Leaderboard

Most of my deck hitches are badly worn so I decided to make a couple. These are for my 42" and 48" decks. 60" is completely different. They are just tacked together now to check for fitment, I will take them back to work for final welding and painting. I have drawn up the plans, I will scan them and post as well. Cleat

CHAPTER 1 So I learn a neighbor is selling a Cub 128 puller (with a 16HP motor) . I delayed a few days and thought I better at least look at it Bad move, no way I wasn't buying it . . . I know I just committed a sin because she ain't red, but a deal is a deal She ain't pretty, but the guy dumped a lot of money in the engine and pulling accessories. It is set to go with wheelie bars/weights/hitch/tach/carb spacer/shift lock/exhaust, heck he even threw in four scales so I can pre-weigh it in the garage The tractor is rock solid, straight and pretty rust free. Now before you say "carb spacers are illegal" and assorted other advice, I only plan on using at "fun pulls" in the area. I don't really have the time for competitive pulling (yet). Chapter 2 So, I have to get it in the garage without my wife freaking Fortunately with the holiday, I was off Monday and my wife planned a shopping trip with my niece who happened to be staying with us few days. "That's awesome honey, you guys have a great time today and shop till you drop." I then hooked up the trailer grabbed the Cub, off-loaded it washed/dried it and had it under a cover in garage in t-minus three hours. That included washing the mud tracks off the driveway after having to drive in the dirt to pick up said Cub avoiding "Hey honey, what in the world were you doing with the truck today that you were in the mud . . . .?" Chapter 3 1. Park truck beside covered tractor so wife doesn't notice there is something under there other than a pet unicorn. 2. Go inside and promptly order some jewelry online 3. Wrap jewelry upon arrival and wait for the occasion when wife needs something from that side of the garage and discovers new addition OR I find Captain Morgan can be effective at helping her better understanding certain things 4. Hope it all works out and none of your Red Square buddies let the story slip at the Spring Show so you are not on to wife #3 Seriously, I think she be over it by then, plus I made SURE I finally fixed the non-working rear hatch on her SUV last night that I have been putting off for weeks And it was a happy holiday in Dillsburg. THE END Lastly, some pictures. With a butt like this, how could not . . .

The trail camera caught my Horse playing in the snow!

I decided to install plow off a 520 (longer set up) on my C160, add the rear weight box, turf tires and old school wheel weights and chains. We had some heavy and wet snow the other day and it pushed really well.

Found this pic in Mom's old album and thought I'd share it with y'all. Not sure where to post this in the proper forum. Anyhow, I don't know a darn thing about the Pond Walkaways but this kinda looks like one maybe. Those are 2 of my uncles circa 1953.

First....In your 2nd pic, it looks like the hyd motor shaft is free-floating....that's not right. You should NOT be able to remove it just by taking off the little cir-clip. There is a retaining clip down inside the cyl block assy and that is what holds the spring tension on the individual pistons. If that clip is broken,there'd be little to no power. Secondly.... the motor housing MUST be oriented correctly..(.you should have marked it before taking it apart). It can be mounted 180 deg out of phase. Note the orientation in my pics. It occurs to m, too, that the cylinder block SPRING may have broken...maybe. There is a SPIRAL RING retaining clip that holds the spring inside the cylinder block, with a thin washer between the clip and spring. My pics aren't too good, but you can see some of it.

My wife always says, "jewelry prevents head-aches"!

I think you will find the two collet pieces inside the domed washer piece. The inside lip is probably worn or sheared off.

Could be an 855 or there about, has been re powered from the looks of the fuel tank. First thing you would need is a belt guard so you won't be grinding gears all the time.

Very nice. I would think you have a "marketable" item there!

Good luck with you adventure , since I hope to go to the Big Show , I hope to meet what's left of you. Hope the gift for the wife is at least equal or higher value than the puller. If not your A_ _ is grass and I know who will be guiding the mower. Not sure I would want a ride on that , broke my back once.

Many members have had good luck installing a bike chain in the middle of the tires. Deflate them and install chain and then inflate. Kinda like turning on a rail.

If someone has not told you yet...the answer to your roll pin question is "yes"...the spring goes under the roll pin and then the pin goes back in place.

The shop is quite now. No more sounds of a BFH, the sounds of a saws-all or noise of a air chisel. Gone are the few choice well used swear words. The battlefield is silent, the battle over the war won. I stand here triumphant with my surrendered enemy, the frozen hitch pin in hand. This is just not a lone victory but a victory for all Red Square members that have faced this battle and for all who will face it again, and for all who will face it for the first time. That there is hope in determination to face down this dreaded enemy that stands in are way of the perfect transmission rebuild. Talk about laying on the BS. Lol, Anyway it's out! Time to celebrate.

Been trying to get a froze hitch pin out (like we have never heard that one before have we gang lol.) finally got the pin to rotate in the transmission. The crazy thing is froze in the slot hitch. So the first battle of the war was won. Now just cut the pin between the case and the hitch and the war should swing in my favor. There should be some kind of a medal for all of the guys and gals that have fought this war and won and survived. Drilling, air chiseling, sawing, etc. takes a toll on the ol arms. Not to mention the desire to just say _ _ _ _ it , and just walk away. But we all keep at it till the war is won. This particular one has been a tuffy so far and looks like it will fight to the bitter end.

We have had weeks of rain here in the UK. It seemed like a good idea to go for a play in the mud. until we got stuck, here's a few pics and a video http://youtu.be/tHyKTt4J6w8

So, I read up on where to put a hydro filter. Best place being in the return line, so that's what I'm doing. Just like a 5xi has a strainer screen on the left side that is user serviceable, I decided to do something simulate with my loader hydraulics. The strainer looks like a clean out, but is actually described in industry as a "y strainer". Here is what I bought. That strainer will protect the pump and the valve from larger debris. The 80 mesh is .007" openings. Its probably overkill, but wanted to do one anyway. It was a cheap enough add-on so I figured what the heck. You could mount a hydro filter in that location, but I've read that you are best served having it in the return line.

Nice score Zeek, but...won't all that pulling stuff swap over nicely... to something red, and more appealing to the eye?

Yep! I keep my Kroil for special occasions. It is pricey! But if it works where nothing else does then it's worth it. As a side note, I do think that using other stuff and then Kroil with no better results is not fair to Kroil. If another product only partially creeps in but blocks Kroil from going any further or making full contact to the problem spots then it's not Kroil's fault. So using everything else first and then saying Kroil didn't work either might not be a proper test... Probably better to heat again as hot as you dare or what is appropriate to burn off and out any other product and THEN try Kroil would be a better approach.

There better not be a Tecky under the hood or I'm tellin!!!!!

Well, I finally got to try out the 2 stage blower on a 520H. Snow is not real deep but it is very heavy ice crystal snow with a fairly thick covering of solid ice on top. Works real well and throws snow a long ways. Only problem is steering but a slight lift of the blower gets it going the right direction. No wheel weights but the rear tires are loaded. Auger sounds like it is hitting something, I will check that out once it drys out in the heated shop. Cleat

Nice fab work... looks factory original.

well I grew confidence spoke with indy wh a.k.a (mitchell) last night on the phone he walked me right through it seems to be a cake walk well see once I get parts if it leaks

Dennis and Hank have the right approach. Use patience. If PD blaster does not work, buy some Kroil-it is 4X the price but works better. I have had to pull the rock shaft out of two late 70's model tractors. You cannot swing a hammer in there, however if you pull on the lift lever (make sure you have removed item 5 and 41 in Daveoman's pix), the rock shaft will hit the side of the tower and should slide off.

I think it was in the late 1950s. I helped an old guy, ( who was a plumber ), put in a cast iron sewer line in a house that was getting indoor plumbing. He used a torch like that to melt the lead to seal the joints, where the sections of cast iron pipe went together. The fuel he used in his torch was white gas ( that's what he called it ) . That was a long time ago. I believe that is the same as the old Coleman lanterns and cook stoves use.

...and boy...did it turn out great Magne.

I agree with Hank, sometimes it takes time. Sometimes it takes more times. Heating and cooling seems to help. PB Blaster and the like needs time to soak deep into the trouble locations. Then again sometimes a bigger torch and hammer is the right combo!

continuing on to the second scenario, but first the obligatory cautions If you have any questions on your ability to perform this mod, do not have the proper tools, fear the mod may introduce a "fire hazard" in your home, or fear loss of the warranty on this ($5) product, PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION. The second modification concerns changing a resistor within the float charger circuitry. This mod can be performed if the voltage output of the float charger exceeds 14 volts or is under 13.2 volts. Why can there be such a variance in the output voltage? HF has been producing this particular float charger for over 10+ years and has apparently gone thru several styles of circuit boards. Some of the original boards I had contained circuitry that required hand selection of a resistor value to set the output at 13.2 volts. Understand we are talking about a product that routinely sells for under $5. Any time assemblers had to hand select a resistor value to adjust the output to 13.2 V DC - well, that just becomes too costly. If the value needed to output exactly 13.2 VDC fell in between standard, readily available resistor values, several resistors had to be placed in parallel to come up with a "custom" value in order to achieve 13.2 VDC. Some of the early HF boards had several slots to insert these parallel resistors to achieve 13.2 VDC. This concern for additional manual labor to custom adjust the float chargers every time a new batch of transistors were received became a cost concern. A new circuit board was apparently designed to allow the user of a variable resistor - a potentiometer - to be inserted onto the circuit board for final voltage adjustment. A quick screwdriver tweek of the potentiometer would set the outp[ut voltage at 13.2 VDC. Done and done. Well not quite. Potentiometers cost about 20 cents each and a resistor costs about 1 cent in quantity, sooooo....... the bean counters must have said something about the additional 19 cents in cost. Bean counters usually win and the product was assembled with a 1 cent resistor that was "close enough". This results in a possible explanation why some of the early model chargers put out a precise voltage and some not so precise. The second scenario mod will change the 1 cent "close enough" resistor back to the 20 cent potentiometer design. This mod will allow the float charger output to vary between 12 to 15 volts. You as the user will have the final say in what the output voltage is - you should strongly consider setting the voltage around 13.2 VDC for proper float charging. This mod also had the advantage of being tweeked slightly if you need say 13.6 for gell cell float voltage. Pros . Cons Pro - only a 20 cent modification - ability to adjust final float voltage for wet lead acid, glass mat and gel cell variants of batteries. Con - solderiing / de-soldering skills are needed - you need to order a potentiometer - the potentiometer may not be as reliable in a damp or wet environment as a resistor - rough handling (tossing the float charger or dropping it to the floor) may change the output voltage and require a quick resetting of the potentiometer. From my internet searches, I find at least 3 versions of this circuit produced over the years, The mod I am presenting was performed on chargers in the 2008 era as seen by the stamping on the power supply cases. My circuit board looks like the one below. I am currently placing an order for the most recent offering from HF as I believe this charger is going to be on clearance for the 2016 year . Having addressed cautions and expectations, I will begin the mod in the next post

This isn`t going to help at all, but since you brought it up I remember as a kid they did sell dynamite at the local hardware store here in Fairfield. Hard to believe the way things are today.

Make the holes the right size (#3) and then you can tap them to 1/4" NF and screw in grease fittings afterwards. The C-160 that I bought then sold to my neighbor came with a grease fitting there and the pin just slid out. Cleat

Wish I had read these post before I began my painting..I bead blasted all parts after a complete tear down. I mean every nut bolt and screw. I then primed everything with Rustoleum white bare metal primer. I then took the cheap way and bought the Majic paint at the tractor store..IH Red and the IH white..I used a spray gun and mix with the hardener and thinned with mineral spirits. As for the results, I am very pleased with the finish, no it did not take weeks or many days to cure. I am not restoring this for show but it does look great, however it is still in pieces and I will know the full results soon..Hope I didn't make too big of a mistake. All I can say is read and learn from these guys, they know their stuff. Thanks for being there for us noobs.

I've been spending way too much time on the wheel horse, but it is addictive. I took care of the weak factory tie rods and replaced those with the threaded rod and aluminum bushing method talked about on this forum. The aluminum rod was a bear to fit into the threaded rod, but I got it reamed out. Spent some time working on the deck repairs too. Looking for a dial a height knob and a mule drive knob for the front. Also spent some time painting the seat and panels. I haven't touched the hood yet and most likely wont. The steering gear bracket was also cracked on both sides. I had a welder weld the two pieces back together and I had him put a reinforcement piece in front to make it stronger. This is the welded bracket. Hope it helps with the weak spot in the steering system.

He's not wrong, I had a C-101 for about 6mths now I also have a C-161 and I still search every other day to see if any more are near me that need to be saved. That looks a nice tractor. Welcome to the forum.

Looks good Mike! I have these custom made. Mike's particular one is extra long to fit B's,C's and Blackhoods with the longer hood. Cost is $50.00 plus shipping depending on steel prices. I make nothing on them. I have a retired friend who is a retired welder/fabricator that does them for me.

After hours of internet searching and researching, I got the wheel horse bug! I started looking for our old family tractor and thought I'd find another one. It was an old 66' Cub Cadet. I found a few on the internet, but after researching about the tractor I found out that it may not be the best purchase for me. What came up mostly was the love of the wheel horse and I became hook and starting looking for those type tractors. I found many across the state but it is almost impossible to view all of them due to vast distances. My top three were a 64' 1054, a 67 1057 and a C 100. After thinking it over I decided on the C 100. It was well taken care of and should provide a lot more life I'm in the processes of cleaning it up and doing some modified painting of certain parts. Basically tune up stuff. Mower deck needs some holes patched, but it does seem pretty clean. The plow is in great shape. Best of all, it came with about 7 various manuals and brochures for viewing .

Not to make this thread about that compressor, just to answer a cool trivia question. That is an old 70's-80's Chrysler RV2 ac compressor with the electric clutch welded together. Pretty good ac compressors, but I'm not sure how well they will hold up as a industrial air compressor. There are no fins for cooling. They were originally cooled by the cold refrigerant flow. They also tended to pump a bit of oil, as oil control is not important in a refrigerant loop (oil and refrigerant mixed together and pumped through the system). Keep a good check on oil level and don't run it too long at one time, or it could overheat. There used to be plenty of these in the auto junk yards, but they haven't been used in so long, they're getting hard to find used.

yeah some straps and come along....with some 4'levels for straight edge... I didn't want to bang away for fear of warping, egging, or damaging the ends or bearings. Though that is my usual and most successful tactics!!

So the auger itself is bent? How far out is it? All I can think of is to try and push it back. Maybe with a 2x4 and hammer to bang it back?

Not doing the driveway, that is already finished, but clearing the path to the bird and critter feeders...

I had two stuck, one quite bad. I heated it with a torch which helped a bit. Hard to heat that large mass. My biggest fear was cracking the rear end someplace but fortunately that did not happen. I make up new pins from Stainless steel then grease or never-seize them. Just taking them out from time to time should help as well. Cleat

That isn't an issue, more of an issue having the right parts on hand and not paying for shipping 2-3 times and weeks of downtime. That's what I don't know is if something happened to the valve stem, the keepers or the retainer failed. There weren't any odd or funny noises/smoke/etc before it died. I was trying to avoid pulling the head just because I didn't want to but it looks like I'll be removing the head tonight. Anybody have any ideas how things like this happen?

My grandfather had one, but I was too chicken to try to light it. The guy in the video is way braver than me. Found this after I posted, LOL. IT IS STRONGLY SUGGESTED THAT YOU NOT ATTEMPT TO LIGHT ANY GASOLINE BLOW TORCH. THEY ARE SIMPLY TOO DANGEROUS. THERE IS NO RELIABLE WAY TO DETERMINE IF A TORCH IS SAFE TO LIGHT BECAUSE THERE ARE TOO MANY VARIABLES!

@DougC Off to Amazon Doug...blowing snow yesterday 16+ volts so into the shop ...yup regulator overcharging...go figure & go fish if I drop the bolt!!

I haven't forgotten about this thing..............Was planning a trip to Florida that we had to cancel last minute, and all free time was devoted to prepping my 5th wheel for the trip. Before we left my goal was to at least get the back end of the tractor together and get it back to the shed. Got the linkage all adjusted up and put it back together. My phone speedometer app only shows whole numbers but shows 7 running up and down the road. Good enough for me! Cleaned the hydro screen also before I put it back together. Since I have lots of free time on my hands now this week, I decided it was a good time to yank the engine and clean out behind the cooling shroud (engine tin), along with replaced the foam I destroyed with the pressure washer. Pulled the deck off for winter to start. Ran it around and got it hot first and changed both engine and hydraulic oil and filters. Started pulling the frontend apart while the trans filled. Got the engine out, blew out the frame and called it a night. I'm going to wire brush and touch up the bare areas of frame before the engine goes back in. Hopefully tomorrow I can get that done along with pulling the shrouds and blowing the cooling fins out. Wife started giving me a hard time about all the time I've put into it lately, and of course money, which I doubt has hit $200 (aside from the bagger SHE wanted). She said she thought it was a good machine and shouldn't need all this time and effort put into it. I told her it IS a good machine and just has some long overdue maintenance items that need done (it is 15 years old), and that if she prefers I can replace it with something brand new that's going to run at least 10K and still need to be maintained. I'm keeping the Horse for a while!

Over the fall I've been accumulating (hoarding) a few attachments. I added a blower and rototiller. Haven't used either yet but they hook up and attach very good. Used the plow today after some snowfall and very please with the capabilities. Attached are some pic's. Also found a Snowco trailer that I'm currently in the process of refurbishing.

More pictures inn the album.

I have been looking for mufflers for my D180 and just couldn't find anything I could afford right now so this is what I came up with and for now it works good, It cut the sound by 2/3rds. I took 1 1/4 emt and cut slots in it 14 of them in 4 rows over a 8 inch span and then took a punch and bent the bottoms of the slots in so that they catch the exhaust then I wrapped the emt with 1/2" square wire mesh and then wrapped the mesh with fiberglass about 3/8 inch thick and then wrapped that with wire just to hold it all in place. I took empty torch cylinders and drilled 1 1/4 holes in each end and then cut them in half and covered the fiberglass. I installed them just to see if they worked. Now I will take them off and welt them up and reinstall them. Like I said they might not work for long but they sound great for now not sure what is going on with the picture

The rain hasn't stopped here in two days around 10" and now its supposed to get cold finally I'm glad i got the 633 inside and the compressor home while it wasn't to cold. I also got to put a few miles on the RJ and the new trailer Christmas day over at my brothers house giving my nieces and nephews rides. Didn't get much work done on the 633 but cleaned up the air compressor and changed the oil decided not to paint it. Works great and is big enough to run my air tools and is so quiet and pumps up fast.

I found the O-rings and backer rings on Ebay all sold as a set for the cylinder they were for a Bolens tractor but they use the same hydraulics pump and cylinder as Wheel Horse http://www.ebay.com/itm/151649994372?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT you get 3 big O-rings 1 small 0-ring and 2 backer rings for around 13.50 just rebuilt my pump and cylinder and they worked fine.

Subframe DONE. Welding DONE. Heres a shot of my last bead: The subframe fits great, I do need to order the big mamma-jamma u-bolts that will clamp the subframe to the rear axle. One thing that kinda bugs me is that I have to remove the red plastic bumper cover while having the loader mounted, otherwise the cross tube in the main boom will just graze it. In the Kwikway owner manual it says the bumper cover needs to be removed, I just figured it was so the front diagonal brace brackets had more clearance. Oh well. Not a deal breaker, it just looks better with the red cover on, I think. I suppose if I welded the subframe up with the uprights maybe an inch farther forward it would have cleared, but that would have monkeyed with the center of gravity and made the setup just slightly more tippy. Here are the photos that show the frame and bucket lined up/mounted.