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953 or 1054 Go get it.

We see a lot of questions regarding faltering engines under load. Heat sink problems. Testing procedures for ignitions. These two videos show some very good information about the subject. The first one, about the spark plug gaps, gets particularly intuitive around the halfway point.

Was fortunate enough to be first in line to get this on the weekend. Good shape - light surface rust only - PO said stored inside. Tires all hold air although showing their age. Really good score. Is this a model UW-643 or the 7-2211 The only way to tell is by the decal style. There is no serial number plate. And what's the deal with that decal. I could count on one hand the number of times I've seen it.

3 speed, hydraulic lift, lots of ground clearance, super heavy duty frame and front axle. What’s not to love?

Marketplace listed.. what model? Seller asking $200.00. Hasent Ran in years, needs carb rebuild, always been in same family ad states.

Lowell told me he’ll waive the shipping if you stop by their place and pick up your order.

September 14, 1964, the Kellogg’s Company begins selling the Pop-Tart. The innovative portable-breakfast-treat-turned-anytime-snack would go on to sell billions annually and help redefine the breakfast food market.

Did some more today exhaust and fuel line and throttle is hooked up that's all done now time to put the battery in and put some fuel in and see if this old commando will come to life

The biggest troublemaker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every mornin’.

Not sure this is good for the deck though.... KEVIN!!! https://www.facebook.com/reel/2833060297040424

Sounds more like an issue with the shift forks. They are located at the top of the transmission and are the first thing to get a little rusty if the shifter rubber boot is damaged/missing allowing water to get in there. Have you checked the transmission fluid to see if it is milky looking from water. Also with the shifter feeling woobly, that suggest the dog point set screw that holds the shifter might need to be tightened up a little. if its not holding the shifter ball in the right place that might affect shifting. After adjusting the dog point set screw, if its still hard to shift, I would fill the transmission the rest of the way brim full with diesel and work the shifter like a 100 time to work any rust off them.

Why do cowboys ride horses? Because they're too heavy to carry. What's the hardest thing about learning to ride a horse? The ground.

The D250 are a re-branded german tractor--- Gutbrod. I doubt any C series or D160-200 implements would fit without extensive modification one is being parted out maybe he has attachments???

Seems like I have seen one or two of them someplace, go get it-put it on the rotisserie and have some fun with it.

Fl tractor. This will make a good project for you. Take your time with it. Enjoy it when it is done.

Closing the plug gap may get it running TEMPORARILY. There will be a loss of power due to incomplete combustion, unburned fuel can wash the cylinder wall lubrication if the bad plug isn't replaced promptly.

With the modern PT we were told to expect replacement of the deck between 7 and 10 years - or less. Maybe this ATV guy is on to something protecting his deck with a coating of rubber.

I used some brush on truck bed liner several years ago (probably 8 or 9) and it has held up well.

Now you have given @Pullstart some more ideas he didn't need.

WH parts and more should have rebuild kits for the trans too

That's one way to do it, I guess. Doubt it would work with our tractors.

Belts are listed on this page. Click on the fuzzy picture of the manual

Just thinking with the centered front PTO on the D-250. Could be a vertical engine deck or blower might be easier to adapt than the side drive 300 series. Those attachments are usually dirt cheap when they are sold.

thanks - - very informative -- just wish he would speak just a bit slower --- i'm going to send a long to my grandsons for their lesson of the day - haha

Is it on the trailer yet? What are you waiting for

Good news / bad news? We already bought the pedal assembly… so there’s that. I pushed the truck inside today and looked underneath. Tires roll, driveshaft doesn’t spin. Rear end issue, not trans. We’ll probably go through with the trans swap anyway, we’ve thought about that for a long time.

How did this project ever turn out?

I’ve done that, even for drilling holes in the ceiling joists or loft joists for the pool shed. Sometimes I use a 2x4 as a pry jack instead of hydraulic pressure though. Lots of catching up on this thread, so I started from the beginning. Most of the issues are taken care of through to process, but one I wanted to mention was the frame stretch and flat bed planning. My 9’ deck insert for Norman has been able to haul lots, and the frame is the stock length still. I think maybe that’s an over think EB and you’d be just fine slapping a 9’ flat bed on your stock frame. Just a thought… and make it wide enough for two C series machines. Easy peasy.

Little bit of a flea market haul from the show too.

Couple shots from @JCM & @Raven 's Annual North Berwick Meet n Greet.

Why does an elephant wear tennies? Nineys are too small and elevenies are too big.

I wouldn't use it. The seller needs to refund your money and file a transportation damage claim. If they won't oblige, report to (ebay?) and file a claim.

What do you call cattle wearing wheeled shoes? Rolling stock.

Bought my wife a Bull Dog for her birthday. She made me take it back. Said it barked funny.

September 13, 1969 "Scooby-Doo Where are You" by Hanna-Barbera debuts on CBS in the US.

It was a great show even if the starter went out of the raider 1/2 through the day! Didn’t get enough pictures now that I looked

Today was another shining example that there are still decent people in this world. While setting for lunch I got a phonecall from Rick Libby. Rear axle done. Truck ready to be picked up so I can install rear lamps and splash guards along with whatever other State Inspection work I find it needs. I said, "Do you have the dollar amount?" Now - let's go over what was done. A BUNCH of cleaning and rust removal. ALL NEW PARTS installed in the entire axle. Center carrier. Change from open Ford to Auburn posi. New bearings pressed in. New ring and pinion. All special tools and knowledge type work. Also: New brakes including all hardware. New U joints. Transfer case rear seal. We have no actual information on how much time he put in. I'm 99% sure it was at LEAST 8 to 10 hours over the 4 weeks he had the truck. Honestly... could be double that. Easy! I was seriously figuring on a minimum count of 20 hours. He billed me for FOUR hours. I had to ask twice if he was OK with that. Turns out.... he was using my old Ford as therapy. Nostalgia. Enjoyment. So it's scheduled to be towed back up here tomorrow morning. Next steps will be rear lights and swapping the alternator type. This diagram is for my own notes.

This evening we finished cleaning the cable ends. I built a new positive cable from solenoid to starter. Degreased the starter and engine block where the cables attach. Installed a NOS Cole Hersee solenoid from my parts department. Added a new battery hold down. Used a primer bulb to dump a little gasoline into the carburetor bowl through the upper vent. At that point the ole beast started right up.... and the alternator started smoking. No worries there. I knew that was a high probability. I have a new HD alternator set aside with a new wiring harness. The truck is setting in the front yard waiting to be towed to the repair shop tomorrow.

Considering, I can catch up to my tractors in high range and 3rd gear in a fast walk… I’m pretty sure they’re not fast enough to do that. Well… on second thought maybe the Command powered 23hp C-85 might be though.😁

@CRF857 been doing hot sun / lubrication for years , number one thing is totally cleaning out any debris , trapped , grass , personally use a 2 stage soak in , like a chain and cable spray , macs , napa, totally soak down and heat bake , for hours , set up mine for best all day , sun angle , move as needed , then over spray , with the heavier open gear oil , you can easily experiment , I also winter store my decks like this , so that lubrication , becomes imbedded into the metal , was just checking the specs on your lube , possible , but its the lighter initial hot soak in , that sets the foundation , of rust free, pete

Pop tarts and Tang... ah yes, breakfast of champions in my youth...

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/7207-bearing/

Happy Birthday

You have 2 choices for ridgid mounting. One is to purchase the Ebay available CNC machined ones ( I have a used set on a C81 - works great). Or measure the gap from the underside of the plate to the top of the frame & fill it with solid spacers of your making.... IMHO - replacing soggy useless laminated mounts with the same is a waste of time & money.

How do I get higher RPMs governor Wheel Horse 414–8 Magnum Kohler 14 The question you are asking runs counter to the purpose of the governor. The attached manual has a step by step adjustment process. Try moving the rod that is presently in the sixth hole to the third hole and see if it becomes more responsive. To adjust the mechanical governor on a Kohler engine follow these steps. Turn off the engine: Ensure the engine is completely off and cool before working on the linkage. Set throttle to wide open: Move your equipment's speed control lever to the fast or high-speed position so the carburetor throttle butterfly is pushed completely open. the governor arm nut: Find the bolt or nut that clamps the governor arm to the metal cross shaft coming out of the engine block. Loosen it just enough so the arm can rotate freely on the shaft. Rotate the governor shaft: Hold the carburetor throttle wide open, then rotate the governor cross shaft as far as it will go in the direction that pulls the throttle open until it bottoms out and stops. Tighten the clamp nut: While holding the carburetor wide open and the governor shaft fully rotated to its stop position, securely tighten the clamping nut or bolt on the governor arm. Torque it down properly (typically around 60 inch-pounds if using a torque wrench) With this understanding, here’s how to check the governor. Manually move the governor arm/throttle lever back and forth between the stops. Observe the amount of movement and the tension on the governor spring. Detach the spring from the governor arm. Position the governor arm/throttle in the middle and start the engine. Gradually adjust the governor arm to slow down and speed up the engine. As the engine speed rises, you should notice an increase in tension on the governor arm, and as the engine speed drops, the tension should decrease. If there is no tension at all, the governor is likely faulty, and the engine will need to be disassembled for inspection. The primary purpose of the governor on a Kohler air-cooled engine is to maintain a constant engine speed (RPM) under varying workloads. It is not to speed the engine up; the governor's role is to attempt to slow the engine down. The faster the engine runs, the more pressure is exerted on the governor shaft (in the engine) and arm. The point at which the force from the governor (trying to slow the engine) matches the force from the governor spring (trying to speed the engine up) and maintains a steady engine speed is referred to as the governed speed. When you use equipment like a lawnmower, tractor, or generator, the engine encounters different levels of resistance (such as hitting tall grass or drawing an electrical load). The governor automatically adjusts the throttle to keep the engine running at its optimal speed, preventing it from stalling or over-speeding. When the governor detects Load Changes its RPM naturally starts to drop. The governor senses this drop in speed and automatically opens the throttle valve to let in more fuel and air, restoring the engine to its target speed. Conversely, if the load is suddenly removed, the engine speed will rapidly increase. The governor responds by closing the throttle to prevent catastrophic internal engine damage from over-revving. Kohler’s mechanical (Centrifugal) Governor: Uses internal flyweights attached to a gear inside the engine. As the engine spins, centrifugal force moves the weights, which act on a shaft and linkage connected to the carburetor throttle. When the engine is off, the governor spring keeps the throttle in the wide-open position. Upon starting the engine, the governor, which consists of a centrifugal weight inside the engine, begins to spin. Centrifugal force pushes a weight outward, applying pressure on the governor shaft and causing it to turn. The governor arm, connected to the governor shaft outside the engine, also moves. With this understanding, here’s how to check the governor. Manually move the governor arm/throttle lever back and forth between the stops. Observe the amount of movement and the tension on the governor spring. Detach the spring from the governor arm. Position the governor arm/throttle in the middle and start the engine. Gradually adjust the governor arm to slow down and speed up the engine. As the engine speed rises, you should notice an increase in tension on the governor arm, and as the engine speed drops, the tension should decrease. If there is no tension at all, the governor is likely faulty, and the engine will need to be disassembled for inspection.