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Had the frame/supports/rails welded on my C-145 Auto today. The plan is to use it this winter for snow plowing. While it’s apart I’ll power wash it and get the trans fluid and filter swapped out. Then install the frame to transmission supports that I bought from @ri702bill . Looking forward to having hydraulic lift this winter!

Just got a job as senior director at Old MacDonald's Farm... I’m the CIEIO

Oh, I get it...nobody calked around the ladder.

Everything is great. I got that old momentary switch out also.

I've used all the blowers. Short chute, long chute, and dual stage and they all work well in the dry deep snow but not very well in the wet small snows. The single stage blowers must be kept full to work properly and to prevent the chute from clogging. This means the ground speed needs to be adjusted requiring a hydro transmission. IMO, a cab is also a must when using a blower. I now have 48" and 54' plows on my snow movers that I use to keep five driveways clean. I have no problems pushing and stacking the snow on the lawns.

All I got was this pic

A heavy wet overnight snowfall of six or more inches can be a challenge to clean up. I have two tractors set up for winter use - the C81 with the plow and the 854 8 speed with the 32 inch single stage snowthrower. The plow is best for moving a small amount of snow quickly; the snow thrower can move a large amount of snow rather slowly. I tend to rough out the cleanup starting with the snowthrower and finish with the plow...However, dry fluffly snow is usually dealt with the plow only - If it is windy the snow thrower shoots the snow up into the air and it usually goes everywhere but where you actually want it to go...

Picked this up over the weekend for $200 form a “picker” in the area. Besides the tractor it came with a 36 Rear discharge deck and a 42” dozer blade. I also noted the slot (or Celvis, not sure what) hitch on the back. He pulled it out of the woods at a widow’s house due to her wanting to relocate and needing to liquidate the estate of her late husband. Once I got it home and on the surgery table, inspection lead to find the motor seized (likely due to the “tractor” exhaust) as well the most of the electrical shot. Obviously the tires are blown out and will need replacement. Other issues that were noted were the seat (or the lack of I should say), the clutch rod hanging because it snapped in the middle and various rusted hardware being snapped off or corroded. Got it on stands and the heart removed and somewhat broken down tonight. after removing the head and covers, I found the piston and both valves seized in place. The cause is definitely water getting into the intake as the exhaust side is more stuck then the intake. More to come soon after some ATF and Kroil work their magic on it.

DCCLIV

Plow the snow into the yard. It is what I do. I have a a 56" D series blade on a Charger 16 pushed it off ...Haven't had a need for my blower in a few years. If you have a gravel driveway get a sweepster to put the stones back in the driveway in the spring...

Those tabs are real fragile, but they can be repaired. I found the right guy to weld a case I had at an old radiator shop...cost me $20. Here is a couple of pics. Personally, I would take Don up on his offer...but keep your casting. It is fixable. You do have to be very careful with welds so as not to interfere with any gears. Things are tight in there.

Hey guess what?? I have a working tractor. It cranked right up. I can’t begin to thank you so much for all your time.

Over the last several days I’ve been moving trailer loads of wood chips to cover our now-sunlit hillside. Goal is to prevent an explosion of weed growth on an un-mowable slope left by the arborists when we removed a bunch of invasive Norway Maple trees . I carved out a temporary level “notch” in the hillside to park the tractor and loaded trailer on the trips up the hill. I need the tire chains for traction (visible tracks in the pic) and I keep the mower deck and front weights mounted for extra confidence. (The trailer attaches to the below-rear-axle standard drawbar--also good.) Going down, I walk the empty trailer and drive the tractor in 1st with my foot holding the clutch pedal up firmly. Progress has been slow and exhausting so I’ll be hiring some workers to help me finish it off.

We want the video of that, don't hold out on us.

You have come to the right place. Decks for the 312-8 are still fairly easy to find, a couple of our vendors offer good used decks or NOS never been used decks. You could call Lincoln at A to Z Tractor https://a-ztractor.com/ or send a Personal Message to Brian @76c12091520h at K&B. Bothe are first rate people.

Honestly I think I have one! Is this it?

IMHO and experience... If you need a snowblower - get a two stage. They have the serious advantage of being able to operate at slower tractor ground speeds while having less tendency to load up. Not none.. less. Trina and I do basically what's outlined by several above. Nearly all snows nowadays get the plow blade. She absolutely loves moving snow. We can all agree "seat time" is excellent. Here, we don't use a Wheelhorse for mowing. We do use them 4 to 5 months a year for snow removal. We have to plan far ahead for much larger storms that don't melt. Our plowed area is a good strong 10 to 20 feet past the desired clearing zone. If we're home we would rather plow a large storm multiple times than use the snowblower once, then plow to scrape the surface clean. We are currently using the Ariens Commercial walk behind snowblower. I have a Wheelhorse Dual Stage one I'd like to try sometime. Perhaps this year and perhaps being mounted on the Briggs 20 HP Vanguard V twin powered C160-8.

I put the snow on the other side of that firewood row with the 520H and 2 stage. Of course a small amount of snow that is wet can bring things to a halt. A glass windshield with a wiper is essential. SAM_3227.MP4

Tough to beat a 520 - H with a cab for the big storms and clean up around the back of the shop and access to the basement. 418 or 417 with a 48'' front dozer blade is nice for the smaller amounts. C-160 and 314 will do the job as well.

the key issue to me is the personal situation of the homeowners driveway - as well as the equipment -- i find the tractor with a blade can handle 8-10 inches comfortably - but over 10 then it makes sense to be sure to plow before it gets deeper - - especially if wet -- but clearly in your situation you have to have somewhere to put the snow -- not just for the one storm but for multiple storms over multiple weeks ------- when i plow early in the season i always push the snow 5-6 feet off the drieway edge so i have a place to push and pile it for future storms -- but if necessary i use a walk behind blower along the edge of the driveway to throw it a distance clearing the 5-6 ft on the lawn for next storm............ - to me a modest storm of 3-4-5-6 inches is job for the blade ------ but it really depends on the driveway as much as any other factor - if as you say you dont have room and have to throw it a distance then thats a reality that cant be changed

I have a 2 stage on a 520H for the deep stuff (over 6 inches) and a 48" plow on a Work Horse 1800 for light snow, slush and clean up. Works good for me. 750' driveway. As Ed said, a cab is a big plus with a blower. (I don't have one)

September 22, 1994, the television sitcom Friends, about six young adults living in New York City, debuts on NBC. The show, which featured a group of relatively unknown actors, went on to become a huge hit and air for 10 seasons. It also propelled the cast—Jennifer Aniston, Courteney Cox, Lisa Kudrow, Matt LeBlanc, Matthew Perry and David Schwimmer—to varying degrees of stardom and success in Hollywood.

Cool. Thanks will let you know a little later today how it went. I sure do appreciate all your time with this. Steve

Any good machine shop should be able to mill slots where the threads need to be. New predrilled cast iron tabs could then be placed in the slots then bolted to the side panel while the tabs are welded into the slots in place of the missing material. It won't be cheap but would make for a great "How I SAVED IT" thread.

I don't know if I have ever got a machine that wasn't at least cracked here. If I was to say what the weak link is on these machines it is here. Fortunately it does not cause any great harm as the machines run along just fine like this but like Sparky, I just can't leave it and get them welded up.

Yes Old ensolite sleeping pad over pvc board with vinyl top... used for numerous applications... including another model WH that I'm working on. Here's the first one... 1 and 3 year old testing engineers approved...

Today: Seat pad made from materials on hand. Ran around the hood - no surging!!!

I completely agree. I do the same.... I was away on business for a week years back - it snowed early in the week & my wife paid a neighbor to plow the driveway & in back. He did not push the snow up onto the grass.... It snowed again when I got home - and had almost nowhere to put that snow.

Here is a very basic wiring drawing using the 103990 ignition switch which separates various functions of the electrical system and shows how they all come together at the ignition switch. Colors are not factory colors and it doesn't have the safety switches because they are no all the same from model to model, just the basics.

It’ll deliver to WI soon.

I see an A-60 in the background, are you keeping it or just holding it for Uncle Jim?

Just a few progress pictures on the truck…

Sometimes, you don't get that choice. I'm currently working on creating ditches along my future driveway on our Ky property. I'm roughing them out with the backhoe on my MF GC 1720, then want to finish them off with the grader blade and my 8n. I just discovered Saturday that the grader blade for the 8n has a tilt function to go along with angle and offset adjustments. Perfect feature to form ditches. However, the bolts on the tilt adjustment are rusted solid. Probably have been for several decades. I first met this implement in the mid 90's the first time I owned this tractor. The grader blade was old and rusty then. I sold it in the early 2000's, then bought it back in '19 or '20. The grader blade came back with it. The guy i sold the tractor to used the grader blade to maintain the gravel parking lot around his warehouse. I'm 99.999% sure he never tilted the blade or even knew about the tilt adjustment. He did add some reinforcements to the blade and painted it black. All I had during this trip to work on this was a can of PB Blaster and a propane torch. Its been rusted for a looong time, so it will take time to break it loose.

Evening progress: Tail lights installed. Yes they are on top of the decal. PO drilled and placed a light there - long gone - so I reused holes to extent possible and covered up the torn decal...

1. Why can't the bankrupt cowboy complain? He has got no beef.

This is first set of hubs that I have ever had with 2 set screws besides the ones that came on the 2 520's I acquired a few months back. These hubs are a lot beefier than the older star type one set screw type, I figured the dimple would work better than trying to grind a flat on the axle. I got to thinking they needed a dimple or flat on axle for future disassembly. I will tell on myself though; I was so tickled with my hubs I forgot to put brake drum and band back on before driving around the barn . Funny as heck though when I went to stop and no brakes..

Continued to tinker with carb to address surging and today that issue was replaced with a runaway throttle problem...! Had not touched the governor arm / adjustment. When I went to full throttle it went way too high and no governor limits... Governor arm came out of adjustment - loose bolt. Adjusted and bam... running great! I think the governor arm was slipping on the shaft adding to the surge issue... Now runs with only a minor hint of surging when cold... warmed up it runs much better now. Tail lights arrive today. That's next...

My wife says she misses me… but her aim is getting better…😁

This picture taken at "interveiw"

Hi Stevasaurus, I’m glad I’m not the only one that has run into this issue! Seems like a strange design with the treaded bolts sitting in the oil bath. I’m guessing they must have leaked a little or at least seeped some by the bolts? I am very interested in that case that Don has, I believe I sent a PM to him, but I’m not sure if it went through or not (I’ve never done that before), I haven’t heard back. There must be a torque spec for those side cover bolts, but I haven’t found it. If I’m lucky enough to get this fixed it will need some new seals and gaskets! C-85

Thanks for the suggestions, this group is full of critical thinkers! C-Series Don, I would be very interested in that case you have! C-85

I did some more work on the full-flow oil filtration conversion on my Dodge M37's engine. I decided to slightly revise the external filter plumbing---just some minor adjustments to get a better fit. (BTW, just as an explanatory note, the way the original bypass filtration worked in the old MoPar flathead six in my Dodge M37, only a small percentage of the oil was diverted through the filter; the bulk of the oil was delivered to the bearings, etc., with no filtration whatsoever. Eventually, all of the oil would pass through the filter, but if there was any dirt/debris in the oil, it would typically loop through the system many times before it all got filtered out. The later versions of this engine went to a full-flow system, so that all of the oil is filtered before it reaches the bearings. The original bypass filter media was very fine and could trap very small particles, but I think that a modern spin-on oil filter in a full-flow system should do a very adequate job of filtering, while eliminating the possibility of major damage/wear from any larger particles.) First, I bored the NPT end of a male 1/4" NPT-to-JIC AN-8 adapter so that the NPT end has the same ID as the JIC end of the adapter, and also matches the standard (almost 3/8") ID of the 1/4" schedule 40 pipe. This will still allow me to maintain that full inside diameter all the way from the oil pump to the filter and back. I turned down part of the hex area of a 1/4" female NPT-to-JIC AN-8 adapter to provide more clearance from an adjacent adapter: The net effect of the adapter changes will be to lower everything just enough to allow me to pull the valve compartment cover straight out, without having to maneuver it over the tubing, and it will also move the tubing a little farther away from the exhaust manifold. Here's a loose/dry fit-up just to get a general idea of how the fittings should work with each other: I'm about halfway through reassembling the transmission, which I'm totally rebuilding, but I'm waiting for a snap ring to arrive. It can be a little frustrating to get hung up by such a seemingly minor part, but the groove width and diameter are kind of unusual, so 'standard' inch sizes wouldn't work properly. I finally found a metric heavy-duty retaining ring that should be a good fit, both in terms of diameter and thickness. I'm also still in the process of making a couple of upgrades to the engine valves and connecting rods, beyond what the machine shop did for me. More on that later.

I do that ..... after derusting my tractor parts. Just strain out the big chunks of rust.

Added a receiver hitch to the rear of my RJ-59 to attach a garbage can hauler. I have a very steep driveway and at 66 it is difficult to get the heavy trash cans to the curb. Worked better than expected and I still get joy out of driving my grandfather's tractor he purchased new. BTW this is how I learned to drive!