proposed by the French historian Edouard de Laboulaye to commemorate the Franco-American alliance during the American Revolution. Designed by French sculptor Frederic-Auguste Bartholdi, the 151-foot statue was the form of a woman with an uplifted arm holding a torch. Its framework of gigantic steel supports was designed by Eugene-Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc and Alexandre-Gustave Eiffel, the latter famous for his design of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. In February 1877, Congress approved the use of a site on New York Bedloe’s Island, which was suggested by Bartholdi. In May 1884, the statue was completed in France, and three months later the Americans laid the cornerstone for its pedestal in New York Harbor. In June 1885, the dismantled Statue of Liberty arrived in the New World, enclosed in more than 200 packing cases. Its copper sheets were reassembled, and the last rivet of the monument was fitted on October 28, 1886, during a dedication presided over by President Cleveland and attended by numerous French and American dignitaries. On the pedestal was inscribed “The New Colossus,” a sonnet by American poet Emma Lazarus that welcomed immigrants to the United States with the declaration, “Give me your tired, your poor, / Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, / The wretched refuse of your teeming shore. / Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me. / I lift my lamp beside the golden door.” In 1892, Ellis Island, adjacent to Bedloe’s Island, opened as the chief entry station for immigrants to the United States, and for the next 32 years more than 12 million immigrants were welcomed into New York harbor by the sight of “Lady Liberty.” In 1924, the Statue of Liberty was made a national monument, and in 1956 Bedloe’s Island was renamed Liberty Island. The statue underwent a major restoration in the 1980s.

This is the last piece that goes on this tractor. I just have to VHT2000 to it to complete. I am thinking either silver or black I also have cast iron not sure about that. I kinda like the way it came out real quiet now. I mean it is just a worker .No trailer queen here. OOHH my new heater I also have a 2 burner heats my space very well. Sorry about the sore neck picks tried to fix no go old camera.

Personally a restoration on a tractor that appears as far gone as photo suggests is in my opinion an act of charity or love of hobby. I doubt you will flip it for profit. And that's if you don't cost in labor. if however you enjoy the journey and like to resurrect old machines, it's a definitely a good project.

I paid $100 for this and turned it into this It's amazing what a little paint and a lot of time will accomplish! ALSO paid $100 for this one and turned it into this

Welcome to the forum. The tractor in my opinion is worth 100 at most. The 2 stage blower and tiller is hard to say without pictures. Were they kept in or out also? They could bring some good bucks if clean and operational.

to ! Usually it is lack of fuel problems... not the case here. The carburetor float is not closing the float needle when the float bowl is full. The float itself could be leaking and not providing the force required to push the needle closed. When the float is disassembled from the carb and shaken, it should not have any fluid in it. If it has any gas inside, it needs to be replaced. The needle could have some crud on it's sealing surface preventing it from fully closing. Worse case is the rubber seal of the the float needle has deteriorated to the point of not being able to seal. This will require replacement. Otherwise, cleaning should be all that is needed.

If you have already destroyed the hub, you can hacksaw it in half right up to the key and crack it off. If you have not yet destroyed it, do a search as mentioned above. People have been very creative and make their own pullers. Some use another old trashed hub that still has the 5 bolt holes, some have made plates, some make flange pullers that reach all the way to the back of the hub. One key though I have heard is it is best to always use grade 8 bolts that are SMALLER than the threads in the hub, then put a washer and nut behind the hub. You spread out the pulling force over much more area of the cast hub this way and less chance of breaking or pulling out threads.

Well I finally had some time to get the generator mounted. One of the POs had modified it to fit an earlier tractor so I I took it apart and mounted it on the plate in the factory slots. They also modified the undercarriage but that actually made it sit higher off the ground on the 161 and 314 so that was a good thing. A new belt and it was ready to go. It works really well but I was surprised how much it dragged down the engine on the 314 when engaging the PTO. The 161 didn't even notice it was there. The 314 is so much quieter and more efficient though I'll still probably use it on that tractor if the need arises.

Hello all, My dad has run across a wheel horse 414-8 in a field. The guy has a tiller attachment and a 79361 snow attachment. It has all been sitting for while but I hear these are quality machines. Is it worth trying to pick up, restore, and possibly resell? I just bought up my first Toro wheel horse (520xi) from my church. Seems to be a quality machine. Does anyone have recommendation on a price in its current condition?

I recently picked up a Mutt tractor. I was picking at it a little tonight and noticed how comfy the seat was on it. Looking it over I found that it was a Stedi Seat made by the Ohio rubber Co. I was just wondering if any one had heard of these seats? Another question I have is what can I put on the seat so that my bum does not turn black from the rubber seat? Gave it a quick once over with some Simple Green, starting to clean up nice. The rubber seat it fully suspended above the metal pan. Lets you sink in a little for some extra cushion. Looks like I should be able to take it apart so I can blast & paint the pan. Definitely want to use it on a build.

I got these 2 Horses to pose for a couple of pics a while back. I had borrowed my brother's pressure washer and moved these future projects off of the back porch to wash it. If I'd a had more time they would have gotten a bath also.

After seeing these transmissions run for years with water and sluge in them and work just fine. I think any clean oil will work just fine. The uni drive trans was one of the best small trans made. In my opinion.

Here is my PJ Trailer I bought last year. It is 7x14 and single axle. Biggest I could find or want to go without second axle.

Glad you are a happy owner, but the 414 kind of depends on how ambitious you are feeling. The satisfaction you will receive from saving the from being scrapped is likely to be the only profit you could expect. I would offer no more than $ 50 and hope it can be saved, made operable and run it as a rat rod worker. The money and labor needed to bring it back to its former glory would too high in my opinion. Hate to see it going to the crusher, but wouldn't want to see you dump a bunch of work and money on it and get back a dime on the dollar.

The original gas tank on the Allis Chalmers BIG TEN is in sad shape. Many pin holes and it had already been coated inside sometime in it's lifetime. So I found some stainless steel plate from an old job and after a little bit of TIG welding I have a replacement till an original replacement tank can be found.

VERY NICE!!!! Wish I could weld like that. That inspires to get a TIG and take some classes.

The small puller has 3/8 gr8 bolts that slip through the 7/16 hub holes and save the threads The big one is on a D series but you could use eh same idea on yours pull from the back, it is not an optical illusion in the one picture I bent 2 - 1.25 inch thick wall tubes pulling the hub

here is mine

Umm, I wouldn't want to replace that one, not even with an original. Great job!

The cab is older than the tractors, it's probably from a "C" but I got it with a 418A that I flipped because I just wanted the cab and didn't have the funds at the time keep it, so the duct tape is a temporary fix for a missing zipper, had plans to take it to an automotive upholstery shop for repairs/ replacement of zippers and windows and maybe add the lower window where the tape is so I can see the front tires while sitting down, (if it's cheaper than a new one?), Jeff. A couple pics of the 418A and the Anniversary in its "glory days"

Here is what came with my used 1054.

Here's my 414 with a 520 steering reduction and Ark loader.

3600 hours ?!?!?! That's like mowing 8 hours a day 5 days a week every week for almost two years! I'd like to see somebody try that with a Lowes or Home Depot special. My Magnum 416 had about 750 hours on it and the K powered 416 has a little over 800 hours on the clock. Boy at this rate, I will never wear them out LOL Ken and Tankman, you guys have some handsome tractors

Hi all, I bought a 310-8 tractor, my first Wheel Horse. I read on here that 80w-140 was what came in the trans. I bought this bottle of Lucus Gear Lube. I was thinking it should work, anyone else use it? Ken

No internet over the weekend had lot of free time so I tried my hand at building a sleeve hitch for my c-120. I still got more to do on it before I'm finished.

This is my 520-H. We put stainless steel on it. I thinks it looks cool, what do you think?

I don't know about the attachments but if he gave you the tractor for nothing you'd still be out a lot money of to get it operational.It looks to have been outside a long time.The strap between the footrest and fender pan makes me wonder what else got rigged.If parted out you could come out ahead but then you have to take it apart and sell the pieces.In my opinion its worth more parted out but you would have to put in the effort and deal with the leftover parts no one wants.Sounds cold but in that state it isn't worth much unless you really want something to work on.JMHO,JAinVA

Tell "the guy" you would like to have it as a project. Ask how much for all. Not knowing if it runs or if the tiller needs alot of work you might get it for cheap. If you start it in front of the owner he might want to keep it. There's a reason it's been in the field .........

you might be a redneck if you keep your horses on the back porch.....I could not resist. Looks like a couple of great projects.

Like I told my Granddaughter who I taught to weld, practice, practice, practice. She is a pretty good welder herself.

I agree fine would be better (actually an acme thread would be best, what they use for center crews in most pullers). I went with NC because I wanted it fully Threaded. Fully threaded NF $12.06 Each Ouch!!

If it runs well and everything works, it is worth it. Check the fluid condition, mid attach-a-matic for wear, the end of the frame where the transaxle bolts for cracks, and that the rear cylinder is working. Try offering less if possible.

One other consideration, you should jack up the front of the while draining to ensure complete emptying. The casting has a hump in the middle which will trap part of the old fluid if you don't.

Can't find a wiring diagram either. This model can't have a complicated electrical system. Possibly a cigar lighter and a wire to charge the battery. Look for thin spots of insulation where vibration has worn the insulation thin exposing the bare wires. If you have a simple test light (contains no batteries) hook it across the 2 terminals that hold the fuse. The probe on one terminal and the alligator clip on the other. As long as the short is present the light should light but think the engine must be running in your case because the charging circuit is what powers the fuse. Any normal electrical load (lights, horn, sirens, battery) will also light the test light. Using a test light just saves you from going through a case of fuses. You may have to disconnect the negative battery cable after the engine is running so you don't get a false light caused by current flow into the battery.. Keep us posted on what you find. Garry

Good advice from r356c, let me add that you should do an immediate oil change since you likely have gas in the oil.

I'd check the local Tractor Supply store and see if they have any covers that can be put over a tractor seat. Somebody out there has to have something that would work. You could also check with buckrancher a member here. His wife Jo makes seat covers for the metal seat pans on the older Horses. If you sent that to her sha might be able to make a custom cover for it to keep black color from rubbing off onto your backside.

Really nice work...

very nice work there

Don't have a 414 yet but here is my 416-6 the day I picked it up and how it looks now. It's an 1987 and sat for 27 years outside covered up.

2 Blackies! Nice.

Here is mine Van but it is no longer a Tractor. All in pieces in my shed. I have pilfered quite a few parts over the years.

My C-120 with the HH120 is still my most trouble free tractor.

This little guy here... makes my heart skip a beat too.